In reply to solostoke:
On the main bit of cliff (i.e. first bit in the vid you can climb anywhere, at least on the left, at about severe, right hand side is a max of VS or so.
However, there isn't abundant protection, holds often slope in unhelpful directions and there's some loose rock on the belay ledges and descent gully (on the left, don't use the gorse filled one between this buttress and Varsity buttress.
Talking of which, it's the same sort of rock, VS and often vegetated with copious gorse if you go at all off-route! The initial 50 foot wall can be a bit greasy!
The bottom crag has a good-old severe chimney struggle, and a couple of difficult and largely unprotected E2/3s.
Be warned that there's been a number of accidents as it can be more difficult than it looks!