Move, new 9b/+ by Adam Ondraby Björn Pohl - UKC Aug/2013
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The other day, Adam Ondra made the first ascent of yet another super hard route in the Hanshelleren at Flatanger, Norway.
After I finished off Iron Curtain, I went straight into this project. Not because it was the easiest one to pick, not because it is the best line in the cave (but would be the best line in thousands other places), but because I wanted to prove to myeself that I can climb in the roof and that I have acquired some biceps power in the last years.
The route is 55 meters long and can be divided into three parts - 20 meters of 8b leads to huge knee-bar (in common with Nordic Flower), another 20 meters of 8c+/9a leads to uncomfortable knee-bar (up to here 9a). There is right exit variation from Seb Bouin, that climbs huge juggy flakes to the left (7b+ on itself), making it "Little Badder" 9a. Wheras my line just goes straight and involves very bouldery and intense 9a of about 12 meters.
I had a sophisticated approach - to climb the whole route is extremely tiring and at the begining it would be impossible to get even close on the last part. That is why I installed three fix ropes and started either from two thrirds, half way up or one third. After I did all these links, I finally did the route second try from the bottom the last day of my trip in windy and sticky conditions.
I did the route after two weeks and half of work, which slightly disapponiting, as I was sure it was gonna be 9b+. But if I bear in mind the fact that it is not my style, I have too much doubts to give it 9b+ even though I think Change might have a been even tiny notch easier (I worked Change much longer, but now I feel stronger). So I give it 9b/b+ or just hard 9b, whatever one prefers.
Now I am charging the batteries and I am off to Flatanger for another 2 or 3 weeks in September, before the school starts, so let's see what is going to happen.
Let's see indeed!
Her is a video of Adam working the route:
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