UKC

How do you get onto the little foot ledge below the Chips to prepare for the Zebedee? I tried a mixture of heelhooking and other smeary type stuff but on the smears i always slipped when preparing for the leap... how did any other ascencionists do it? Are there any other great (but easier maybe...) dynos around?

In reply to Andrew Emery: use the smears,thats why its eng 6b/c

In reply to Andrew Emery:

heelhooking? are you on drugs?

right foot smear on the lower rock (anywhere, it'll come off anyway), left toe on ledge, jump. best way to hold chips is both hands laying off the central pillar, that way you can pull hard left to get weight over your left foot and jump easy.

In reply to Anonymous: i tried to arm-bar it or double fist jam it!

In reply to Andrew Emery:

WTF?! Why...?

In reply to Adam Lincoln: cos it just wasnt holding me whoilst i got my foot up

In reply to Andrew Emery: Don't worry. Time is on your side.

In reply to Richard Bradley: hehehe! yeah but i wanna be one of the youngest/ smallest people to do it... i lost a lot of skin on it!

In reply to Andrew Emery: sounds to me like you havn't a hope in hell, or even the faintest idea of how to do this problem.

In reply to Anonymous: Oh well. At least he's in with the majority!

In reply to Andrew Emery: i can do it... stop destroying my huge optimism/selfbelief/ego!

In reply to Andrew Emery:

sorry but its a very straightforward problem (unless this is a bad-taste troll), 1 move, and if you can't just pull on and have a go without needing arm-bars/double fist jams/heelhooking then you havent got a prayer.

I still can't get me head round why you would want to try any of the above techniques. its litterally grab chips with both hands, feet on, dyno, simple. If you can't try that (i.e. its obvious) then you've more chance of teaching a quadruple amputee to ride a unicycle whilst juggling.

In reply to Andrew Emery:

Just step back from this a moment...

You are very young and from the sound of your posts, relatively new to climbing. You have a long way to go and a lot of time to do it, so relax a bit and take it slowly. You don't need to waste time trying hard boulder problems when you're not ready for the techniques required, nor abusing routes by pointlessly top-roping them.

Just take your time, build things up slowly, get competent at the level you're at now, whether bouldering or leading, and then try to progress gradually - you've got the time to do it, and these routes and problems won't go away, they'll still be there for when you're truly ready for them.

In reply to Fiend: Too true. Plus do you think anyone other than you will really be bothered if you are one of the youngest/smallest people to do it. Work your way up to it by doing other easier problems first. You will probably do it quicker than just throwing yourself at it, when it seems like you aren't even anywhere near close to possibly doing it.

In reply to Andrew Emery: well pardon me for having fun! if you think that you should follow ethics, you obviously haven't been far out of the box to not care and have fun (such as skipping down the road holding hands with my best mate singing pop music!) and you even go as far as to have a go at me for toproping something at the limit of my skills! Oh and i'm sorry i also wear a helmet, is that a crime? are safety precautions a crime? for god's sake, just stick to your strict ethical world and ill stick to my fun world. All i asked was help for how to get the weight over the left foot so i can jump! all i needed was another 5cm or so to reach!

In reply to Andrew Emery:

Wearing a helmet is very good.

It's the other things you've posted about that I'm trying to suggest a more productive and rewarding and ultimately a lot more fun approach to (including your posts on here where you're not really understanding about bouldering technique). You'll realise that there are a lot better and enrichening and satisfying ways to explore the limits of your skills by fooling yourself on a top-rope.

As I said, you've got time to go a long way and have a lot of fun with climbing....just take the first steps in the right direction.

In reply to Andrew Emery: Sorry but that E3 solo was the best experience of my life, ever! i didn't want to die, so i headpointed. Fine call it H3 then, but after having only done UK 6a boulder problems, i didn't really think i could do it straight off! No offense, but do you always stay on grit? when was the last time you did something truly scary like walk through the real world at night? do you live in a cave somewhere? do you have fun by shouting at people who did something "Unethical". OK, maybe i am a little random in the problems i choose, but the picture looked amazing! I had to try it! so i did. Can't hurt someone for trying can you? i don't want to sit a t home thinking no i don't want to try it it looks too hard! It doesn't even matter to the real world, one persons climbing. try to come over to our side, the world of work and school. population 85 billion. -1 of course.

In reply to Andrew Emery:
All i asked was help for how to get the weight over the left foot so i can jump!

OK (dusting down memory...) hands on the chips, R foot on high smear/pebble?, L foot on ledge; now pull up HARD in a slightly leftwards direction then jump...its a looooooong way...

In reply to Pinch'a'salt: yeah i left mucho skin on the bulge just below... its hard cos u can't actually see just how far it is!

In reply to Andrew Emery:

<Michael Winner>Calm down! It's only a boulder problem.</Michael Winner>

In reply to Andrew Emery:


I guarantee that waiting until you could onsight it, and onsighting it, would be a far, far better experience.


Then simply don't do it. Accept that you cannot do it, and leave it until a time that you can. The route will always be there and at some point you will be able to do it - then go and do it.

In reply to Fiend: Why not do it? the group had already set up a toprope so i thought why not toprope it? then i thought wow that was amazin might as well solo it! Oh, sorry, i forgot. Toproping is illegal isn't it? well then lock the freshers from the Salford Uni crew up, cos they did it all day!

In reply to Andrew Emery:

What's a Zebedee?

In reply to Andrew Emery: and anyway, i was too scared to on-sight it as the crux is at the top! Ill laugh at you when you fall off a purely ethical ascent of an E10 and seriously injure yourself!

In reply to Fiend:

Breaking into a new grade is slightly more involved than that. There are going to be some routes that you want to get first time - on-sight. What you need to do is find routes at the lower end of the grade that you don't mind messing up (style-wise) on so that you can get a feel for the grade. Then you can start going for the better routes, or routes that you aspire to, and hopefully do them in good style.

Bob

In reply to Jus: *boing* said zebedee!

In reply to Andrew Emery:

Look after those ankles, youth.

You only get one set.

In reply to Bob:
Did you do the Langdale Horseshoe on Saturday then?

In reply to Andrew Emery:
Fiend makes alot of enemies on these forums but he mostly talks sense. Hes right, youll have more fun onsighting routes than top-roping them then doing them again. If you already know how to do all the moves, the climb becomes a bit worthless and boring compared to an onsight. Some VSs have awesome lines and ace climbng too you know, it doesnt have to be E3 to be good!

In reply to Removed User:

No, I had the dog for the day so went for a walk in the Dales. Was a bit nippy on the fells by all accounts. Ran the Bronte Way race on Sunday and finished in the same position as last year. Nothing like consistency!

Bob