La Toupie Carnivore assis. ~8C FA by Guillaume Glairon Mondetby Björn Pohl - UKC Mar/2014
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Guillaume Glairon Mondet has made the first ascent of La Toupie Carnivore assis, ~8C, at Rocher Saint-Germain, Fontainebleau.
Guillaume made the FA of the ~8B stand start a couple of weeks ago but wasn't done with the problem just yet.
This boulder gave me several problems I had never been confronted with:
First, this is a boulder which took me a lot of sessions to attain my goal ... But as this line, and movements are very much my style of climbing, it was almost a pleasure to go and try it...
Another problem was about the skin of my right hand, because trying the same dyno to the first bad sloper (around 30/50 on each session). So, I solve this problem by going to my project only every two days.
It took me two or three sessions to master the rest of the problem, and 8 more sessions to work only one movement. That's a long and boring process, but at the end, that was one of my best moment of climbing.
And, with lack of confidence, I tried only that one movement, without the starting move. And once from hundreds of tries, I did the move, and then topped out the boulder... but without the easiest move... But the good thing is that I knew it was possible for me!
Then, some tries latter, and good concentration, I did it!!
For the grade, my thought is 8C for the sit start, but as usual, time and repeaters will tell us...
This was Guillaume's fourth of the grade.
Griffin Whiteside is once again back in Fontainebleau, where he, as usual, keeps ticking off hard problems. Griffin is once... Read more