8b+ for 15 Year Old Brit Pete Dawsonby Duncan Campbell - UKC May/2014
This news story has been read 5,022 times
15 year old Pete Dawson has just had a successful trip to Spain climbing two 8b+'s with Flash Over at Margalef and Kalea Borroka at Siurana. Pete also climbed his first 8a onsight with an ascent of Font Picant at Camarasa.
Pete's first 8b+ of the trip was the Siurana classic Kalea Borroka, which Pete climbed on his second redpoint go of his second session. Impressively Pete nearly climbed the route on his first redpoint go, dropping it at the top crux and then deciding to leave it for another session. Pete commented on how it felt to climb Kalea Borroka:
"Kalea Borroka was the most amazing line I've ever done and it just felt amazing to climb it!"
Pete's second 8b+ of the trip was Flash Over, a steep pocket-pulling testpiece at Margalef, managing to climb it on his first redpoint of his second session having had mental battle with the route on his first session. Pete commented on Flash Over:
"Flash Over was really different to Kalea Borroka it was really physical and probably suited my style more, also I have to say thanks for the great encouragement I had!"
In addition to these 8b+'s, Pete climbed a number of 8bs quickly on top of many other hard redpoints during his trip. Pete also clocked up an 8a onsight with Font Picant at Camarasa. Pete commented on his first 8a onsight:
"I decided to go for the onsight not really expecting much, the moves through the crux flowed really well and I found myself above it. I dug deep and for the first time was positively talking myself through the top section in my head and it worked my first 8a onsight"
Pete's original goal for the trip was to climb 8c at Santa Linya with an ascent of Rollito Sharma. However it wasn't meant to be as after working the route, Pete couldn't get through the crux on the 8b+ section despite trying it numerous times, and unfortunately ran out of time.
Pete's ticklist of grade 8's for the trip is as follows:
Pete's brother Luke (17) was also on good form, climbing a number of 8th grade routes including Ramadan, 8b, at Siurana. Luke commented further on climbing Ramadan:
"After falling from after the crux many times, Ramadan became more of a mental battle which made completing it even better!"
Luke's climbed the following 8th grade routes during his trip:
You can read more about the boys' trip and follow Pete's climbing on his blog: ThisIsDawsome.blogspot.co.uk
Pete and Luke Dawson are sponsored by: Dewerstone Clothing