UKC

John Welford has done the hardest bit of climbing on Stanage Edge with a more difficult start into Robin Barker's E8 7a Marbellous. See news:


http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

I'm pretty sure the route does have a name in the outside routes book. it might even ben called "lost my marbles" or soemthing like that but don't quote me. awesome effort.

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: but what's he ever done on grit?

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Brilliant effort... it's a helluva long way to that break.

In reply to Derbyshire Ben: I know, I've looked at (with no intention of even trying) the wall an i can't even think of holds one could dyno off.

The question must be the grade, shirley a 7c dyno to get to an E8 7a must be harder than E8 7a, if only just for the effort?

In reply to sloper:

surely the questions 'how the hell do you grade a dyno' I've done dynos easily that my friends can't touch, simply because of brute force and ignorance. Doesn't mean much.
PT

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

I'd have thought the grade would be E9 7c, 7c for the dyno and E9 because he hurt his back, poor lamb.

In reply to Hotbad Peteel:


Not really no... JW gave the bottom wall Font. 7c

>Doesn't mean much.

I assume that you've not had a close look at this particular route then....

In reply to Hotbad Peteel: Was trying a problem at the wall the other evening which, for me, involved at sorts of technical boylocks including ever higher heel hooks. Some young git came along and onsighted it using nothing more than brute force and ignorance. Doesn't mean much.

In reply to Derbyshire Ben: I can't imagine John (who isn't exactly a 7' tall giant) got to the break in one move so presumably there's some technical moves incolved, E9 7a perhaps?

In reply to Derbyshire Ben:

I've looked at it a few years ago and tried to get up it in my punter days with a pair of trainers on and probably collapsed in a heap laughing. I couldn't find any holds on the bottom (as a piss weak punter) and it is a long way. Dynos are very difficult to grade though. I've climbed dynos graded v6 or so and thought they felt like v3 or v4. I'm good at the snatch power thing though. I'll have a look next time i'm over there I promise and then I can give a proper informed opinion
PT

In reply to Richard Bradley:

Which wall Richard. If it was nwf and it was me I humbly apologise.
PT

In reply to Hotbad Peteel: I guarantee that you won't be able to get near it.

In reply to Hotbad Peteel:
I'll have a look next time i'm over there I promise and then I can give a proper informed opinion

Please don't put youself out on my account.

In reply to Hotbad Peteel: right wall, wrong git

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

how the hell did he do it? Its been p*ssing down for ages!

:0)

And surely it has to have a harder tech grade for the dyno?

In reply to Simon: check your email

In reply to Simon:

Just looked at the piccie, which line is it? Just curious thats all.

In reply to Simon:

I think it was on Dec 21st or thereabouts.. but I agree, a fine effort doing such a tough line amidst all the poor weather.

>And surely it has to have a harder tech grade for the dyno?

Maybe not with Font 7c being within the bounds of Eng 7a...

In reply to Derbyshire Ben:

mmmm ok.

I can't even begin to comprehend Font 7c!

;0)

In reply to Simon:
G'day Si! I've sent you a text and both Sloper & I are trying to get hold of you. Got any free floorspace tonight? Sloper's offering to bring wine by the way!

In reply to DaveC at Work:
Apologies to everyone for the hijack.

In reply to Simon:

I believe the prime motivator was the impending birth of a child. Ahh, sweet.

In reply to Anonymous:

The route has been named Mother of Pearl, E8 7a

In reply to DaveC at Work:

Only if its a vintage 1940 Chataux nuef de pape!

<<<end hijack>>>

In reply to Simon:
Châteauneuf-du-Pape. 1940 might be a bit off now?

On thread: tremendous achievement by Welford. Must be some dyno of nothing-holds.

In reply to J2: right hand wall, about where the light grey streak runs down the wall.

In reply to Duma Brickhill:

Thank you, not that am about to try it LOL, just curious and may have a look next time am there! see what its all about etc

In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Good effort. Seems to improve on the slightly flawed nature of Marbelous. Interestingly enough I had a conversation with a Peak afficionado two days before the ascent; he claimed that Stanage would never see an E9 as it is "too positive"; seems like this might be a contender.

JAMIE B>

In reply to Jamie B.: have a look at a direct start to fairy steps next time you are in the area, off the pedestal, i had a go and thought it sick/no gear and a bad landing with the pedestal in the way

In reply to J2: I think you should. that WOULD be a grade leap!

In reply to Jamie B.:

wall to the right of ullyses (sp)? no gear... hard...

In reply to annon: you been watching hard grit?

In reply to gear boy:

thats been done years ago, its E4.

In reply to Jamie B.:
>he claimed that Stanage would never see an E9 as it is "too positive

That's probably not true as there are loads of gaps that will be very hard (wall right of Ulysses) if they ever get done, but it does have far fewer hard routes that the other edges, probably due to there being lots of breaks and gear (hence loads of E6 6c's).

Looking at the Rockfax, in 591 routes there is only 1 (now two if they're independent??) E8's or above (If Unfamiliar is E7) that I can think of and not many E7's on the main edge itself.

Froggatt only has 115 routes (RF again) and I can think of 5 E8+ routes and Curbar has 127 routes and I can think of 7 routes at E8 or harder.

It does seem to have too many holds to be really, really hard!!