Babsi Zangerl on Prinzip Hoffnung, 8b+ E9/10, Bürser Platte, Vorarlberg, Austria
Björn Pohl - UKC, Mar 2014
© Babsi Zangerl coll.
Barbara Zangerl has made the 5th over all and first female ascent of Beat Kammerlander's Prinzip Hoffnung, 8b+ E9/10, on the Bürser Platte, Vorarlberg, Austria.
Babsi just returned home from Spain where she did three 8c's in short time so she is evidently in good shape. Climbing a delicate, runout 8b+ on sketchy gear is quite a different matter however...
Babsi started out as a boulderer and quickly reached 8B before back problems more or less forced her into sport climbing. In this discipline, she has so far climbed as hard as 8c/+. The last few years, though she is still sport climbing, she has focused a bit on multi-pitching. The result: The first female ascent of the "Alpine trilogy" i.e The End of Silence, Silbergeier and Keisers neue Kleider.
What's next? Indian Creek!
How does it feel to be the best female all round climber since... ever?
When did you decide to try Prinzip Hoffnung? How long did you work it? And how was the ascent?
I also had some really close tries. My first try on lead was one of the best. But after I had one fall after another. It was like a roller coaster and went into a mental challenge.
For me the hardest thing to handle was to place the gear in the crux, to stand for a while on bad footholds and keep the tension to place the small nuts and climb the crux after.
When we arrived back home from Spain. The sun was shining the whole day and the rock warmed up during the day. I always had to wait until half past 5 in the evening. There was only time for two tries before it was dark.
So yesterday, on my first try I fell again. And in this moment I didn't feel very good. I fell on the crux because I was tired. The second try i climbed without pressure, don't thinking to send this route on this day. When I clipped the chain...it was a surprise! For sure one of the most beautiful and exciting routes I ever tried----big thanks to Beat Kammerlander!!
Now, you're heading to the US and Indian Creek soon - crack climbing. Are we to believe you are now going to climb 8b+ finger cracks?
Thanks a lot Babsi, and have fun in the US!