UKC

Marietta Uhden has made what may be the first female ascent of THE classic La Rose et le Vampire, hard and polished 8b, at Buoux. More details over at UKClimbing news. (If anyone is certain whether or not it's the first ascent by a woman, we'd love to hear.)

In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC Editor: Do people still climb at Buoux? First time i have heard of a significant repeat there in about 5 years.

In reply to Chris Fryer:
Hardly anyone which makes for wonderful holidays. Easter week, only us and 5 other teams on the whole mile (?) long cliff - bliss.

In reply to Readza: Sounds good. Seems to be the french way of doing thing; develop a crag, it becomes fashionable, everyone goes there until it becomes really polished, then everyone moves on.

In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC Editor:
Something I've just been reminded of is this:

I've heard that Antoine Le Menestral has climbed Rose et Vampire without the chipped holds. Now, not sure whether this includes not using the drilled pockets.

Can anyone confirm this, please? Sounds incredible...

In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC Editor:

An 8b is polished?! FFS!!

In reply to Chris Fryer:

In fairness its not just the French who have abandoned it, there used to be as many foreigners as french there and as others have said it's deserted now, the routes are still fantastic.

This also happens in this country, how many people do you see at Runyons Corner these days...

In reply to Tyler: Sorry, fair comment. It just seems more prevalent in France than here for example, where there is a love of esoterica and people seems to accept knackered out crags more readily.

In reply to Tyler:

Runyons Corner and Buoux in the same paragraph ... brilliant!

I reckon Buoux is still probably the finest crag I've ever been to. I am not sure why I haven't been there for 10 years since I'd only done about 5% of the routes when I last went. If it is deserted then I would recommend it to anyone and everyone nowadays.

My top few French crags in order -

Buoux
Boucher
Claret
Verdon

...and I haven''t been to Ceuse

Sometimes when singing the praises of Spanish or Sardinian limestone, you forget the fact that many of the crags in France are twice as good.

Alan

In reply to Charles Arthur, UKC Editor:

In an old climbing rag (about 10 years ago) she is doing a route topless.

Hmmmmmmmmmm

In reply to Peter: OTE no 53. Still in the bog. Why are pages stuck together?


Only joking, I have no idea which one it was. Just rememebr trying to decide if she WAS actually a woman or not.

In reply to Chris Fryer:

Quite agree,

I was working at Airtours down the Parkway in Manchester at the time, and it was a 60 / 40 split if she was male / female.

The lads said yes, the women were not impressed, because they wondered what she had that they didn't.

I said it may have something to do with her hobby not being shopping.

A bientot

I am thinking about going soon - but I don't drive. Is it do-able? Can I camp near to the crags and walk in? Cheers,

In reply to Peter:

>I said it may have something to do with her hobby not >being shopping.

and never was a truer word written

Jaded

you must go, many people, me included think it is the best.

James

In response to John S.
We went to Buoux for the first time about 9 years ago on the bus (stupid I know but we where skint!!) Camped at Apt where most climbers are and found hitching to the crag about 10km away a piece of piss. Mind you it was a lot busier then.