I found some decent beach bouldering, but with the few bits of cliff climbing I did (DWS) all I found was loose rock. It made for exciting ascents! There may be some more solid rock hidden elsewhere though.
Where are you staying? Maybe some potential around Fiskardo, but generally the rock is loose and covered in goats. Nice island, but I much prefer the north and east.
I've tried climbing at kefalonia and The nearby Ithaca. Ithaca was generally on better quality rock but still nothing to get too excited about. More for a fun bit of dws and traversing on your hols.
Ithaca did have a nice boulder inland behind vathy (the capital) but it'd be a fair way to go for a couple of boulder problems.
Tbh if it's climbing you're going for, you really need to be going to that other Greek island
There's a big slab of rock behind the car park for myrtos beach which is quite solid and reasonably safe goes at about severe.
On the left hand end of the beach there's a wall of solid ish rock that can be climbed for about 20m but then you are committed to climbing a huge loose cliff for a further couple of hundred meters to get off. Goes at about E2 4c or some HXS grade. I was meant to have gone off bouldering for about 30 minutes. I got back to the beach about 5 hours later very sunburnt, very dehydrated and very nearly single.
the place we are staying is called Agia Effimia, its quite central. from the sound of it i think we will just take our shoes and a few chalk bags so we can play on some loose cliffs. cheers for the advice
Lived (and climbed) on Ithaca and worked (and climbed) on Kefalonia for many years. There is climbing on both islands, and great potential, but you need to know where to look and have time to explore, preferably by Rib or kayak.. At Piso Aetos on Ithaca (opposite Ag. Efimia ) where the ferry lands there is a 40m crag on which I climbed 4 trad routes to E3, but these may have been retro-bolted. 20 mins drive from you to Sami and then just above the Poros road there is an extensive bouldering area formed by the collapse in prehistoric times of a large crag. You can drive almost up to it. Great DWS near Sarakiniko on Ithaca, good bouldering near the Heliport at Anoghi including a large monolith 15m high with two routes up it and room for more. Miles of undeveloped limestone sea cliffs on Kef's W Coast and not all of it is like the crags around Myrtos.
Just realised my daughter who climbs may be out at the same time as you, staying in Sami. Check out the boulders above the Sami-Poros road about 4k out of Sami. You may even have company. Another good location is a line of low sea cliffs about 3K N of Fiscardo. There's a way marked coastal footpath for part of the way but stick to the coast when it finally turns inland and you'll reach a whole series of steep little limestone buttresses. Some great swimming coves on the way too. If you have the time and the money, there's boat hire available in both Ag. Efimia and Fiscardo - a great way to explore in the heat of the day.
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