I can't get logged in so I'm starting a new threat to answer this question.
Ledge Route was approachable on Saturday by the rocks to the right of Number 5 Gully (with care, they were very wet).
The first ''slab pitch'' was wet and dangerous so we backed off after a careful recce being mindful of the consequences of a slip never mind a real fall.
We had done Aonach Eagach previous day and thought Ledge Route be a nice follow up.
I'm sure it would be but not without taking belays (we thought we could do without gear of any sort).
The left edge of the buttress (The Curtain ice climb in winter) is called Mourning Slab in summer. That would seem appropriate in the conditions.
We backed off very carefully and proceeded to climb No 4 Gully (snow from Lochan na Ciste all the way to the plateau) kicking steps and also using the gap between the snow and the right hand gully wall for progress.
Entertaining but not really recommended! LOL
We found THREE Grivel ice axes in the gully, yes, three!
We left them propped up against the cairn at the top.
Also found a half bottle of Icelandic schnapps on the summit in the observatory remains (which we did NOT consume)!
If you go up to tackle the route don't expect it to be dry and please take care.
I heard voices but couldn't see anyone on the cliffs. Considering the weather this summer, last Saturday definitely was a ''good'' day to be on the Ben. The guy we were speaking with in the Alex Mac Hut prior to going up the hill mentioned an alternative way of doing Ledge Route but not knowing the hill well enough we went for the guidebook description. I should have pressed him for more details of the alternative start I guess.
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