UKC

Ive done a search but there seem to be a lot of conflicting uncertain opinions about this.
Can anyone tell me if its still HVS since part of the 1st pitc hfell off, or is it now significantly harder and or bolder and or looser? Soem poeople were suggesting E1 5c on one thread.
Im only interested in hearing from people who have actually done the route since the rockfall...
Cheers,
Si

In reply to Si dH:
I'm not surprised to hear that opinions vary.
I'd say it is now more straightforward, easier to protect, and more solid, but similar in difficulty.
The jamming crack can get quite muddy in winter, which makes it feel harder.

In reply to Si dH:

I don't think it was ever an easy HVS to start with, (the block that fell off was right in the way apparently) maybe now it's hard for HVS in a different way. I can understand why some people think E1 5c (I even saw E2 suggested at one point) - they can't jam - compared to other balancy-dainty-pick-your-way routes or even just the more climbing wall style `open' steep ones in the region. I upset someone by saying it's HVS, but it's not E1/2 compared to other E1/2 short battles. I reckon a grit HVS leader with a bit of stamina could do it, as other similar short bridgy roof cracky battles get HVS elsewhere, and after that it isn't tremendously sustained. Worst case scenario is you have to use a point of aid at the start. The route's still a million miles long, so it'd still be worthwhile like this. P.S. It can stay dry in the rain

In reply to Paz:
Excellent stuff, I had no idea the hard bit was a jamming crack, Im now feeling much better about it
Is it not hard in the groove above the crux though with no rests, or something? I thought that was how the block had made it harder by removing the rest?

In reply to Si dH:

It's not trivial, but not especially tiring. Or at least it tires out a different part of you - there're holds and you can bridge/chimney a bit.

In reply to Si dH: Many years ago, I did this route with a friend. I led the first pitch and he got the big corner. As I seconded the latter, I stepped right onto a biggish ledge to free a jammed wire (said friend's speciality), whereupon entire ledge fell off crag - Fortunately it was late in the day (dark in fact) and everyone else had left. Point is it was bloody loose for a three star classic!

In reply to Si dH: I tried the start before the block fell out and couldn't do it, but I did manage it after its demise. Brute force and fist jams. Carrying on up the crack after the start is quite hard work, & there's another balancey crux at the end of long 1st pitch. Sadly, we didn't have time to finish route.

In reply to Si dH:
E1 5b direct or E1 5a from the right which is much less strenuous but a bit bold. Its all solid enough now (for wintours).

Dave F