In reply to Alan James - Rockfax:
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> In the case of the Beta Stick - this review is an honest appraisal of using the device during a period of a few trips. If it falls apart over the next few trips then that wouldn't be good and we could add that to the review. So far it hasn't fallen apart so it would be wrong to say that in the review. It has performed exactly as designed and is a clever piece of kit. It is also a new model so it wouldn't be appropriate to judge it on the performance of old models.
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> Alan
Hmmm... fair enough it performed well over a couple of trips but I would say that it is fair then to make a comment in the review that longevity and durability can not be commented on. Also I would say that durability in pieces of equipment such as these is a key part of its function. When new Beta-Sticks work well and are very handy however it has been my experience and that of most sport climbers I know that they tend to start to fall apart quickly.
To say it is not fair to compare its durability with previous models does not really stack up in my opinion. It is very similar (almost identical) to previous models and I think a quick discussion with any of your friends that did a lot of sport climbing would show that many (not all I grant you) would say that they are very poor in the durability department.
As I have said previously I just don't think this is a fair review, it is just an advert.
Personally my opinion is that they are handy bits of equipment that work well when new. Size and lightness is good which makes taking them abroad viable. However they are not cheap and tend not to last well. Most people I know have had them break very quickly and have had to put tape around the locking rings. Obviously I know a few people who have had no problems with them. Overall if you want a clip-stick for use from the ground and don't need to take it up the route then I would make your own otherwise if you want something to take up a route or abroad then Beta-Sticks are a good option but be aware they need to be well cared for or they will break!
I think the problem with the article about the sticks is that it really doesn't have any negatives when most people who use or know about them would say there are plenty of negatives about them. This doesn't mean they are useless and that people shouldn't buy them, it just means that an honest and fair minded review would include these. In my opinion this would make the review much more credible and much more likely to influence/change my own (to be honest fairly negative) opinion towards them.
Cheers Dave