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Verdon: Crag accessibility from the river?

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 BattyMilk 17 Apr 2024

I’m starting to think about end of summer plans and Verdon gorge has been raised as an option.

 The guidebook is on its way in the post but I’ve had a thought about the possibility of combining it with a river trip.

Initial thoughts are a day travelling on the river (kayak/pack raft), set up camp at or near a crag, a day’s climbing, back on the river the following day, repeat.

Looking at Google earth and photos/videos of the gorge from both climber’s and boater’s perspectives it seems some areas are right at the river and others (L’Escales looks particularly appealing) will require a bit of bush whacking and scrambling up scree. 

I’ve not been able to find any info about the feasibility of climbing from the river and curious if anyone here has done it (or has simply climbed but had a wander down to the river) and can offer advice on the access of crags from the river rather than abbing in from the top?

In reply to BattyMilk:

I had similar thoughts way back (1970s/1980s). There was then a guidebook to the route down the river by swimming and paddling, which I bought for future reference but never got round to using. The level varies a lot as it is controlled by a dam. On one occasion it was a roaring torrent not crossable except by bridges but on all my other visits there was little water. In one place, well downstream of the main crags, the swim guidebook said there was then usually a sump that had to be dived so boats of any sort might be difficult unless this has changed. Further upstream most crags were easily accessed by going down to the river and following the paths.

OP BattyMilk 19 Apr 2024
In reply to harold walmsley:

Thanks Harold. Seems there’s a dam release a couple of days a week during the summer and on those days it’s suitable for rafting and a trickle for the most part on the other days. The rafting does look fantastic when it’s running though. I’ve ordered an old copy of white water southern alps to try and learn more. Climbing bottom up from the river does seem possible from what I’ve seen so far though.

 Cheers 

 jwi 19 Apr 2024
In reply to BattyMilk:

Camping is not allowed on the banks of the river. The Gorge itself is inaccessible by rafts.

OP BattyMilk 19 Apr 2024
In reply to jwi:

I’d read about the camping restrictions, portaledging appears to not be an issue though so that could be an option. 

Could you expand on the gorge being inaccessible by rafts? My understanding is that it is on the days the dam is open (I’ve also found trip reports and YouTube video that seem to support this) but the water is too low when it’s closed. 

 Paul at work 19 Apr 2024
In reply to BattyMilk:

The main Verdon Gorge as a paddling trip is pretty tricky and committing Grade 4/5 White Water, but then it does ease off to something much more relaxing.  

OP BattyMilk 19 Apr 2024
In reply to Paul at work:

Thanks Paul. Are the spicier sections portageable to your knowledge?

 jimtitt 19 Apr 2024
In reply to BattyMilk:

Bivouacing is specifically not permitted.

2
 Paul at work 19 Apr 2024
In reply to BattyMilk:

Not massively. Some bits are, some bits are must run, blind rapids through huge Siphons.

This will give you a feel for it -  youtube.com/watch?v=NzYVpNNgcJw&

Post edited at 17:54
 GrahamD 21 Apr 2024
In reply to BattyMilk:

From memory, even the routes that start from the bottom of the cliff (many, many don't) start a good bushwack up from the river itself.  Not something I'd do myself.

 ripper 21 Apr 2024
In reply to BattyMilk:

Did a route called something like Les Empreintes des Millenaires a few years back, that started from the valley floor near the river IIRC - following a walk down through sections of tunnel 

 mattrm 21 Apr 2024
In reply to Paul at work:

That looks very cool.  Doubt I'll ever get into kayaking enough to do that, but it looks amazing.

 John Gresty 23 Apr 2024
In reply to BattyMilk:

Many years ago,  (early 1980's)  but at the second attempt, we traversed the whole of the bed of the gorge down to the lake by a combination of walking, wading and swimming. First attempt halted by high water levels. It's an interesting expedition.

John Gresty

OP BattyMilk 23 Apr 2024
In reply to John Gresty:

Thanks John

I’ve got the paddling guidebook and when it’s runnable with the dam open it looks like it’s far above my experience level so that’s probably out.

I’d read it was “swim/walk-able” on the days the dam is closed (sounds like what you did) so want to investigate the possibility of packrafting the wet sections and walking the rest over a couple of days, climbing and sleeping on the wall.

From my research so far I’ve not been able to find anything more than a number of guiding companies offering day trips to swim in sections of the gorge when the dam is closed but not much on travelling the entire length  

Would be very interested in learning more about your trip if you’re happy to share details?

 John Gresty 23 Apr 2024
In reply to BattyMilk:

Followed the path along the gorge for as long as possible, and then got into the water.

We had very little knowledge except that it was possible if the water level was low. Took a short length of rope to protect any tricky river work and an inflatable cushion each. We believed that there was an exit point near the end but just kept going with a long swim out to the lake at the end.  We had a pick up arranged on the lakeside beach at the end.

John Gresty


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