Prinzip Hoffnung, ~8b+ E9/10, by Fabi Buhlby Björn Pohl - UKC Mar/2014
This news story has been read 3,776 times
Fabian Buhl has made the 4th ascent of Beat Kammerlander's Prinzip Hoffnung, ~8b+E9/10, at Bürser Platte, Vorarlberg, Austria.
What's quite remarkable about this ascent is that Fabi normally doesn't climb routes at all, especially not trad routes:
After my second ankle fracture within 6 months, I was walking again, but jumping down was forbidden to me for another 3 weeks. So I searched for some alternative experience where I didn't have to jump down, therefore I started trying the trad climb from Beat Kammerlander Prinzip Hoffnung 8b+ E9-10.
Due to the reason that I hadn't climbed on a rope since two years or so, I was quite astonished when I could climb it on toprope on my second day.
From this point on I wanted to try it on lead, but I had never climbed with gear, so I didn't know how my mental strength was. But luckily I fell only once in my first try, after this I had more trust in the micro protection and could climb more relaxed, for me this was the key to the redpoint.
I was really happy, that I could climb my first 8b+ route, for me it is even nicer that it is also a trad climb and that it has such a great history. I want to thank Jacopo Larcher and Chri Bindhammer for the support and a special thanks go out to Beat for this amazing climb!
Maybe it was not the best Rehab plan ;-) but great!
It also was perfect timing, now I am allowed to jump down again ;-)
Maybe this is where I should mention that although Fabi hasn't climbed a lot of routes, he is a very accomplished boulderer with ascents of things like Dreamtime, Anam Cara, Santoku and American Gangster, to name just a few.