VIDEO: The story of 2 worlds, ~8C, by Cameroni (16)by Björn Pohl - UKC Feb/2014
This news story has been read 4,267 times
16 year old Giuliano Cameroni has repeated David Graham's The Story of Two Worlds, ~8C, on the Dreamtime boulder at Cresciano in Ticino, Switzerland.
Giuliano is a local from Montagnola, not far from Lugano, in the southern most part of Ticino. He was kind enough to tell us about his ascent:
Well, about a month ago I just made some tries just for fun when there where much pads. But Tuesday, 28 January after falling down another time on the last hard move of Dreamtime, I decided to try the story: I almost did the first part!
Sunday, 2nd of February it was almost completely wet, but the holds of the first part were dry, so I could climb from the sit to the 4th move of the Dagger (the end was unclimbable, too wet). Super psyched! I said to myself that if with bad conditions I could climb until there, with more grip it was for sure possible.
So this morning[9 February] we dried the problem (the end was wet) and at 3 o'clock it was ok.
After two tries where I fell down at the end, because I slipped, the 3rd go was the good one. On the first and the second go, the end was a little humid but climbable, but, luckily on the 3rd go it was almost completely dry!!
Ah, and also I climbed REALLY FAST!
Thanks a lot Giuliano and good luck with Dreamtime!
Here is a video featuring the ascent, When he said he climbed fast, he meant it. It takes him less than a minute to reach the jugs at the end of the hard climbing!
Needless to say Giuliano is the youngest of the six climbers to have repeated The Story of Two worlds
I'd be very surprised if we don't here more about him soon...
Britain's Shauna Coxsey managed to secure a second win in a row at the IFSC Boulder World Cup in Kazo, Japan at the weekend, just... Read more
Said Belhaj has repeated Chris Sharma's Paoichulo, 9a+, at Oliana, in Catalunya. This was the Swedish climbers hardest route to... Read more
James McHaffie has added a new E9 6c - House of Talons - to Dinas Cromlech in the Llanberis Pass. The fact that a... Read more
Jernej Kruder recently made a quick but successful trip to Ticino, Switzerland, where he climbed two ~8B+'s, the first ascent of... Read more
No, not everyone spent their Christmas holidays in Catalunya. In fact, most didn't. Here are a couple of bouldering videos from... Read more