UKC

Me and my partner are thinking of going travelling next year and I'd like to go back to patagonia. I've only done trekking their though previously and this time would like to do some climbing. I'm aware of all the very hard climbing there but was wondering if there were easier routes to go at. Looking for:

Trad routes up to about E1
Sport up to about 6b
Alpine routes up to about AD
mixed or ice up to about grade 4

or more technical trekking routes

Probably thinking more northern Patagonia, looking at Cochomo in particular, but open to suggestions.

Thanks
Sam

In reply to sheelba:

Got recommended Frey and El Chaltén, anyone got any experience of easier routes in either of these two places?

In reply to sheelba:
go to bariloche or san martin the los andes!
i have been there, awesome places to climb routes from 5c to 8c, a lot of treking, clasic routes and more.
for me bariloche and san martin de los andes are the best climbing spots of the patagonia.

In reply to sheelba:

Probably the easiest route in the Fitz Roy range is the Whillans-Cochrane on Poincenot. Difficulties are concentrated on a mixed section in the middle - one long or two short pitches of ~HVS/ V. Other than that it's grade II snow and scrambling up to Severe. Very attainable for many and gets you to an incredible summit in the heart of one of the world's most spectacular ranges.

http://pataclimb.com/climbingareas/chalten/fitzgroup/poincenot/whillans.htm...

In reply to sheelba:

Another vote for the Whillans-Cochrane on Poincenot Come on Sam!

In reply to sheelba: I passed through Frey a few years ago whilst trekking. It's a stunning place, with what looked like a huge amount or rock available - lots of cracks, lots of towers, all a short walk from the refuge.

The refuge sells all the beer and food you need (though not that cheap), and you can sleep there, or lots of folks were just camped wild (you can hire tents from the climbing shops in Bariloche) around the lake.

Long steep walk up there, or you can get an out of season ski lift up a neighbouring valley and have a leisurely couple of hour stroll to drop down into it.

It'll be very different from El Chalten, but if you looking for single and multi-pitch trad in a chilled environment then it'd be awesome.

(as a recommendation, on the way down I bumped into an old friend who's a guide in Squamish, and he was back for his third visit)

In reply to sheelba:

Got back from a Cochamo (Chile) & Frey trip 2 wks ago. Both are stunning & quite different from each other. Based on your post, Frey would seem like a better fit. If you want some up to date details on logistics etc… for either place (incl. prices while they’re still fresh in my mind), shoot me a note.

In reply to sheelba:
Just got back back from Torres del Paine. We had one nice day in the sun on the Monzino route on the north tower (rest of the time too windy). It's basically a long easy scramble up 1000 metres of slabs, followed by some easy jiggery-pokery to get into the couloir. This goes at about Vdiff (max)/scottish II/III for a few pitches to the col. There's an awkward 20 metre pitch at about HVS 5a, then the crux slab pitch into a short wide crack - this pitch about E1 5b. That's as far as we got as it was getting late and we got a bit spooked as the wind rose against our week old forecast. As I understand we had about 4 more vdiff pitches then a VS pitch to the summit.
There's loads of other similar stuff in the area, all poorly documented - plus about 1000 lifetimes of new route potential.
There's a permit system that you MUST undertake before you head out if you want to climb and/or go into the high valleys and backcountry in the national park, but it is just a formality.
Torres del Paine left me pretty much speechless with wonder at its Beauty and badassness - Easter should be quiet though, but God knows about the weather. The people are absolutely fantastic. I doubt there's a better place in the world than Patagonia.

HTH

Tom

In reply to Tom Last:

Bodmin Moor?

In reply to rhudson:


Never as good as Bodmin Moor Rich!

In reply to Tom Last:

Sounds like that's a bit much unless I have an amazingly successful alpine summer. Do you know of any easier peaks in the area or any good sources of info, thanks Sam

In reply to sheelba:

Look up pataclimb.com .

or just buy Rolo's book, worth having on the book shelf even if you don't go there.

Lots of routes from very easy to very hard, you know about the weather.

In reply to sheelba:
Shark's Fin in French Valley would be a good bet I believe Sam, there's a few routes on that at lower grades I think. There's also a video of Dave Turner's newish stuff in the park somewhere online - I think he did a lot of shorter 5.9 ish stuff as well as much harder things.

I think Erratic Rock in Puerto Natales keeps a new routes book of sorts, as does the park's administration. It's possible they may be able to help you out. Not sure how one gets access to the park's stuff though - probably got to their office, which doesn't exactly help you. I'd try Erratic Rock.

It's all very Heath Robinson, but everyone's very friendly and helpful, so you should be able to find info.

Good luck,
Tom

In reply to Tom Last:

Thanks I've just found out that a friend of a friends from Chile has climbed the Shark's fin, looks like a good objective

In reply to sheelba:

It's a pretty striking bit of rock and in surroundings that don't exactly disappoint. The lack of information online about the park and permits etc. can seem a little confusing at first, so if you look further into it, feel free to drop me a PM with any questions and I'll tell you what I can.

Cheers,
Tom