KMF Profile / Competition: Steve McClure + Lucy Creamerby Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor Sep/2010
This article has been read 10,035 times
Featuring: Lucy Creamer, Steve McClure and presented by John Horscoft
When Adam Ondra makes a special trip during a dismal summer to try your routes, you know your reputation has transcended the tight-knit British climbing community. Equally, if your hardest ever ice route has had to be bolted before anyone else will climb it, you know it has to be nails. Steve McClure's routes at Malham and Kilnsey received the ultimate accolade this year when Ondra confirmed the grades, even hinting that they were pretty stiff. Lucy Creamer's Mighty Aphrodite in Colorado is still regarded as one of the hardest mixed routes ever climbed by a woman.
For more than a decade, Lucy Creamer has set the pace for British women climbers. She on-sights at grades few women can match and has headpointed E8. Her ascent of Kalea Barroka, F8b+ in 2008 yet again moved the goalposts before the pack had even caught up and she has a Font 7C+ boulder problem to her name.
A simple list of Steve McClure's first ascents and hard repeats tells only part of the story. His mega-routes include Rainshadow, Northern Lights and North Star, all F9a and Overshadow, F9a+. He repeated Dave MacLeod's Rhapsody, climbed Elder Statesman, one of Curbar's last great problems. The speed with which he dispatches hard routes is the stuff of legend.
What makes them tick? What drives their ambition? What makes them different to the rest of us? Find out at the Kendal Mountain Festival where John Horscroft will be asking the questions and digging deep into the minds of these amazing athletes.
Better still, make sure the burning question that had always troubled you gets asked too.
Join the thread in the UKC forum, post your question and the best two questions will win two tickets for the big night allowing the big question to be asked in person. You have until the 8th of October to post your question. Winners will be announced on the 11th of October in the forum thread.
The Slackers Guide to climbing:
Kendal Brewery Arts Centre, 7pm, Friday 19th November (based in the main theatre).
Easily accessible from the M6 and by train and there are plenty of accommodation options in and around the town but you need to be on your toes as they fill up very quickly over the Mountain Festival weekend.
For all your questions, accommodation and travel needs go to www.golakes.co.uk here you will find all the information you should need for your visit to Cumbria, alternatively call the accommodation booking line on 0845 450 1199.
I was supposed to be doing Grond E2, but instead found
myself facing the crux of Gravediggers E8 on the other side of the... Read more
Pilates is a body conditioning method that targets the deep postural muscles building strength from the inside out by working on... Read more