UKC

King Kong E1?

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 Bux 12 Jul 2005
Hello, just got back from the Wye Valley. Did King Kong at the GO wall, awesome route in awesome surroundings but seriously, that first section...HVS? I have never been so out of breath on a route, maybe it was the heat!

I reckon it's E1

Whatcha think?
D.M 12 Jul 2005
In reply to Bux:

E0 At most, it's never E1.
 Mark Morris 12 Jul 2005
In reply to D.M: Haven't done it since the overhang fell off, but it is a long route with a few tricky bits. The weight of ropes makes the top part of pitch one where it gets technical again quite difficult. I think it's been hinted at being E1 in the past. It would certainly feel that hard in this heat.

BTW, Only had access to 2 11mm ropes when I did it first, wish I was fit enough to carry 2 of them now, let alone climb 130 ft!

mark

PS. How difficult is the start now and has it cleaned up well?
OP Bux 12 Jul 2005
In reply to Mark Morris: The start is hard! Undercut hold and then power up. Not great footholds neither. It's pretty clean though, i wasn't sure where the block fell from.

I found it difficult to place much gear in the crack above the crux, just pushed for a rest spot!

Amazing place
 shane 12 Jul 2005
In reply to Bux: I've climbed a lot at Wintours and I believe that it now should be graded at E1 5c.
 nniff 12 Jul 2005
In reply to shane:

I thought the 1st pitch was a bit much for the grade. I seconded it and led the 2nd pitch. I thought the 2nd pitch was a delight, but that the 1st was dirty, struggly affair.
OP Bux 12 Jul 2005
In reply to nniff: second pitch was really good, loved the roof!
 The Pylon King 12 Jul 2005
In reply to Bux:

Start well hard since roof collapsed E1 defo
john alcock at home 12 Jul 2005
In reply to The Pylon King:
I thought E1 5c for the first pitch. Good gear though.
In reply to The Pylon King:
> (In reply to Bux)
>
> Start well hard since roof collapsed E1 defo
the roof was the crux as far as i remember, and it wasnt that easier ,beleive me.
it used to push me away all the time,it was a exausting move,to reach the top of it.
for me the start now look much easier,now with the roof gone, stray crack.,
photo of it with the roof on uk photo.

Mattress 12 Jul 2005
In reply to Bux:

Generally agreed that since the start fell down it's a steady e1 5c. The start looks grotty but is actually surprisingly clean.
OP Bux 12 Jul 2005
In reply to Mattress:
> (In reply to Bux)
>
> Generally agreed that since the start fell down it's a steady e1 5c. The start looks grotty but is actually surprisingly clean.

Cool, that would make it the hardest lead i've done do far (and it felt it), time to try an E2!?

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