It must have been in the late Seventies, when camping was still allowed on the boggy bit beside the Clachaig and the pub was run by the rather eccentric Gardiner family. While dossing about beside our tent I noted that Cubby (an up and coming climber, I was told) had disappeared into the depths of Clachaig Guly armed only with a pair of EB's and had soloed up it easily and in good style. I assumed it must be a bit of a dawdle and decided to do the same next day.

It felt good to be unencumbered and light as a butterfly as I sallied forth next morning. All went well until I reached the Great Cave Pitch, at least I assumed it was that pitch as I did not have a guidebook. I sat and pondered the way ahead. It all looked a bit improbable and the first doubts began to crowd my mind. Fortunately a party of two had caught up with me and I was able to suss out the way ahead. To their embarrassment they got stuck and after a bit of faffing around they asked if I would like to lead the pitch. They did not know it was my first proper rock lead and it certainly felt safer with a rope tied round my middle. I was soon over the short lived difficulties and the two boys from Starav MC asked if I would like to continue on with them. I thanked them but said that three on a rope would be too slow and I was keen anyway to finish early.

I assumed the way ahead would be obvious and mostly it was but unfortunately on the last pitch I came unstuck. I elected to climb the crumbling left wall and near the top a loose hold came away and dumped me with a crash and splatter of loose stones and dirt at the bottom. Bruised, bloody and shocked I launched myself at the pitch from the other side and in a few moves hauled myself gratefully over the top.

It had been a painful introduction to leading and the novelty of soloing had rather lost its appeal, future climbs I decided would follow a more traditional approach.

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Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

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