Hard Boulders in Font & Ireland for Dan Varian

by Duncan Campbell - UKC Apr/2014
This news story has been read 9,562 times

Dan Varian has just returned from a very successful 3-week trip to Fontainebleau in France, where he managed to climb 21 boulder problems in the 8th grade including climbing two 8B's in a single day. Dan also managed to climb two new 8A+'s on a working trip to Ireland just before heading out to Font.

Dan climbing Amok, 8A, Rochers du Boulingy, 196 kbDan climbing Amok, 8A, Rochers du Boulingy
© Katie Mundy

Dan's list of 21 grade 8 boulder problems during his 3-week stay include:

  • Vague Patatras, 8A 
  • L'art de la Fugue, 8A 
  • Delire Oronique, 8A+ 
  • Operation Plats du Desert, 8A 
  • Toutes Peines Confidues, 8A 
  • Surplomb de la Mee (left exit), 8B
  • Theorie de Jeux, 8A+
  • Surplomb de la Mee direct assis, 8A+
  • The Tube, 8A 
  • Gecko, 8A+
  • Amok, 8A 
  • Beaux Quartiers, 8A
  • Synapses (low holds), 8A
  • Big Dragon, 8A
  • Tiger and Dragon, 8A 
  • Duel, 8A 
  • Le Tajine, 8B 
  • Londinium, 8A+ 
  • L'Apprement, 8A 
  • Millenium, 8A
  • L'aplat du gain, 8A

Dan was supposed to be heading to Albarracin but after his Ferry was cancelled he decided to head to to Font instead. Dan had a number of good days climbing with Andy Gullsten, Arjan de Kock and Marijus Šmigelskis, including a day in which he managed to climb two 8A+'s and an 8B; Surplomb de la Mee direct assis and Theorie de Jeux, also climbing the left-hand variant to Surplomb de la Mee at 8B after a hold breakage. 

Dan commented on some of the highlights of his trip:

"Doing Duel with some other good friends the day after the Surplomb day in a few tries on what was otherwise a rest day was a good feeling too (I was particularly inspired after seeing Katie wallop Beatle Juice in a clinical dispatch).

Then the next day I managed Gecko, 8A+, Beaux Quartiers, 8A, Amok, 8A, and Synapses, 8A, in a day after which we went to Rocher Canon for some more awesome blues, although on that day Amok was in full sun so that wasn't ideal."

Dan on Tajine, 8B, Gorges du Hoax, 198 kbDan on Tajine, 8B, Gorges du Hoax
© Katie Mundy

Dan listed his favourite problems of the trip as:  Fissure d' Envers, 6C+, Scarface, 5+ at Cuvier Bellevue, Deux Temps, Trent Mouvements, 6C+, at Apremont envers, Titanique, 7B+, and Tajine, 8B, at gorges du houx.

Dan summed up his trip:

"All in all it felt great to bosh through a load of font classics as they all have such amazing movements, I love the development history there too as it has a great, vibrant, local scene, a bit like the UK really. I was a bit gutted though as this was my only font trip where I didn't accidentally bump into Mr Godoffe. I met some other really nice locals and internationals too."

Dan on Glenn Ross, 8A+, Fairhead, 122 kbDan on Glenn Ross, 8A+, Fairhead
© Katie Mundy

In addition to his Font trip, Dan also headed to Ireland to put some Beastmaker boards up, whilst over there however, he did manage to climb a few first ascents, including two 8A+s; Glenn Ross and Game of Bones. Dan commented on the two problems:

"Glenn Ross, 8A+ish, is one of my favourite problems I've ever done as it has pure power climbing and a dabble of the odd bit of technique, it's wildly overhanging with a drop clutch helicopter swing. I also climbed Game of Bones, 8A+, (formerly the Pit Project) which involves using some rather small crimps above the eponymous pit.

A huge thanks to the Duffy family for putting us up at such short notice."

Dan on the first ascent of Game of Bones, 8A+, Fairhead, 140 kbDan on the first ascent of Game of Bones, 8A+, Fairhead
© Katie Mundy


Dan Varian likes hanging off Beastmakers in the hope it'll make him stronger.

Dan Varian is sponsored by: Outdoor Research and Scarpa

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