UKC

Hi there everyone,

my name is Thomas Martin. I'm a third year recreation management student and I am writing mydissertation on performance coaching within climbing.Therefore I need some information from the climbing community about their opinions on the subject.

I attached a questionnaire below and I would really appreciate it, if you could take the time to fill it in.

Please email it to tommartin84@hotmail.com

Any help is much appreciated.

Thomas Martin
---------------------------------------------------------

Personnel coaching experiences

The aim of this questionnaire is to identify people’s experiences of coaching from an improving performance perspective.
This questioner is to find out what level of performance coaching you have received how it was given to you and how you think that it may be improved.

1)
Age? 8-12…. 12-18…. 18-21…. 21-30…. 30-35…. 35+….

2)
Have you ever received any Coaching for any sport at any level?
If so what sport?
…………………………………………………………………..

3)
What sort of coaching was it?

Performance….

Safety….

Introductory….

Technique….

Psychological….

Please give detail of what this involved techniques amount etc: …………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..

4)
Do you feel you benefited from this?

Y….

N….

If so why?
…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………..




5)
If you participate in climbing how many times have you been coached?

…...




6)
What did the coach cover?

Safety….

Rope work….

Weather….

Clothing….

Equipment….

Technique….

Strength….

Endurance….

Food i.e. eating to give your body more energy?
….

Training….

Psychological barriers….

Mental preparation….

7)
Was this person a recognised BMC instructor? ML SPA etc?
…..

8)
Do you feel that the coach made you a better technical climber?
….

9)
How does the coaching compare to other sports in which you have been coached?
…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………

10)
Do the BMC take an active enough role in performance coaching for climbing?
…..

11.)
Would you like to see climbing as an Olympic event?....

12)
If not why?
………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………………....

13) Does climbing deserve to be an Olympic event given its relatively poor performance coaching?....

In reply to Thomas Martin:




No


What evidence have you to make that statement - "given its relatively poor performance coaching"? Just because we in the UK have poor performance coaches that does not mean other countries have as well.

28yo

no traing ever

yes should be olympic sport.

why has it poor performance coaching?/evindence please!!


rich

In reply to beastofackworth:

That bit at the end does seem a bit weird. I mean what has the coaching got to do with it being an olympic event or not?

It's the climbing that would be an event, not the coaching.

In reply to Thomas Martin:
its not my opinion, its a questions that is to be answered and the results will eithier confirm or support the question why do you thik im doing a questioner?, to get results not a slating. and before you say anything im a trainee ml spa and kayak level 2 coach, i no this does not make me a world authority but im hardly going to slag off the industery im going to work in. Plus the question is in comparasion to kayaking which has an excellent performance coaching background, so the statement about poor perfomance coaching is in comparasion to that, not trying to say that all the climbing performance coaching is bad. And yes it is about the sport not the coaching, however most olympic events have a more active performance,
coaching than climbing and that is a fact.

In reply to Thomas Martin:
one more thing this disertation will form evidence to eithier confirm or deny this question, ill gladly send you a copy whenn its done. When you right 12,000 words about the subject we'll talk again.

In reply to Thomas Martin:
35+
No
n/a
n/a
never
n/a
n/a
n/a
n/a
no idea
no
It'll lead to hordes of people descending on crags and trashing them 'cos it's on the telly.
Absolutely no idea.

In reply to Thomas Martin:
PS Have you thought of posting this on Down the Pub forum?

In reply to Thomas Martin:

Do you not think the reason Kayaking has such good performance coaching might be because it has Olympic disciplines, just a thaught. Also i think you might be looking in the wrong place for info on climbing performance coaching as the majority of people on here (as well as most paddlers) don't compete, so won't have received that type of coaching, if any.

Or maybe I'm missing the point, if so ignore this.

In reply to Thomas Martin:
1 34
2 yes (iato,sword play)
3 all of the above
4 yes- meditative spaces
5 never
6 na
7 na
8 na
9 na
10 they stick their noses in too far in some areas and dont exist or give a sh%t in other areas
11 NO
12 because the olympics sux!
13 no lets keep the cretins off the crags

Uri

In reply to Thomas Martin:

You seem to take a very aggressive tone here in response to some constructive criticism about your questionnaire. The other replies do make fair comment about your last question.

In it, you appear to use an opinionated comment to try to influence the replies you get i.e. "given climbing's relatively poor performance coaching". Relative to what? And what do you mean by "poor"? Does this mean that you feel there is little funding to support coaching, or that the coaches themselves are not very good, or that there are not enough coaches available, or what?

Another, more general question for you - do you differentiate between coaching and training e.g. I've been trained as a summer ML and SPA instructor, but neither included any formal coaching (although there may have been some conversations with the instructor which were closer to coaching than training).

Another very minor point - you're not likely to get many responses relating to climbing in the 8-12, and 12-18 categories, but you could end up with many in the 35+ category. Is there any reason you've split up the age groups this way i.e why not have categories for 35-40, 40-45, 45-50 etc?