Hard Boulders in Font & Ireland for Dan Varian

by Duncan Campbell - UKC Apr/2014
This news story has been read 8,964 times

Dan Varian has just returned from a very successful 3-week trip to Fontainebleau in France, where he managed to climb 21 boulder problems in the 8th grade including climbing two 8B's in a single day. Dan also managed to climb two new 8A+'s on a working trip to Ireland just before heading out to Font.

+Dan climbing Amok, 8A, Rochers du Boulingy, 196 kbDan climbing Amok, 8A, Rochers du Boulingy
© Katie Mundy

Dan's list of 21 grade 8 boulder problems during his 3-week stay include:

  • Vague Patatras, 8A 
  • L'art de la Fugue, 8A 
  • Delire Oronique, 8A+ 
  • Operation Plats du Desert, 8A 
  • Toutes Peines Confidues, 8A 
  • Surplomb de la Mee (left exit), 8B
  • Theorie de Jeux, 8A+
  • Surplomb de la Mee direct assis, 8A+
  • The Tube, 8A 
  • Gecko, 8A+
  • Amok, 8A 
  • Beaux Quartiers, 8A
  • Synapses (low holds), 8A
  • Big Dragon, 8A
  • Tiger and Dragon, 8A 
  • Duel, 8A 
  • Le Tajine, 8B 
  • Londinium, 8A+ 
  • L'Apprement, 8A 
  • Millenium, 8A
  • L'aplat du gain, 8A

Dan was supposed to be heading to Albarracin but after his Ferry was cancelled he decided to head to to Font instead. Dan had a number of good days climbing with Andy Gullsten, Arjan de Kock and Marijus Šmigelskis, including a day in which he managed to climb two 8A+'s and an 8B; Surplomb de la Mee direct assis and Theorie de Jeux, also climbing the left-hand variant to Surplomb de la Mee at 8B after a hold breakage. 

Dan commented on some of the highlights of his trip:

"Doing Duel with some other good friends the day after the Surplomb day in a few tries on what was otherwise a rest day was a good feeling too (I was particularly inspired after seeing Katie wallop Beatle Juice in a clinical dispatch).

Then the next day I managed Gecko, 8A+, Beaux Quartiers, 8A, Amok, 8A, and Synapses, 8A, in a day after which we went to Rocher Canon for some more awesome blues, although on that day Amok was in full sun so that wasn't ideal."

+Dan on Tajine, 8B, Gorges du Hoax, 198 kbDan on Tajine, 8B, Gorges du Hoax
© Katie Mundy

Dan listed his favourite problems of the trip as:  Fissure d' Envers, 6C+, Scarface, 5+ at Cuvier Bellevue, Deux Temps, Trent Mouvements, 6C+, at Apremont envers, Titanique, 7B+, and Tajine, 8B, at gorges du houx.

Dan summed up his trip:

"All in all it felt great to bosh through a load of font classics as they all have such amazing movements, I love the development history there too as it has a great, vibrant, local scene, a bit like the UK really. I was a bit gutted though as this was my only font trip where I didn't accidentally bump into Mr Godoffe. I met some other really nice locals and internationals too."

+Dan on Glenn Ross, 8A+, Fairhead, 122 kbDan on Glenn Ross, 8A+, Fairhead
© Katie Mundy

In addition to his Font trip, Dan also headed to Ireland to put some Beastmaker boards up, whilst over there however, he did manage to climb a few first ascents, including two 8A+s; Glenn Ross and Game of Bones. Dan commented on the two problems:

"Glenn Ross, 8A+ish, is one of my favourite problems I've ever done as it has pure power climbing and a dabble of the odd bit of technique, it's wildly overhanging with a drop clutch helicopter swing. I also climbed Game of Bones, 8A+, (formerly the Pit Project) which involves using some rather small crimps above the eponymous pit.

A huge thanks to the Duffy family for putting us up at such short notice."

+Dan on the first ascent of Game of Bones, 8A+, Fairhead, 140 kbDan on the first ascent of Game of Bones, 8A+, Fairhead
© Katie Mundy


Dan Varian likes hanging off Beastmakers in the hope it'll make him stronger.

Dan Varian is sponsored by: Outdoor Research and Scarpa

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