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Craig_M17 Sep 2003
I'm well aware that dynos are often height dependent, but is Quent's really B8? You're going from good holds to an enormous one and you really would need to be a midget to not be able to make the jump. Or am I missing something?
not many people (if any) actaully do quents dyno -me included. basically everyone i've seen do to gets the listed handholds, stands into the crack and break ane jumps. Its a bit commiting at first but its easy really and worth about B6. However this isn't really quents dyno. What the rockfax guide fails to point out is that it actually goes off specific footholds as well as specific handholds.
If you can get hold of the old peak boldering guide (myres) its got a grawing which illustrates is well. Below the break for you right outside edge theres a clusters of crystel-like knobbles, and then you use edge of the crack (obvious poffed bit) level with this for left toe. Watch One Summer, i'm pretty sure this is what Pritchard is using on it. I've never tried it this "real" way i have to say but does look closer to proper B8 cos you've got to jump further and the footholds are not ledges.
Carnage17 Sep 2003
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Are you serious? Just for a quick comparison, that would make it (in V grades) one grade easier than, say Midnight Lightning???
Why don't you climb down off your high horse for a moment, I'll spot you. I was merely trying to see if there was a concencus that it was overgraded, not trying to be big headed. I'm aware that it is one of those problems that should be easy for me, being 6'4", but I just couldn't see where it would be hard. You want me to offer a grade? how about B5?
Carnage17 Sep 2003
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Thats fair enuff. It just strikes me that peak grades seem soft when you take yourself off to other places. US, Font etc.....
Actually, the Myers guide shows the footholds as being the crystals for your right foot and the polished hold in the break for your left. I have a copy and checked this last night.
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