Prinzip Hoffnung, ~8b+ E9/10, by Fabi Buhlby Björn Pohl - UKC Mar/2014
This news story has been read 4,056 times
Fabian Buhl has made the 4th ascent of Beat Kammerlander's Prinzip Hoffnung, ~8b+E9/10, at Bürser Platte, Vorarlberg, Austria.
What's quite remarkable about this ascent is that Fabi normally doesn't climb routes at all, especially not trad routes:
After my second ankle fracture within 6 months, I was walking again, but jumping down was forbidden to me for another 3 weeks. So I searched for some alternative experience where I didn't have to jump down, therefore I started trying the trad climb from Beat Kammerlander Prinzip Hoffnung 8b+ E9-10.
Due to the reason that I hadn't climbed on a rope since two years or so, I was quite astonished when I could climb it on toprope on my second day.
From this point on I wanted to try it on lead, but I had never climbed with gear, so I didn't know how my mental strength was. But luckily I fell only once in my first try, after this I had more trust in the micro protection and could climb more relaxed, for me this was the key to the redpoint.
I was really happy, that I could climb my first 8b+ route, for me it is even nicer that it is also a trad climb and that it has such a great history. I want to thank Jacopo Larcher and Chri Bindhammer for the support and a special thanks go out to Beat for this amazing climb!
Maybe it was not the best Rehab plan ;-) but great!
It also was perfect timing, now I am allowed to jump down again ;-)
Maybe this is where I should mention that although Fabi hasn't climbed a lot of routes, he is a very accomplished boulderer with ascents of things like Dreamtime, Anam Cara, Santoku and American Gangster, to name just a few.
Tonight's Friday Night Video is another great piece of work from UKC user David Linnett of Bald Eagle Productions. Climber... Read more
Over the hill? The wrong side of 40? Too many birthdays? Age is often used as an excuse to slow down and pursue less adventurous... Read more
Fabian Buhl is the promising alpine skier, who turned boulderer, then trad climber and now multi pitch master. Always on a world... Read more
Austrian climber Alex Luger has made two impressive first ascents in the Val Ferrera valley in Switzerland, with... Read more
Fabian Buhl has made the second ascent of Alex Luger's PsychoGramm, ~8b+ trad, on the Bürser Platte at Vorarlberg,... Read more