UKC

Lunge, slap, throw, jump, dyno?

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 Chris Fryer 12 Mar 2002
Is there any clear definition or division between any of these? Does it involve how many hands or feet have to stay in contact with the rock, or distance travelled?
Marc Chrysanthou 12 Mar 2002
In reply to Chris Fryer: I've just consulted Grewthyne (7th edition, 1921) again, and it seems pretty clear from his Glossary that the criterion that distinguishes the various terms is the number of attachments to the rock when essaying the move.

lunge: 1 hand, 1 foot.
slap: 2 hands, 1 foot.
throw: 1 hand, 0 feet.
jump: 2 hands, 0 feet.
dyno: 3 hands, 1 foot
not forgetting The Ottorini Variation (favoured by the mutant breed of Italian shepherd-climbers in a remote village in the Dolomites): 4 feet (the other 3 off the rock), and 3 feet (the other 2 hanging away from the rock).

Seriously though, isn't it that 'real' 'scientific' climbers dyno, whilst blundering, desperate, bumblies jump, or lunge - and boulderers slap ?
OP Chris Fryer 12 Mar 2002
In reply to Marc Chrysanthou: Possibly. Just realised I omitted snatch, and that in a climbing sense.
Fiend 12 Mar 2002
In reply to Marc Chrysanthou:

If one is allowed to be serious, Jason Myers (who may know a thing or two about dynos) did a defining list in OTE a while ago. Basically it involved the number of points of contact during a move. Something like:

3 POC - Slap
2 POC - Lunge?
1 POC - Jump
0 POC - Dyno

(Whether the 2 POC and 1 POC moves should be further divided according to which points are in contact...I dunno).

Amusingly he was quite prejudiced about climbers who do the "lower" dynos such as slaps, claiming it was due to a pathetic lack of strength. And then his Brad Pit dyno gets nimbly outwitted by a much more static method....pathetic lack of technique heh.

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