16 year old Giuliano Cameroni has repeated David Graham's The Story of Two Worlds, ~8C, on the Dreamtime boulder at Cresciano in Ticino, Switzerland.
Giuliano is a local from Montagnola, not far from Lugano, in the southern most part of Ticino. He was kind enough to tell us about his ascent:
Well, about a month ago I just made some tries just for fun when there where much pads. But Tuesday, 28 January after falling down another time on the last hard move of Dreamtime, I decided to try the story: I almost did the first part!
Sunday, 2nd of February it was almost completely wet, but the holds of the first part were dry, so I could climb from the sit to the 4th move of the Dagger (the end was unclimbable, too wet). Super psyched! I said to myself that if with bad conditions I could climb until there, with more grip it was for sure possible.
So this morning[9 February] we dried the problem (the end was wet) and at 3 o'clock it was ok.
After two tries where I fell down at the end, because I slipped, the 3rd go was the good one. On the first and the second go, the end was a little humid but climbable, but, luckily on the 3rd go it was almost completely dry!!
Ah, and also I climbed REALLY FAST!
Thanks a lot Giuliano and good luck with Dreamtime!
Here is a video featuring the ascent, When he said he climbed fast, he meant it. It takes him less than a minute to reach the jugs at the end of the hard climbing!
Needless to say Giuliano is the youngest of the six climbers to have repeated The Story of Two worlds
I'd be very surprised if we don't here more about him soon...
Giuliano Cameroni is sponsored by: Five Ten and prAna
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