My first lead...? When? Where? Almscliff? Caley? Brimham? Wales somewhere? Gods only knows. I can't remember – it's too far back, too many routes, too many repeats. Hmm, I know – Pedestal Wall at Caley...it was certainly one of the first if not actually the first. It's a good route too – I've done it every year since and that first time still shines brightly down through the years.

It was probably a Wednesday afternoon – 'games' afternoon at college. Me and my climbing 'buddy' of the time pitched up at Caley for some fun. I'd just caught the climbing bug after following a mate up some sea cliffs on the Gower and now I was at college with some second hand gear and a rudimentary rack. Our guidebook was borrowed from the college library!

A three star route, Pedestal Wall just had to be done and as the person with marginally more experience it was my lead. Getting ready took all of five seconds and off I went up the first easy slab and mantled onto a ledge...

“Great this bit, could be tricky in the wet though. Slopey holds...smooth too. Glad it's dry. Bit steeper now, ah the ledge – big one too, lovely jubbly. Now how do I get onto it...no holds to grab...mantle it...hup... yes! Huge ledge, slopes off left to... woah...that's a ruddy great gaping chasm! Am I that high already? Scary! Can't get any gear in here though. What do I do? Have to carry on. Don't like that hole. Glad it's not wet – it's greasy enough now. If I fall I'll bounce straight down there. What's the wall look like? Looks ok...massive hold up there...just out of reach – typical! How do I get to it? Ah foot in there, left hand over there...I don't like that chasm behind me...what was that mantra? Oh yes...”the leader must not fall”...good 'kin advice...right get ready...UP! Urgh don't like this. Scary. Ah that's better and...now...got it. Big? It's 'kin massive! Rightgetsomegearinnowthisisgettingtooscaryandthatholeisstillthere.
...

where'sthatnut...
...

getitin...getitin...
...

Get in...GET BLOODY IN..aha! Quick tug...BASTARD!
...

Right...
Calm...deep breaths.
Try again.
...

No, you will go in.
...

There. Tug...YES! Quick clip in. PHEW!

Now where? Straight up? Or towards the arête? The arête. Oh yes I like this bit, nice moves. What a great route. And...ah...hmm...long reach up there...nice hold. Ok so onto the ledge or traverse right? What about getting some gear in?
...

Not good. No gear that fits. No bloody gear for that matter. Why do I do these things...? I must be bloody mad? Oh well onwards and upwards. The leader must not fall. Traverse right...eeek, very delicate, up...foot...bugger...argh this hurts...there on the arête...ugh...stre-etch...that's better. Can't stay here long. That hold's a good 'un...now up and right a bit...thin holds but...oh so nice. Wow there's the top, one last reach...grab the edge...Hah! Jugs or what!? You could hang a truck off this! U-up and over.

YE-ES!

FAN-TAS-TIC.

Now arrange a belay with...let's see...two slings and a hex.

I really MUST get some more gear. This is getting out of hand.”

And it was. And I did. And continued too. Happily ever after.

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Write approximately 500 words about your first outdoor lead and supply an image of you climbing (not necessarily your first lead) and submit to: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/send.html

The competition will be judged by us here at DMM and the winner announced on Monday 24th December and will win a complete DMM rack worth £500.

But more than that, everyone who submits an essay will receive a spot prize.

More details HERE