Nalle climbs Silbergeier, 8b+ MP

by Björn Pohl - UKC Jun/2014
This news story has been read 6,988 times

Close this photo
+Nalle Hukkataival on Silbergeier, 8b+ MP, Rätikon, Switzerland, 78 kb
Nalle Hukkataival on Silbergeier, 8b+ MP, Rätikon, Switzerland
Björn Pohl - UKC, Jun 2014
© Bearcam media (video stilll)

Nalle Hukkataival has teamed up with fellow Finn Tomi Nytorp and repeated Beat Kammerlander's 1993 über classic multi-pitch Silbergeier at the Kirchlispitze, Rätikon, Switzerland.

It should be said that Nalle is no stranger to highballs, but the 240m (8b, 7c+, 8a+, 7a+, 8b/+, 7c+) Silbergeier is tall even by his standards.

I climbed the whole route free on June 21st, after having checked out the pitches briefly over 3 days. Quite the experience as it was my first real multi-pitch!

Any plans to highball it now?
Ha, ha, not anytime soon...

What did you find the hardest?
Doing it all in a day for sure. I lack that kind of all-day endurance having only tried the same 6 moves on my boulder project for the last month. I only fell once and it almost cost me the send. My foot slipped past the crux on the second last and the hardest pitch. That wasted a lot of energy...

Tomi also freed most of the pitches, just taking one fall on each of the last two pitches, but kept climbing.

Nalle Hukkataival is sponsored by: Black Diamond and La Sportiva

Forums ( Read More... | 14 comments, 24 Jun 2014 )
I know of a few more rp ascents of local people who are not in the list. Of course, they go under the radar. So the route certainly has over 20 ascents by now. Still found it interesting to read about Nalle's ascent....
Cellinski - 24 Jun 2014

And that it was his first proper multipitch route. But I suppose the real 'newsworthyness' is that he reported it on his social media channels so we all heard about it and that he put a picture out into the public...
TobyA - 24 Jun 2014

The previous post did not intend to question the quality of the route or achievement. However, newsworthiness was questioned. To elaborate: This is about the 16th ascent of the route after: Kammerlander, Shaffler,...
HStudierende - 24 Jun 2014

Yes, definitely, good luck to Calum and Wiz. It's great and really inspiring to see anybody trying routes like that. The level of mental commitment to keep going and the endurance required is very impressive. If you...
Richard White - 24 Jun 2014

Silbergeier is one of my all time dream routes - i would love to climb that. Looks amazing. Might have to up the level a bit though!! One of (the best of?) the famous Alpine Trilogy. Never been climbed by a Brit...
Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 24 Jun 2014

Perhaps you operate in a much higher rarefied sphere of climbing than a punter like myself. To the vast majority of climbers this is probably quite interesting and still an inspiring achievement. Please let us know...
Richard White - 24 Jun 2014

This news story has been read 6,988 times
Return to News from June 2014
Share this article on Facebook
Share this article on Twitter