UKC

My First Outdoor Lead (82) - A First Lead, A First Fall

© Steven Coleman-Williams
photo
Me on christmas curry
© Steven Coleman-Williams

It's early, far too early for a student to be awake. The door bell rings ... could it be ... yes! It's the delivery man with my new rack my parents bought me for my birthday.

I open it and have the uncontrollable urge to use it right away! I ring my friend up. “We're going to Tremadog NOW!”

After a few rushed planning details and some very rushed packing we meet at the train station and embark on the three hour journey north.

When we get there (after walking to Eric's) we get our gear on and walk to the infamous Christmas Curry.

Now taking a step back, I have been climbing for about 15 years, but have never had a consistent climbing buddy or the finances to be able to go trad climbing. I've been trad climbing for two years, all seconding, but I feel I am quite the competent indoor leader. So I thought I knew what I could expect and how I would feel. How wrong was I?

Now having never lead trad before, I've had very little formal teaching on gear placement, and jumping straight onto a Severe, you have a lot of doubt in your mind. But none the less I start my climb.

I reach the ten foot' mark and put in my first bit of gear, it's easier standing and waiting than I thought it would be, the nut goes in well, I'm happy with the placement and carry on.

My movements are sure, decisive. I start to realise that if I were to fall it's only my ability in placing gear that would stop me from hitting the floor. I start fearing that I may have jumped the gun a bit without any formal training or practice. But I force myself to enjoy the climb and get up it.

All goes well until I am just about to get to the first belay ledge. I am midway putting a cam in, my last gear placement is a good six feet below me, I slip, stupid mistake, I fall, it seems to last for ages. I scream like a baby and then suddenly remember I put all the gear in, not someone else, I then start thinking I'm going to die, thinking of my loved ones ... BANG.

That would be my harness stopping me from dying, my gear held like a trooper! I top out a little shaky but none the less proud and happy.

Since that fateful day a year ago I can now lead HVS happily.

dmm-writing_comp

www.dmmclimbing.com

Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

The competition will be judged by us here at DMM and the winner announced on Monday 24th December and will win a complete DMM rack worth £500.

But more than that, everyone who submits an essay will receive a spot prize.

More details HERE


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