The 30 year old from Switzerland, recently soloed the Eiger Nordwand (3970m) in a record time of 3:54 this February, and is known for his lightweight approach and is a long-time critic of supplemental oxygen.
In 2004 he made the first solo ascent of Cholatse's (6335m) north face (ca. 1500m) and then climbed Taboche's (6501m) east face, back to back.
For a full report by Erik Lambert visit: Alpinist.com
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