La Toupie Carnivore assis. ~8C FA by Guillaume Glairon Mondetby Björn Pohl - UKC Mar/2014
This news story has been read 3,452 times
Guillaume Glairon Mondet has made the first ascent of La Toupie Carnivore assis, ~8C, at Rocher Saint-Germain, Fontainebleau.
Guillaume made the FA of the ~8B stand start a couple of weeks ago but wasn't done with the problem just yet.
This boulder gave me several problems I had never been confronted with:
First, this is a boulder which took me a lot of sessions to attain my goal ... But as this line, and movements are very much my style of climbing, it was almost a pleasure to go and try it...
Another problem was about the skin of my right hand, because trying the same dyno to the first bad sloper (around 30/50 on each session). So, I solve this problem by going to my project only every two days.
It took me two or three sessions to master the rest of the problem, and 8 more sessions to work only one movement. That's a long and boring process, but at the end, that was one of my best moment of climbing.
And, with lack of confidence, I tried only that one movement, without the starting move. And once from hundreds of tries, I did the move, and then topped out the boulder... but without the easiest move... But the good thing is that I knew it was possible for me!
Then, some tries latter, and good concentration, I did it!!
For the grade, my thought is 8C for the sit start, but as usual, time and repeaters will tell us...
This was Guillaume's fourth of the grade.