In reply to papashango:
Hi - I can offer some up to date info as I am there right now.
Yes, there is plenty of polish on some routes in Tonsai - mostly the really accessible lower grade routes. Even in Tonsai, it's possible to escape the polish and the crowds by heading to the less accessible places, especially if you're willing to do a bit of wading (eg to the Keep or Eagle Wall etc). The multi-pitch routes of 6c and harder are usually amazing and most don't have any polish after the first pitch.
We are staying in a small village called Chong Pli, about 15 minutes scooter ride from Ao Nang. There is a newly developed crag (spirit mountain) here with enough pitches to keep most people busy for a good few days. It's in one of the new guidebooks, but, in a nutshell, it's a great crag. Slightly different from some of the other Krabi area venues in that it offers a great variety of routes from techy slabs, through wall climbs, to steep tufa, pockets and jug-pulling. There are bungalows right under the crag at about 400 Baht a night. We stayed there for a few days before renting a house and they're highly recommended! Run by a really nice local family who will drive you into Ao Nang if you need them to to collect a moped.
There are also some other new areas undergoing development accessible by moped - all within a 20 minute scooter ride.
Tonsai is still quite busy at the moment and there is a lot of rubbish around. From what I have heard, there has been a massive problem with food poisoning this year and alot of people have been quite ill. We haven't been staying there, and we haven't had any problems. We have been going over there once a week to climb - just taking a boat from Ao Nang.
There are a lot of advantages of not staying in Tonsai. It is ALOT cheaper outside of Tonsai/Railay. The food is generally safer, and it's very easy to escape tourism. Just 10-20 mins up the coast from Ao Nang it's possible to find deserted beaches or crystal clear rivers to swim in on rest days.
Overall, if you want a bit of a party scene and don't mind being surrounded by rubbish, stay in Tonsai. If not, consider staying in one of the out of town places close to Krabi or Ao Nang, renting a moped and hitting a mixture of "mainland" and Tonsai/Railay crags. This also gives the option of visiting Ko Yao Noi, which has some excellent climbing. It's possible to ride there on the moped from Ao Nang - it takes about half an hour to the pier in Ao Thalane, then get some help lifting the bike onto the "ferry" (basically a big longtail boat). Once there, there are a few crags to visit - enough to keep busy for at least a week.