/ Westway climbing centre grades

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mountain god ross on 10 Feb 2002 - modem-3186.porcupine.dialup.pol.co.uk [webcacheB06a.cache.pol.co.uk]
french or english?
Igneous Wok on 10 Feb 2002 - pc149119.shef.ac.uk [vampire.shef.ac.uk]
In reply to mountain god ross:

Polynesian
mountain god ross on 10 Feb 2002 - modem-3186.porcupine.dialup.pol.co.uk [webcacheB06a.cache.pol.co.uk]
In reply to Igneous Wok:
really? how interesting.

how do they relate to those practised by french frogs or english pomms
Tim Shim on 10 Feb 2002 - host213-1-180-141.btinternet.com
In reply to Igneous Wok: Makes sense, wierd things happen in Preston
mountain god ross on 10 Feb 2002 - modem-3186.porcupine.dialup.pol.co.uk [webcacheB06a.cache.pol.co.uk]
In reply to Tim Shim:
wrong end of the country - it is in london
Igneous Wok on 10 Feb 2002 - pc149119.shef.ac.uk [vampire.shef.ac.uk]
In reply to mountain god ross:

> how do they relate to those practised by french frogs or english pomms

As in:

Pond traverse 6b+ FA Jeremy Fisher
Green Grocer's crack HVS 5a FA Russett Apple?
Tim Shim on 10 Feb 2002 - host213-1-180-141.btinternet.com
In reply to mountain god ross: I knew that. What's the one in POreston called? Westgate or something similar?
Igneous Wok on 10 Feb 2002 - pc149119.shef.ac.uk [vampire.shef.ac.uk]
In reply to mountain god ross: Polynesia? No mate - definately in Preston.
Tim Shim on 10 Feb 2002 - host213-1-180-141.btinternet.com
In reply to Igneous Wok: You lost me there
Igneous Wok on 10 Feb 2002 - pc149119.shef.ac.uk [vampire.shef.ac.uk]
In reply to Tim Shim: Sorry mate, I'm pretty confused myself. Just got back from the pub, made sense when I typed it...
mountain god ross on 10 Feb 2002 - modem-3186.porcupine.dialup.pol.co.uk [webcacheB06a.cache.pol.co.uk]
In reply to Tim Shim:
i am now confused
what are the grades in westway - french or english?
Tim Shim on 10 Feb 2002 - host213-1-180-141.btinternet.com
In reply to Igneous Wok: It's OK you forgven in that case. i thought I was being really think or something. Always a posibility with me!
Igneous Wok on 10 Feb 2002 - pc149119.shef.ac.uk [vampire.shef.ac.uk]
In reply to mountain god ross: Oh yeah, sorry forgot there was a point to this thread. Its usally pretty obvious isn't it? - most walls with french grades have stuff like 5+ which doesn't exist on the english system.
Tim Shim on 10 Feb 2002 - host213-1-180-141.btinternet.com
In reply to Igneous Wok: Can't you ask someone there?
mountain god ross on 10 Feb 2002 - modem-3186.porcupine.dialup.pol.co.uk [webcacheB06a.cache.pol.co.uk]
In reply to Tim Shim:
not really - i dont go
it is to prove a point
Igneous Wok on 10 Feb 2002 - pc149119.shef.ac.uk [vampire.shef.ac.uk]
In reply to mountain god ross: Ergghh, this is too much for my drowsy mind. What is the point you are trying to prove, i'm intersted now...
Tim Shim on 10 Feb 2002 - host213-1-180-141.btinternet.com
In reply to mountain god ross: just say whatever is correct to prove your point. Or, why not go there to find out? What is the point to be proven?
mountain god ross on 10 Feb 2002 - modem-3186.porcupine.dialup.pol.co.uk [webcacheB06a.cache.pol.co.uk]
In reply to Tim Shim:
Well a mate says he has led a 6c and he probably has but i am trying to prove him wrong because i am a bastard like that.

So if he has done 6c englich he is getting good and if it is french then he is getting worse
Tim Shim on 10 Feb 2002 - host213-1-180-141.btinternet.com
In reply to mountain god ross: in that case the grades are definetely French. I have no doubt about it, unless you want them to be English in which case .................
Will on 11 Feb 2002 - 212.36.174.169 whois?
In reply to mountain god ross:

Westway use the French system, but a 6c there could be anything from f5+ to 7a+
John Gibbons on 11 Feb 2002 - modem-114.anfauglith.dialup.pol.co.uk [webcacheW03b.cache.pol.co.uk]
In reply to mountain god ross:
The grades on all the leading and top roping walls are french.

The grades on all the bouldering are english.

The route setters used are all either known route setters (these would include Chris Plant, Ian Vickers, Andy Long) or are climbers who have been route setting in the more localised area, i.e. The Castle, The Climb who have all climbed at least E7. (these would include Liam Halsey, Kev "Noon", Jon Partridge)

Having said all that the grading is all over the place!!!!

The standard system we use is a single colour for hands, that same colour plus any features for feet.

Discs are not generally included as features.

Some on the climbs actually state the above in their description, some do not, which I admit is confusing. Adding to this confusion is the fact that re-setting has just begun, or should I say just finished on the main walls meaning that the grades listed are initially Chris's impression of how hard it is.

I would like to set up a team of climbers, one short, one tall, one female, who can work together, all climb the routes and then give a concensus as to the grade....Any takers?

In the meantime, take it as read that climbs are soft at the grade with a few notable exceptions.

Looking to the future, once a grading party has been set up I will look to also indicate the brit.tech grade for the hardest move on each climb.
MarkH - on 11 Feb 2002
In reply to John Gibbons:

John, if you need a one legged cripple in your team of climbers, I'll give it a go. No, being serious for a minute, I don't mind helping if you want, but I can probably only do Sunday afternoons.

Let me know.

Mark.

P.S. Had a great time in Frankenjura, the weather was great and so was the wedding. Tell you about it later if you want.
Jon D on 12 Feb 2002 - mailhost.smithsind-aerospace.co.uk
In reply to John Gibbons:

> <routesetters> who have all climbed at least E7.

John, on this point ... do you think people who climb at least E7 are really the most suitable for setting F4 and F5 climbs ? Or rather grading them. As you'll see from other posts I've made about the Westway I think it's the best place I've climbed at but as you accept the grading is a problem, and I think for the lower end climbs you need people who regularly climb at those grades to grade them ... lets be honest if you're good enough and strong enough to climb E7 do you really know if it F4 or F5 ... to you it was a set of stairs either way :-)

> The standard system we use is a single colour for hands, that same colour plus any features for feet.

Thanks for the clarification ... that would explain why some of the routes seemed so damn hard for their grade !!!!
>
> Discs are not generally included as features.

Does this include the 'large disks' on the right hand end of the main overhanging wall ?

Thanks for contributing and good luck.

Jon
ads.ukclimbing.com
Grant on 12 Feb 2002 - cache2.ubswarburg.com
In reply to John Gibbons:
> (In reply to mountain god ross)
> The grades on all the leading and top roping walls are french.

oh dear - and I thought I was getting better!!

> The standard system we use is a single colour for hands, that same colour plus any features for feet.

That explains a lot... thanks

> I would like to set up a team of climbers, one short, one tall, one female, who can work together, all climb the routes and then give a concensus as to the grade....Any takers?

Perhaps we could also have a grade book for people to either vote hard easy or just right at the grade??


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