UKC

Using your own quickdraws at the MCC

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chris tan 12 Dec 2005
All the climbs at the Manchester Climbing Centre are equipped with a line of bolts. How come you don't seen any parties using their own quickdraws to lead routes that the MCC have not equipped with insitu QDs?

It would give leaders so much more to choose from.
 Richard Horn 12 Dec 2005
In reply to chris tan:

Most walls wont allow people to use their own draws for liability reasons i.e. what if they are unsafe then someone else jumps on the route with your draws up?
chris tan 12 Dec 2005
In reply to Richard Horn:
> someone else jumps on the route with your draws up?

I'll tell them, 'You don't really want to use my "tried, tested and well fallen on" dodgy equipment do you?'

mike swann 12 Dec 2005
In reply to Richard Horn:
> (In reply to chris tan)
>
> Most walls wont allow people to use their own draws for liability reasons i.e. what if they are unsafe then someone else jumps on the route with your draws up?

I have no problem with people using their own quickdraws for practice, but I'd expect them to take them out when being lowered, also for practice. I'd also expect them to stop anybody else using their equipment.
 Ridge 12 Dec 2005
In reply to Richard Horn:
> (In reply to chris tan)
>
> Most walls wont allow people to use their own draws for liability reasons i.e. what if they are unsafe then someone else jumps on the route with your draws up?

Really?
 Jimmy D 12 Dec 2005
In reply to Richard Horn:

Not my experience - at Leeds everyone uses their own QDs. You need to really as not many lines normally have them in situ. Same for Rochdale.
Chris Tan ver XLIX 12 Dec 2005
In reply to mike swann:
>
> I have no problem with people using their own quickdraws for practice, but I'd expect them to take them out when being lowered, also for practice. I'd also expect them to stop anybody else using their equipment.

Hi Mike,

Is this an official MCC response?

neil_jj 12 Dec 2005
In reply to Chris Tan ver XLIX:

The agreement says,

"Running belay attachments (runners) are already
provided at intervals on the lead walls so you do not need
your own ‘quick draws’. You must clip all the runners on
the route you are climbing."
Chris Tan ver XLIX 12 Dec 2005
In reply to neil_jj:

That doesn't say anything about the lines that are bolted but not equipped with "Running belay attachments". Just seeking some clarification here.

Can we use our own QDs on those lines? If we can, why aren't people doing it?
mike swann 12 Dec 2005
In reply to Chris Tan ver XLIX:
> (In reply to mike swann)
> [...]
>
> Hi Mike,
>
> Is this an official MCC response?

Er, no, sorry. I work at the Ridge, Swindon.
 King Rat 12 Dec 2005
In reply to Richard Horn:
> (In reply to chris tan)
>
> Most walls wont allow people to use their own draws for liability reasons i.e. what if they are unsafe then someone else jumps on the route with your draws up?

virtualy every wall ive been to, either have preplaced QD or expect you to bring your own for leading, and the only time im going to leave my own quick draws in place is if a mate is going to do the route. if some compleat stranger tried to jump in I think i would have something to say about it.
Calvin 12 Dec 2005
In reply to chris tan:

Another possible liability issue would be if someone dropped a quickdraw on someone below. Given the number of inattentive people wandering round at climbing walls who would sue the wall if a quickdraw fell and hit them.
 Pauline 12 Dec 2005
In reply to chris tan: I seem to remember being told that u aren't allowed to use your own QD at MCC we have bought the sprog some for Xmas and plan to go to Rock City to allow him to practise... but i might be wrong!!
last ascent 12 Dec 2005
In reply to Calvin:
> (In reply to chris tan)
>
> Another possible liability issue would be if someone dropped a quickdraw on someone below. Given the number of inattentive people wandering round at climbing walls who would sue the wall if a quickdraw fell and hit them.

that's kind of interesting point, although i'm sure i've seen plenty people using their own quickdraws at walls with no problems. but given the number of inattentive belayers out there it can't be too uncommon for climbers to fall on other climbers. does anyone know the legalities of this? i'm actually in australia at the moment and all the walls here make you sign a waiver and demonstrate that you can belay before letting you climb, but back in britain you could just show up at my local unsupervised bouldering wall and fall off at will. never actually seen anyone fall on another else (except a few climber and belayer mid-air collisions) but i imagine the legal ramifications could be more significant if it did happen in some places in britain.

 BelleVedere 12 Dec 2005
In reply to Richard Horn: Really? I Have take my own QD's to Kendal lots of times. You need to - lots of routes have neither toprop or insitu QD's

(its about a year since i climbed there so it may have changed)
 Pauline 12 Dec 2005
In reply to chris tan: Ok peeps this is the reply I got from MCC earlier today!

Hi,



Unfortunately you can’t use your own quick draws at the Centre, we are removing all bolt hangers in the next couple of weeks, so this should stop any confusion anyway.



Sorry!

Jo

Clear things up?

Pauline

chris tan 12 Dec 2005
In reply to Pauline:

Ho Hum! At least I've managed to lead everything under 6a before the clamp down.
esse_est_percipi 12 Dec 2005
In reply to chris tan:
The reason I was given by an instructor at the Glasgow wall was since any gear not clipped to the harness was classified as a 'loose object at height' i.e. in the transition from gear loop to hangar and therefore everyone in the building would need helmets, and a set radius of floor space beneath the climber would need to be cordoned off, as it is when holds are being bolted on for similar reasons. Something to do with insurance, I'm told.

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