/ Westway climbing centre grades
really? how interesting.
how do they relate to those practised by french frogs or english pomms
wrong end of the country - it is in london
Pond traverse 6b+ FA Jeremy Fisher
Green Grocer's crack HVS 5a FA Russett Apple?
i am now confused
what are the grades in westway - french or english?
not really - i dont go
it is to prove a point
Well a mate says he has led a 6c and he probably has but i am trying to prove him wrong because i am a bastard like that.
So if he has done 6c englich he is getting good and if it is french then he is getting worse
Westway use the French system, but a 6c there could be anything from f5+ to 7a+
The grades on all the leading and top roping walls are french.
The grades on all the bouldering are english.
The route setters used are all either known route setters (these would include Chris Plant, Ian Vickers, Andy Long) or are climbers who have been route setting in the more localised area, i.e. The Castle, The Climb who have all climbed at least E7. (these would include Liam Halsey, Kev "Noon", Jon Partridge)
Having said all that the grading is all over the place!!!!
The standard system we use is a single colour for hands, that same colour plus any features for feet.
Discs are not generally included as features.
Some on the climbs actually state the above in their description, some do not, which I admit is confusing. Adding to this confusion is the fact that re-setting has just begun, or should I say just finished on the main walls meaning that the grades listed are initially Chris's impression of how hard it is.
I would like to set up a team of climbers, one short, one tall, one female, who can work together, all climb the routes and then give a concensus as to the grade....Any takers?
In the meantime, take it as read that climbs are soft at the grade with a few notable exceptions.
Looking to the future, once a grading party has been set up I will look to also indicate the brit.tech grade for the hardest move on each climb.
John, if you need a one legged cripple in your team of climbers, I'll give it a go. No, being serious for a minute, I don't mind helping if you want, but I can probably only do Sunday afternoons.
Let me know.
P.S. Had a great time in Frankenjura, the weather was great and so was the wedding. Tell you about it later if you want.
John, on this point ... do you think people who climb at least E7 are really the most suitable for setting F4 and F5 climbs ? Or rather grading them. As you'll see from other posts I've made about the Westway I think it's the best place I've climbed at but as you accept the grading is a problem, and I think for the lower end climbs you need people who regularly climb at those grades to grade them ... lets be honest if you're good enough and strong enough to climb E7 do you really know if it F4 or F5 ... to you it was a set of stairs either way :-)
Thanks for the clarification ... that would explain why some of the routes seemed so damn hard for their grade !!!!
> Discs are not generally included as features.
Does this include the 'large disks' on the right hand end of the main overhanging wall ?
Thanks for contributing and good luck.
> The grades on all the leading and top roping walls are french.
oh dear - and I thought I was getting better!!
That explains a lot... thanks
Perhaps we could also have a grade book for people to either vote hard easy or just right at the grade??
Elsewhere on the site
We recently reported that Pete Whittaker had flashed the 32-pitch big wall route Freerider 5.12d , during a... Read more
WINTERFEST 2014 at Outside in Hathersage 6th and 7th December 2014 Outside's ever popular Winterfest event is back... Read more
As a long-standing name in the UK rockshoe market, Scarpa have a loyal following and many much-loved models. As a fan... Read more
I am Matthew Phillips, I'm nearly 14 and I was born without my right arm below the elbow. I started climbing at taster... Read more
A product review by James Turnbull. James Turnbull at Outside recently took the new Osprey Mutant 38 on a rigorous test in the... Read more