The story of 2 worlds, ~8C, by Moroni

by Björn Pohl - UKC Feb/2014
This news story has been read 3,024 times

photo
Gabriele Moroni on Insanity of Grandeur, ~8C, Chironico, Switzerland
Björn Pohl - UKC, Dec 2013
© Moroni coll.

Gabriele Moroni has repeated Dave Graham's The Story of two worlds, ~8C, at Cresciano, Switzerland.

Dave made the first ascent in January 2005 and this was the 6th repeat after:

Dai Koyamada*
Paul Robinson
Jernej Kruder
Carlo Traversi
Giuliano Cameroni

*Dai made the 2nd ascent but then went back to do it again as he was supposed to have started on the wrong holds. He decided to start it as low as possible, creating The Story of two worlds low start and suggesting 8C+.

It took more than five years for the problem to see a second ascent, but since then it has now had six repeats in four years. The reason is of course that the beta has been refined and commonly (well..) known through videos.

Saying that, the ideal method to solve this particular problem varies quite a bit mainly depending on how tall the climber is.

This was Gabri's second 8C of the season after Insanity of Grandeur at Chironico which he climbed in December.


Gabriele Moroni is sponsored by Five Ten, E9 and Petzl


Forums ( Read More... | 1 comments, 18 Feb 2014 )
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