Two ~8C's in a day by Sachi Ammaby Björn Pohl - UKC May/2014
This news story has been read 5,236 times
Sachi Amma, one of the very best lead competition climbers in the world, is a decent boulderer as well. Repeating Dai Koyamada's Hydrangea, ~8C, and Babel, ~8C, both at Shiobara, isn't that bad...
I send Hydrangea V15 and Babel v14/15 both today!!! I was wondering to climb both of it someday when I was student. But everything happened today!!! I am soooooooo happy :) is what he wrote on facebook.
Hydrangea was put up by Dai in 2005 as a possible 8C+. As far as I know it has had two repeats before Sachi's, by Daniel Woods and Motochika Nagao, and the grade seems to have settled around 8C.
I don't know if Babel, which Dai opened in 2007, has seen any repeats before, but apparently Sachi found it slightly easier as he calls it 8B+/C.
Sachi Amma is sponsored by: Rokodromo and adidas
This week's Friday Night Video will please both climbers and mountain bikers. It's a quirky fusion of both activities which will... Read more
UKC Assistant Editor Natalie Berry has hit the mainstream press today following the release of the Hot Aches Productions film... Read more
Sachi Amma has repeated Bernd Zangerl's New Base Line, ~8B+, at Magic Wood/Averstal in Switzerland. New Base... Read more
Sachi Amma has repeated Adam Ondra's Jungle boogie, a pure power endurance 9a+ route just left of Biographie at... Read more