UKC

New Yorkshire Grit Development - New Boulder at the Chevin

© Will Atkinson

A new boulder has been developed at the Chevin, Yorkshire by Tom Peckitt and some friends. He got in touch to share the discovery - named the Satellite Boulder. There are nine problems ranging from 5A - 8A+.

"Since March, some friends and I have developed an incredible boulder at the Chevin, Yorkshire. It is amazing what turns up in the popular climbing areas! I have spent countless hours thrashing over moorland in search of perfect unclimbed lines, only to stumble upon this beauty a mere 10 mins drive from my house!"

Charlotte Telfer on The Geminid Trail 7A+  © Tom Peckitt
Charlotte Telfer on The Geminid Trail 7A+
© Tom Peckitt

The Satellite Boulder

Having spent much time exploring the far flung reaches of Yorkshire (and beyond) to discover the perfect undeveloped boulder, one day in March 2014 I thought I’d investigate a bit closer to home and trawl the stretch between Caley Crags and East Chevin. A successful discovery seemed remote but the area is ten minutes drive from my house so it was worth a shot, just in case. I met up with Bingley legend (turned Peak defector) Martin Smith and my non-climber friend Dan who was walking his dog in the area. Expectations were low. However, within ten minutes we spotted a looming shadow up on the hillside.

Tom Peckitt on Stasis Interrupted 8A+  © Rupert Tasker
Tom Peckitt on Stasis Interrupted 8A+
© Rupert Tasker

Our jaws hit the floor once we realised what we had stumbled upon – a huge perfectly overhanging face of grit with what looked like multiple unclimbed prime lines. The unusual boulder appeared to be imported directly from Switzerland and covertly placed in the heart of Yorkshire bouldering territory. No doubt this glorious anomaly had been ‘discovered’ before but why had it not been recorded? Why was it so neglected? How could such a stunning block with obvious potential remain untouched in one of the most popular climbing destinations in the UK?

Many days and much painstaking effort, with the help of Andrew Emery, was spent meticulously, perhaps obsessively, cleaning the boulder to reveal the bounty underneath. We also landscaped the unstable slope below to create consolidated landing zones.

There was evidence of a previous pioneer, in the form of a ladder and cleaning paraphernalia stashed under the boulder. However, the face was soaking wet and covered in moss, giving the appearance that at least the harder lines had been remained untouched. Perhaps someone had found it and intended to return but never did?

As word of this exciting development has recently diffused, I’ve discovered who the mysterious developer is - a keen and highly capable local activist called Matt Wilcox. His search efforts reaped dividends about two years ago when he too stumbled upon the boulder with friend, Simon Marson. Matt and Simon used the cover of darkness to clean and climb a couple of the gobsmackingly quality lines; Under a Full Moon (7C+) and The Geminid Trial (7A+).

The Geminid Trail 7A+  © Tom Peckitt
The Geminid Trail 7A+
© Tom Peckitt

The north-facing boulder protrudes from the dank hillside and can suffer from seepage, thus staying wet for days on end and providing a home for a community of slugs. This does mean that, if left unattended for several months, it returns to a mossy stasis.  It is best to visit after a dry spell and with a breeze to make the most of a visit but please be careful of climbing on damp holds to minimise erosion and potential for hold breakage. Saying that, more traffic should keep the boulder fairly clean and repel natures attempt to conceal it once more – so get to it!

Matt Wilcox on Under Full Moon 7C+  © Will Atkinson
Matt Wilcox on Under Full Moon 7C+
© Will Atkinson

The final project, Titan (8A+ ish) was dispatched last Sunday, the first day of decent grit conditions this season. So, after months of recent activity it’s ready to reveal and whip up some interest to keep the boulder in a climbable state. There are nine problems (more if you just do the stand-up versions) in total ranging from 5A to around 8A+.  The grades are a bit of a stab to be honest but will settle after some repeats. Four of these, in the harder echelons, are truly of the highest quality and surely worthy of classic status.

Tom Peckitt on Under a Full Moon 7C+  © Will Atkinson
Tom Peckitt on Under a Full Moon 7C+
© Will Atkinson

I’m aghast that a boulder of such excellence in one of the most climbed areas in the country has dipped under the radar until now. Caley’s gravity pulls in the masses time after time, perhaps blinkering vision of what may be in orbit just minutes away. Who knows what else is out there!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A topo of the boulder can be downloaded here.

Watch the videos below of the Easy and Hard circuits.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tom is sponsored by: Banana Fingers, City Bloc, Evolv, Metolius and prAna


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20 Oct, 2014
This looks amazing. What a great find.
21 Oct, 2014
Nice article, looks excellent.
21 Oct, 2014
Well done, and thanks for the really got topo, Its one of the best topos I have seen.
23 Oct, 2014
Had a look at the block today and it looks better in real life. It sucks that it's currently wet.
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