La Toupie Carnivore assis. ~8C FA by Guillaume Glairon Mondetby Björn Pohl - UKC Mar/2014
This news story has been read 3,963 times
Guillaume Glairon Mondet has made the first ascent of La Toupie Carnivore assis, ~8C, at Rocher Saint-Germain, Fontainebleau.
Guillaume made the FA of the ~8B stand start a couple of weeks ago but wasn't done with the problem just yet.
This boulder gave me several problems I had never been confronted with:
First, this is a boulder which took me a lot of sessions to attain my goal ... But as this line, and movements are very much my style of climbing, it was almost a pleasure to go and try it...
Another problem was about the skin of my right hand, because trying the same dyno to the first bad sloper (around 30/50 on each session). So, I solve this problem by going to my project only every two days.
It took me two or three sessions to master the rest of the problem, and 8 more sessions to work only one movement. That's a long and boring process, but at the end, that was one of my best moment of climbing.
And, with lack of confidence, I tried only that one movement, without the starting move. And once from hundreds of tries, I did the move, and then topped out the boulder... but without the easiest move... But the good thing is that I knew it was possible for me!
Then, some tries latter, and good concentration, I did it!!
For the grade, my thought is 8C for the sit start, but as usual, time and repeaters will tell us...
This was Guillaume's fourth of the grade.
This week's Friday Night Video by Vertebrate Publishing features former British alpinist Simon McCartney talking about his... Read more
Alex Megos has made the fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's Dreamcatcher, 9a, at Squamish, Canada. Quite unexpectedly, he made the... Read more
In late February, German climber Markus Jung went to Fontainebleau for a weekend. He used his time time well and managed to... Read more
German climber Jonas Winter has repeated Vincent Pochon's The Big Island, ~8C, at Coquibus Rumont, Fontainebleau. It... Read more