In reply to Rob Parsons:
We are using the French grade for routes and the Font grade for bouldering. As part of the writing process of this book, grades were looked at in detail for a number of reasons. We had to depart from the UK Tec grade as it no longer works especially, as pointed out, in the higher grades, but to be honest anything from UK 4c and up, things begin to overlap and go out of sync.
For this guide, we are undertaking a transition process concerning the move to French grades. The UK Tec grade will still be there, but in a more minimal manner, to help many of us make the move over. This will also help people stop overworking routes they mistake for easy French grade whereas, in fact, they are hard UK Tec grades.
The book is also a step to help modernise certain aspects of sandstone climbing, primarily as a guide book but also concerning climbing practices and how these are communicated. Hundreds of new climbers come to sandstone each year and we want to ensure they have the best possible information in their hands from day one.
There are plenty of new routes and problems as well as correct ones which have become miss-leading in the past.
Hope this helps.
Cheers