Rebecca Kinghorn (14) climbs Daniboy 8a

by Scott K Oct/2013
This news story has been read 8,048 times

14 year old GB junior climbing team member Rebecca Kinghorn has recently returned from a very successful trip to Kalymnos where she red pointed Daniboy 8a. This is Rebecca's first 8a and is generally regarded as a testing 8a and unlikely to be down graded. It marked the end of a great holiday where she also managed a quick ascent of Priapos 7c. Rebecca is the youngest Scottish female to climb this grade.

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+Rebecca cutting loose going through the roof on Daniboy, 176 kb
Rebecca cutting loose going through the roof on Daniboy
Scott K, Oct 2013
© John Donaldson/Scott Kinghorn

Rebecca worked the route over 2 days, managing 3 attempts per day as her fingers were getting trashed. She then took a day off and returned the following day. The first attempt was going well until she missed the crux move. She got back on and climbed to the top. she was looking very fresh and said that she hadnt been pumped at all-a good sign. She then rested and had another go but came off lower down. Still feeling fresh, she decided to rest and try again.

On the third attempt the rest of our group had gone and there were only 5 Swedish guys and a couple of German girls at the sector. Rebecca climbed through the roof easily and then powered through the crux, she clipped and had a shake and then climbed easily to the top. There were cheers and congratulations from the other climbers and her smile looked like it was going to last a while!!
Being quite small, Rebecca had to work out a slightly different sequence on the route. She is too small to get the knee bars and the crux move is too far. She found a tiny crimp out to the right which allowed her to then bump through for the good pocket.

+Rebecca lowering off Priapus, 56 kb
Rebecca lowering off Priapus
Scott K, Oct 2013
© John Donaldson/Scott Kinghorn

Due to commitments with the GB junior climbing team, training and where she is based, this was Rebecca's first outdoor climbing this year.

Rebecca is sponsored by: Beta Climbing Designs, The Marcliffe at Pitfodels and the Robertson Trust.

Forums ( Read More... | 27 comments, 01 Nov 2013 )
In Rebecca's case she is almost 5' tall so it has an impact but this must be balanced with the fact that she is light, has great power to weight and incredibly strong hands. I know on some routes I struggle to reach a...
Scott K - 01 Nov 2013

Some moves suit smaller climbers, some moves suit taller climbers. These pretty much balance out, though, because the reasons some moves suit smaller climbere are usually more subtle and less obvious, there is a common...
Robert Durran - 01 Nov 2013

I'm not really sure what I don't 'get', but then it is late. A taller climber being disadvantaged by longer (less efficient) levers is not much different to a shorter climber being disadvantaged by lack of reach. They...
fil - 01 Nov 2013

Please give one specific difference. Of course I'm always looking for excuses, because I badly need them, but this one is perfectly valid and I'm not talking rubbish. Seriously, it does get really, really boring...
Robert Durran - 31 Oct 2013

I think you'll find there's quite a lot of difference between a duck, Rob. Anyway, you're talking rubbish. If you can just reach past moves then it's easier. If you can't climb steep rock, you're just not strong enough...
jon - 31 Oct 2013

In those taller than the average you could make that argument but we are talking here about the disparity between someone who is shorter than average, so most people are taller. Also, with the right training you can...
fil - 31 Oct 2013

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