User Comments
Superb climb.
Tony Marr - 04/Aug/14
The gear look pre 1981 by about 20 years?
Stu Tyrrell - 04/Aug/14
Hi Stu,
I can confirm that the gear was cutting edge in 1981, Whillans harness, rack of Friends and Hexes. I wouldn't have liked to lead this route with 1961 gear [I started climbing in 1958 so I remember what gear we had, or should I say didn't have]. No harnesses, the rope was tied directly around your waist. No camming devices or Hexes...we made do by jamming the knot of a sling into crack, but this didn't work in parallel cracks like this route. Drilled out engineering nuts were starting to be used around the early sixties, but again they had there limitations. Generally speaking, lead climbing was a very hazardous activity compared to today.
I'm still active and enjoying it but, its only because of modern equipment!
Tony Marr - 06/Aug/14
I can confirm that the gear was cutting edge in 1981, Whillans harness, rack of Friends and Hexes. I wouldn't have liked to lead this route with 1961 gear [I started climbing in 1958 so I remember what gear we had, or should I say didn't have]. No harnesses, the rope was tied directly around your waist. No camming devices or Hexes...we made do by jamming the knot of a sling into crack, but this didn't work in parallel cracks like this route. Drilled out engineering nuts were starting to be used around the early sixties, but again they had there limitations. Generally speaking, lead climbing was a very hazardous activity compared to today.
I'm still active and enjoying it but, its only because of modern equipment!
Yes you are right, my old memory plays tricks on me!!
Stu Tyrrell - 06/Aug/14