UKC

Dreamcatcher, 9a, in a day by Alex Megos

© Ken Etzel

Alex Megos on Dreamcatcher, 9a, Squamish, Canada  © Ken Etzel
Alex Megos on Dreamcatcher, 9a, Squamish, Canada
© Ken Etzel
Alex Megos has made the fourth ascent of Chris Sharma's Dreamcatcher, 9a, at Squamish, Canada. Quite unexpectedly, he made the quickest ascent to date. He did it in a day.

This was the only route I knew when I came to Canada! And today I grabbed the 4th ascent of it in one day! "Dreamcatcher" 5.14d (9a)!!! Super stoked to have climbed this world class route! One of the best of all time!

The route was bolted by Sharma and Sonnie Trotter in 2005 and the first ascent was made in September that year. It has since been repeated by Sean McColl (2009) and Ben Harnden (2012).

 


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Alex has risen quickly through the ranks of German climbers to become a globetrotting superstar of the modern climbing scene. His phenomenal sport climbing achievements place him as one of the most important climbers of...

Alex's Athlete Page 92 posts 12 videos



28 Aug, 2016
I thought for a moment that Ondra should be on the list of ascentionists but checked and found that he made a flash attempt in 2015 but didn't finish it. Awesome looking route. Whenever I see a photo of it, I can never quite tell which way is up!
29 Aug, 2016
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UlcQ3mxlNfs https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8cFdX1ypCXA https://vimeo.com/119887141 Ondra does the move to the rail statically... but then looks less comfortable on it.
29 Aug, 2016
Unsurprising I guess if on a flash attempt. But yes a stunning line, unusually for a sport route!
29 Aug, 2016
What an amazing effort to do this in one day. Video of Megos ascent - https://vimeo.com/180455358 As an aside - I thought clipping the chains was essential for having completed the route? Surely not a "send" if there is (what appears to be) two 12" QD's end-to-end hanging from the chains - especially when there appears to be a clearly defined tick on a finishing hold that Megos did not reach? Its an honest question...
29 Aug, 2016
You're so bloody right, Kid Parkinson. This little coward simply omitted the evident crux of this route, which, with any doubts included in a distant analysis, seems to reach a solid 12 sup. level (Australian scale of course). But he looked so pumped all along the ascent that he surely would have failed in that definite step!
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