A guide to the best granite rock routes graded 6b or below in the Mont Blanc Massif...
Chamonix is most famous as a destination for bagging summits or mixed routes, but it is equally home to lots of high-quality Alpine granite rock climbs in a glacial setting, the likes of which cannot be found anywhere else in the Alps.
This alone is more than enough of a reason for a trip to the area and can often provide climbing of a much lower stress level than a lot of the snow plods and mixed routes in the area, albeit with a higher physical and technical demand.
© Luke Davies
This is the first of a two-part series looking at some of the classic crags and routes in the Mont Blanc Massif that fall into this 'Alpine rock' genre, with the aim of giving people some inspiration and ideas of what is out there if they are looking for this kind of day out.
By Alpine Rock, I mean pure granite rock climbing routes that have bolted belays, but the pitches are trad protected on the whole (often with some bolts when run out), where the descent is most commonly abseiling down the route. Alpine cragging.
The Mont Blanc Massif doesn't have a huge selection of pure alpine rock routes below 5c (HVS) and the top end of this list, 6b/+, roughly translates to E2/3 – so many of the routes fall into the Hard Rock realms of difficulty. However, this should not be considered a hard and fast comparison due to the fact that the granite climbing in the Massif tends to be less reliant on finger strength than in the UK and good slab and crack technique and general body strength can get you quite a long way.
I will divide the routes into day-hittable and overnight options to help with ideas of logistics and go by crag. Be aware that some of these routes are a lot bigger propositions than others at the same grade, which isn't necessarily reflected in this article.
Day Hits
A lot of the routes in this section are very popular and by nature should be doable lift to lift in a day, therefore they will tend to be centered around the Midi, Plan de l'Aiguille and Skyway lifts.
Aiguille du Midi
Midi South Face
The classic easy-to-approach alpine crag. Either walk round to the base and carry your glacier gear or scramble up to the summit and abseil in and hope you get down before those walking round. There are several classic routes here that fit our criteria and some that get exceptionally busy...
Rébuffat-Baquet (TD+ 6a) (6a+): Probably the most famous route in the whole article, and the busiest...
Voie Kohlmann (TD+ 6a+) (6a+/6c): Most people climb this with a point of aid bringing it down to 6a+, but free it has a move of 6c. Cool upper corner pitches.
Claire du Lune (TD 6a+) (6a+): New route that has a fantastic hand crack in its upper half. Makes a good (but harder – 6b+ish) combo with the start of Jules de Chez Smith and the upper part of this route.
© Luke Davies
© Luke Davies
La Dame du Lac (ED1 6b+) (6b+): one of the most consistent routes on the face where every pitch has interest around 6b – a great route.
Éperon des Cosmiques
The slightly smaller neighbour to the Midi South Face has some good, classic routes on it, with the added excitement of finishing up the Cosmiques Ridge at the end.
Rebuffat-Pierre (TD- 6a+) (6a+): the other classic Rébuffat route has a nice juggy roof pitch.
Guiffra-Monaci (TD 6b) (6a): Nice varied slab and crack climbing on the left hand side of the buttress.
Pointe Lachenal
The south face of Pointe Lachenal is hidden from the Midi but has fantastic, quick-drying granite routes that are often climbable from spring onwards.
Contamine Route (TD 6a+)(6a+): One of the best routes of its grade in the massif!
Harold et Maud (TD+ 6b) (6b): the neighbouring route has a steep punchy crux crack pitch.
Plan de L'Aiguille:
Peigne
This mountain has three 'crag' areas: the easy to approach, but large, Gendarme Rouge, the Upper Buttress that is approached from the normal route, and the Slabs of the Peigne.
Contamine-Vaucher (TD 6a) (6a): A bit old school and thrutchy, but definitely worthwhile following obvious features up the Gendarme Rouge.
Le Maillon Manquant (ED1 6b+) (6b+/7b): a fantastic neighbouring route with a selection of brilliant crack pitches mostly at 6b+ with a point of aid.
North Ridge (TD 6a+) (6a+): a bit alpine so nearly missing the cut – this climbs the upper buttress of the Peigne via some old school thrutching!
© Luke Davies
Les Lépidoptères (D 5b) (5b): a rare easy route that is on the right side of the Peigne slabs, could be linked into one of the routes on the upper buttress.
Le Ticket, le Carré, le Rond et la Lune (TD+ 6b) (6b+): one of the quintessential Piola slab routes of the Massif - an amazing, slightly run out, route.
Red Pillar Of The Blaitiere
One of the classic alpine cragging spots with a good coverage of great routes, a relatively easy approach, and great rock quality.
Nabot-Léon (TD- 5c) (5c): classic easier route with iconic slab.
Les Diamants du President (TD 6a+) (6a+): good thrutchy climbing up cracks and a chimney.
Tsarmania (TD+ 6b) (6b): newer route that is pretty sustained at 6a/b on the right of the buttress.
© Luke Davies
Osez Joséphine (TD 6a) (6a+): a continuation above the main red pillar with a nice crack pitch.
Majorette Thatcher (TD+ 6b+) (6b+): classic crack climbing at the upper end of this list and maybe the best route of the crag.
© Luke Davies
Skyway:
Whilst possible to reach this sector from the Panoramique lift, doing any of these routes to and from the Panoramique will be pushing it, so it is more common to day-hit from the Skyway, which has a longer schedule.
Pointe Adolphe Rey
The first of the rocky satellite peaks reached when walking from the Skyway lift has loads of rock routes on it, but many are quite hard.
Salluard Route (TD- 6a) (6a+): the classic easy route on the eastern end. Mostly easier but with one harder pitch up a cracked headwall.
© Luke Davies
Voie Gervasutti (TD+ 6a+) (6a): the other classic easy route follows prominent corner systems.
Bettembourg-Thivierge (TD+ 6b) (6b+): a nice route following prominent groove line in the middle of the face – a harder pitch is now at the start due to glacial recession that can be aided.
Le Corsaire (ED1 6b+) (6b+): the neighboring route to the above has more slab climbing put up by the Swiss Remi bros.
Roi du Siam/Petit Capucin
These two peaks are very close together and the next in the chain of satellites. They have a few nice easier rock routes on them.
Le Lifting du Roi (D+ 5c) (5c): an easier route that borders on the realms of alpine scrambling but a nice way to reach the summit.
East Face/Voie Gervasutti (5c): similar to the above but goes to the top of the Petit Capucin.
Petit Capoussin (ED1) (6b): a modern crack climbing alternative.
Chandelle
This summit is in the shadow of the huge Grand Capucin but has fantastic climbing on it.
Bonatti-Tabou (TD+ 6b+)(6b+): A combination of the routes Tabou and Bonatti-Galeini takes a direct line up the buttress and the easier climbing – a classic at the grade in the Massif!
Other:
Parete dei Titani
A series of compact, granite crags that are accessible from the valley floor in Val Ferret in a day and have a range of granite climbs, many bolted.
C'est Facile (Genepy) (5c) and Voilá l'éte (Genepy II) (6a) (5c/6a): the classic, plaisir options on the first crag provide an easy day out in a beautiful setting.
Venus (6b+) (6b+): the classic of the crag with some stiff slab climbing and a steeper upper part.
© Luke Davies
Aiguille Croux
This crag is only really day-hittable for fit and fast teams and even for them it will be a big day out. For most, it is better to do it as an overnight in the Monzino and climb two different routes.
Voie Ottoz-Hurzeler (TD) (5c/6a): classic, old route of the crag, long and amenable grades.
Viste Guidee (TD+) (6b): harder more direct route that doesn't go to the summit.
Overnights
Routes in this section will often involve a significant approach time or be of a longer length, where staying in a hut for a night before or after can be beneficial and allow you to get the most out of an area. Often you can walk in and climb a route in the same day (with careful route choice) with a late finish and then climb a route the next and walk out.
Torino:
Grand Capucin
The most iconic destination for Alpine rock climbing in the massif is a spectacular mini peak and a definite must to climb. There aren't many easier routes and it is more reknown for those operating in the upper grade ranges but there are two easier classics.
Swiss Route (TD+ 6b+) (6b+): classic route that starts up the lefthand couloir and climbs the left of the pinnacle with a section of A0 near the top.
O Sole Mio (ED1 6b+) (6b): the neighbouring route is a Piola classic and many people end up doing a combo of the two to avoid the aid.
Clocher du Tacul
A less-travelled satellite of the Tacul that sits furthest away from the Skyway mostly has routes above the grade range here but has some classics that are worth doing if staying over in the area.
• Boivin Route (TD+ 6b) (6b): classic route on the Red Pillar of the Clocher that features nice, varied climbing.
Talèfre:
Moine
The east face of the Moine is one of the few rock climbing destinations in this basin and is home to an old school classic.
Voie Contamine - Labrunie (TD 6a+) (6a): very non-continuous with the hard climbing at the start and a more mountaineering style finish but a nice, long route to a summit.
Leschaux:
Petites Jorasses
The West Face of the Petites Jorasses is 600m tall and a big undertaking that verges more into the grande course category of climbs. However, there is one modern route here that would provide a good outing for people operating at the upper end of the grade range in the article.
Anouk (ED1 6c) (6b+): a classic Piola route featuring brilliantly-positioned slab climbing and a line that breaches the dramatic roofs that cap the face at mid-height.
Pierre Joseph
The many different rock bastions of the Aiguille Pierre Joseph are easily reached behind the Leschaux hut from the balcon paths and provide mid-sized routes that are rarely busy. There are many here in the grade range, below are some of the better ones.
Comte Engelmann (TD 5c) (5c): classic easier route of the sector with nice climbing.
Nonchalance d'Iguane Combo (TD+ 6b) (6b): good crack climbing that avoids some of the harder climbing of the individual routes.
Charpoua:
Flammes de Pierre
The Flammes de Pierre is the premier spot for granite cragging in the Charpoua and is abnormally steep for a granite crag. Therefore it does not have many easier routes – only one for this article.
Joyau et le Lotus (TD 6a+) (6a+): the western ridge of the Flammes de Pierre starts with slab and crack pitches and finishes with ridge climbing.
© Luke Davies
L'Eveque
The many buttress of the West Face of the Eveque have a range of modern rock routes of around 8 – 10 pitches that have recently been re-equipped. There are a lot here and they are very easy to reach from the Charpoua hut.
• Ciao Marco (ED1 6b) (6b): a good modern route on Pointe Wenger that features some superb cracks
• Monsieur Lefebvre (5c): rare easier route in the Charpoua on the Pointe 3014.
Envers:
The Envers is one of the major destinations for granite cragging in the massif and there are tons of routes here, all developed in the modern style that this article is about. I will outline the classics here but there are plenty more options.
Tour Verte
The small Tour Verte is both the closest crag to the Envers hut and also one of the smallest, making it a great option for a shorter day out.
Le Piège (TD+ 6a+) (6a+): an Envers classic with it's difficulties mostly in cracks.
Pointes Des Nantillons
This crag is one of the most popular in the Envers with a quick, non glacial, approach and routes of 10 or so pitches. Pretty much all the popular routes here are in this bracket of grades.
Bienvenue au Georges V (TD+ 6a+): (6a+): The area classic!
Amazonia (TD+ 6a+) (6a+): a shorter route than joins the following at 2/3 height.
Guy-Anne, l'insolite (TD+ 6a+) (6a+): punchy for the grade and maybe the best route here with a stiff diagonal crack.
Les fleurs du mal (ED1 6b+) (6b+): a harder alternative that runs parallel to Bienvenue...
Tour Rouge
The Tour Rouge is sort of the twin to Pointe des Nantillons that is of a similar size and reached with similar ease in the opposite direction from the hut. A lot of the routes here are harder though, but it does have a few classic easier ones.
Le marchand de sable (TD+ 6a+) (6a+): the other classic climb of the sector – a bit stiffer than Bienvenue...
Aiguille Du Roc
© Luke Davies
One of the larger peaks in the area and hosting some routes that are about as long as you can get for this style and difficulty. All with an easy approach from the Envers hut.
Subtilites Dulferiennes (TD+ 6b+) (6b+): classic Piola route that has few bolts on it and even requires some belay building. Has a stunning corner crack pitch.
Children of the Moon Integrale (TD+ 6b) (6a+): one of the classic long routes of the Envers – the top half is the highlight with brilliant crack systems.
Le Soleil Rendez-Vous avec la Lune (6b) (6b): one of the longest alpine rock routes in the massif is actually on the neighbouring Grépon, not the Aiguille Roc, and goes all the way to the summit – a must for a big day out.
© Luke Davies
Lower Slabs
This actually encompasses two crags; the slabs below the Envers hut and the slabs that are accessed below the Trelaporte glacier. Routes on the latter could be climbed in a day by a fast team from the train. All feature nice climbing of mid-length, predominantly of a slabby nature.
Voie Georges (TD-) (6b), Trelaporte Slabs
20,000 Lieues Sous la Neige (TD) (6b), Trelaporte Slabs
Les contes de la folie ordinaire (TD+ 6a+) (6a+), Pilier de Conte
Amok (ED1 6b+) (6b), Pilier de Conte
Blaitière
The southern Tours of the Blaitière have a couple of easier routes that are good days out for teams who are new to the area or looking for easier routes in a magnificent setting.
Magie d'Orient (E1) (6a)
© Luke Davies
Requin
The Dent du Requin behind the Requin hut has a large south face that hosts numerous rock routes. It is often best approached on skis in the spring.
Congo Star (TD+) (6a): the classic of the crag
Argentière:
Aiguille Du Refuge
The crag right behind the Argentière hut has a very short approach time and has quite a range of short routes in the easier grades. Good for a half-day on a walk in or out.
Bettembourg de droite (TD- 5c) (5c): three pitch route to the junction with the following
Le Gateau de Riz (D 5b) (5c): classic easier climb up the left hand ridge
Bettembourg-Gillet (TD 6b+) (6b+) and Doux Refuge (TD+ 6b+) (6b+): more three pitch routes that junction with Gateau...
Aiguille Du Genepi
Still within 20 mins of the hut this peak has fantastic quality orange granite and the routes are slightly longer in length.
Mort de Rire (TD- 6a) (6a): the classic of the crag with one harder pitch but mostly easier climbing
Un Éclat de Rire (TD- 6a) (6a+): the neighboring climb of a similar quality
Plateau Du Jardin
30 mins walk from the Argentière hut in the direction of the Milleu Glacier, this peak has some classic routes in the easier grades but is slightly shadier than the other crags. Well worth a visit.
Central Diédre (TD- 6a) (6a): the prominent corner system in the middle of the buttress.
Singe Bleu (TD+ 6b) (6b): the neighbouring route is a harder alternative.
Le Minaret
The Minaret is a beautiful orange tower sitting about 45 mins walk up the Tour Noir Glacier from the hut. It has an old, classic route on it that provides a longer day out than some of those in the area.
South-East Spur (TD 6a) (6a): This classic route was put up by Rebuffat in the 60's and follows the ridge line with some good climbing on it.
South Pillar
One of the more remote crags in the area, these routes are a bit of a step up than the others in this section and require an alpine approach up the start of the Y Couloir. Both are magnificent climbs on excellent granite and a big adventure for those operating in this grade range.
Pilier Bettembourg (TD+ 6b+) (6b+): only partially equipped with belays
Pirate (ED1 6b+) (6b+): the neighbouring route and easier to get to. An amazing route at the grade!
Dalmazzi:
Monts Rouges de Triolet
This ridge line running behind the Dalmazzi hut above Val Ferret has numerous buttresses hosting rock routes of a mid length, many in this grade range. Below are some of the classics but there are many more. A great area to visit for those operating at these grades!
Vento Polare (TD-) (6a): Classic combo of the area
Profume prohibito (TD-) (6a+): Classic of the area
Cristallina (ED1) (6b+): beautiful rock
Les Chamois Volants (D+) (5c): longer, more mountaineering-style route
© Luke Davies
Orny:
Aiguille D'Orny & Aiguille De La Cabane
These two smaller peaks behind the Cabane d'Orny can be reached and climbed in a day from the Champex lift system but most will climb here with an overnight. There are a large number of lower grade rock routes on the peaks here and it should be high on the list of those operating below 6a.
Classique Sud (D) (5b)
Gérémiade (6a) (6a)
Bon Accueil (D-) (5b): Remy Bro's classic of the area
Tichodrome (5c) (5c)
Aiguilles Dorées
The South Face of the various spires of the Aiguilles Dorées host many beautiful rock routes on brilliant granite, with most on the Aiguille de la Varappe and Aiguille Sans Nom. It is a bit further to get to but is serviced by the beautiful Bivouac des Dorées. There are many more routes in the grade range here making it a good destination for those operating between 6a-6b+, especially those looking for solitude.
Eole danza per noi (6a+) (6a+): Classic of the area
Les Chants du Midi (6a+) (6a+): another route on fantastic granite
Et Je Suis Le Vent (6b+): good harder route
South Ridge of Sans Nom (D+) (5c): longer more mountaineering style route
More information and topos for some of these routes can be found in the new Rockfax Chamonix guidebook or across the JME editions Chamonix Granite volumes 1-4 or other guidebooks. There is a lot of info on CamptoCamp too.
UKC Articles and Gear Reviews by Luke Davies
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