Shauna Coxsey climbing Roof of a Baby Buddha, 7C+
UKC News, Jun 2014
© Nick Brown (Outcrop Films)
This is the fifth episode in the Stone Kingdom series from Nick Brown of Outcrop Films. In this episode, current star of British Competition climbing, Shauna Coxsey and Ned Feehally head over to North Wales for a weekend of climbing before Shauna heads off for the World Cup series.
Nick Brown talks about the episode:
"Shauna is in the form of her life at the moment, obviously. We filmed this episode just before she jetted off to Chongqing for the first round of the world cup. She was allowed a couple of days of ‘fun’ before the serious season kicked off – who knows why she chose to start on Diesel Power, a notoriously crimpy 8A, requiring steely body tension and a long reach. After warming up in her Adidas football manager’s jacket, Shauna quickly despatched once she’d worked out the first move.
We headed to Maes Newyddion Woods, a vastly different landscape to Llanberis Pass near Betws y Coed. Shauna had climbed this problem before, but I’d wanted to film it for a while as it looked fantastic. The rock is almost like sandstone and features long moves between lovely pockets and edges. It turned out to be one of the most peaceful climbing areas I’ve ever been to.
Ned’s turn to climb. We walked up the pass to just underneath Dinas Mot. Chris Davies had put up Stoned Temple Pilots a while back and Ned wanted it finished. It’s a weird problem in that the bad landing chases after you, leaving an insecure feeling the back of your mind. Luckily, the hard section is at the bottom on two tiny crimps.
The main aim for Ned was to repeat another of Chris’ climbs; Compact Culture. It had been repeated by Tyler Landman at 8A+ quite a few years ago. Tom Newman had subsequently broken off a key foot, bumping up to 8B in Ned’s opinion. It now required a very hard move off a heel, a level 5 heel apparently. You’ll have to watch the video to see how smoothly Ned climbs it."