This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
I did routes for the first time in a while at the weekend. It's still a great set of walls but the grades are still incredibly erratic and the route seting not as good as Warrington, the longer routes all seem to have relatively easy climbing except for one hard crux.
And who is that arse who works there? You know the one I mean!
And who is that arse who works there? You know the one I mean!
In reply to Tyler:
the tall silver haired bloke
or
the short dark long haired spectacled wearing one?
the tall silver haired bloke
or
the short dark long haired spectacled wearing one?
In reply to kms:
Why do you say them? Maybe it's just me but I'd have thought it was obvious, every time I go this bloke makes me think he's a bit odd.
Neither of the ones you mention but I'm not going to say any more as it is a bit unfair and I'd feel a bit bad singling him out, best forget that bit of my post.
Why do you say them? Maybe it's just me but I'd have thought it was obvious, every time I go this bloke makes me think he's a bit odd.
Neither of the ones you mention but I'm not going to say any more as it is a bit unfair and I'd feel a bit bad singling him out, best forget that bit of my post.
In reply to Tyler:
Up My Arse
There's a world that's like no other
Up my arse.
There's a big black hairy mother
Up my arse.
There's a privet and a thicket,
There's a dozen games of cricket,
There's a sofa, there's a dwarf,
There's a river, there's a wharf,
There's a bucket full of pike,
There's a vicar on a bike.
I think that you would like
It up my arse.
There's a badly wounded pigeon
Up my arse.
There's an oven and a fridge on
Up my arse.
There's a robust village squire
And a roaring fake log fire
And a pair of turtle doves,
Oh, I know that you would love
It up my arse.
There's a tiny Burmese pony
Up my arse.
There's a granny who's quite bony
Up my arse.
There's a haddock with a hat on,
A soldier with a baton,
A fish that's lost its key,
You really should come see
What's up my arse.
There's a roundabout with horses
Up my arse
There's a wealth of different sauces
Up my arse.
There's a ferret in a pickle,
Mr. Small and Mr.Tickle,
A rabbit and a gnome,
Oh, it really feels at home
Here up my arse
Up My Arse
There's a world that's like no other
Up my arse.
There's a big black hairy mother
Up my arse.
There's a privet and a thicket,
There's a dozen games of cricket,
There's a sofa, there's a dwarf,
There's a river, there's a wharf,
There's a bucket full of pike,
There's a vicar on a bike.
I think that you would like
It up my arse.
There's a badly wounded pigeon
Up my arse.
There's an oven and a fridge on
Up my arse.
There's a robust village squire
And a roaring fake log fire
And a pair of turtle doves,
Oh, I know that you would love
It up my arse.
There's a tiny Burmese pony
Up my arse.
There's a granny who's quite bony
Up my arse.
There's a haddock with a hat on,
A soldier with a baton,
A fish that's lost its key,
You really should come see
What's up my arse.
There's a roundabout with horses
Up my arse
There's a wealth of different sauces
Up my arse.
There's a ferret in a pickle,
Mr. Small and Mr.Tickle,
A rabbit and a gnome,
Oh, it really feels at home
Here up my arse
In reply to Tyler: If you dont like it why dont you stick to Warrington. I have always found the Staff at Manchester friendly and the routes are as consistant as any wall.
In reply to Tyler:
I agree, I find the grades can be all over the place and prefer the route setting at warrington.
On the plus side, though, I like the fact the walls go up to 18m and it's clean and there are lockers.
I guess setting good routes takes a lot of practice, but it should be hard to get a consensus from a few people before giving a grade to a new route.
I've done a 6a there that has felt like 6b+ and a 7b that didn't feel harder than 6c+.
I agree, I find the grades can be all over the place and prefer the route setting at warrington.
On the plus side, though, I like the fact the walls go up to 18m and it's clean and there are lockers.
I guess setting good routes takes a lot of practice, but it should be hard to get a consensus from a few people before giving a grade to a new route.
I've done a 6a there that has felt like 6b+ and a 7b that didn't feel harder than 6c+.
In reply to Tyler:
All the staff i've met at MCC have been friendly enough but I think I know who you're referring to. He is actually a nice bloke, but can be a bit officious & annoying when he's in "instructor mode".
All the staff i've met at MCC have been friendly enough but I think I know who you're referring to. He is actually a nice bloke, but can be a bit officious & annoying when he's in "instructor mode".
In reply to Hotbad Peteel:
It can't be 22m - I can lower off OK on a 40m rope. Plus when I used my 70m rope there, the middle marker was close to the belay device after lowering.
It can't be 22m - I can lower off OK on a 40m rope. Plus when I used my 70m rope there, the middle marker was close to the belay device after lowering.
In reply to Neil Binns: If the wall is 22m long then as it's overhanging, when you lower off you lower off less than the length of the wall. I reckon that explains it.
In reply to Jonathan:
well it's 25metres to the middle of the roof and it stops 3 metres short of it. That was measured with a lazer.
well it's 25metres to the middle of the roof and it stops 3 metres short of it. That was measured with a lazer.
In reply to Paul Boardman:
what? idiot!
no the building to the apex of the roof truss', where them big lights are. That were too high for the electricians to fit, they were too scared to hold the lights over their heads and fix them on.
http://www.hilti.co.uk/holuk/modules/prcat/prca_popupproductpic.jsp?OID=199...
what? idiot!
no the building to the apex of the roof truss', where them big lights are. That were too high for the electricians to fit, they were too scared to hold the lights over their heads and fix them on.
http://www.hilti.co.uk/holuk/modules/prcat/prca_popupproductpic.jsp?OID=199...
In reply to Tyler: Tyler if you want to post on this site and slag people off please tell us exactly who you mean or p*** off.
In reply to Jo S: Do you own the site? If not a post to the moderators may be more appropriate! If you are involved with MCC then why not e-mail tyler and ask him what he means? You may have a proplem you don't know about or Tyler may be being oversensitive?
In reply to zoobizooretta:
You've not een Austin Powers then? I think that's what he was refering to, nothing personal.
> what? idiot!
You've not een Austin Powers then? I think that's what he was refering to, nothing personal.
In reply to Jo S:
As I've said I think it's a great wall, and the people are pretty friendly. I also said I thought better of singling out this person (anymore) but I stand by what I said and if you'd really want I'll found out this persons name and put it here as that seems to be what you are asking me to do ('cos the alternative of just pissing off and not posting is not going to happen!)
As I've said I think it's a great wall, and the people are pretty friendly. I also said I thought better of singling out this person (anymore) but I stand by what I said and if you'd really want I'll found out this persons name and put it here as that seems to be what you are asking me to do ('cos the alternative of just pissing off and not posting is not going to happen!)
In reply to Tyler: I like the wall layout and find the routes and grades OK and the staff friendly but it is now a major victim of its own success - I have pretty much stopped going as the last few times it has been impossible to get a meaningful amount of climbing done due to the overcrowding. We need a second facility of the same size in Manc immediately!
P
P
In reply to Paul Atkinson:
Fear not, there are grand plans ahead for the expansion of MCC.
Fear not, there are grand plans ahead for the expansion of MCC.
In reply to Tyler:
Careful now, when I said pretty much the same thing a few months ago I was slated as some sort of heretic. I'll just repeat what I've said in the past, that it's a great place and I'm glad it's there, but the routes leave a lot to be desired, and aren't changed as frequently as they should be. Also, what is it with the number of spinners? Are the routesetters too weak to tighten them properly, or just plain lazy?
Careful now, when I said pretty much the same thing a few months ago I was slated as some sort of heretic. I'll just repeat what I've said in the past, that it's a great place and I'm glad it's there, but the routes leave a lot to be desired, and aren't changed as frequently as they should be. Also, what is it with the number of spinners? Are the routesetters too weak to tighten them properly, or just plain lazy?
In reply to Daz H:
There's nothing wrong with discussing things like that here, but I do think that if people have issues with any wall then they should raise them there as well as just having an online rant. That way they stand a better chance of getting something to happen about it.
> (In reply to Tyler)
>
> Careful now, when I said pretty much the same thing a few months ago I was slated as some sort of heretic.
>
> Careful now, when I said pretty much the same thing a few months ago I was slated as some sort of heretic.
There's nothing wrong with discussing things like that here, but I do think that if people have issues with any wall then they should raise them there as well as just having an online rant. That way they stand a better chance of getting something to happen about it.
In reply to DazH:
As a route setter (not at manchester) its very hard to please all of you and to get the grades on the climbs. with walls, as well as at crags, the routes are dependant on
a, who sets it and what style of climbing they generally prefer will have an influence on how they set routes.
b, will depends on who grades it for the same reasons but the biggest factor in trying to get the right grades is if your tall with a huge reach and can actually use technique, you will find it easier than someone who is smaller and has a smaller reach.
On this, climbers will never be pleased with all the routes they climb, inside or out and we will all find different climbs harder or easier depending on your stlye and your ability to use technique!
As for the spinners, I think that you need to pull your head out of your arse! spinners are part and parcel of climbing indoors and the reason that holds spin, particually at this time of year, is not to do with how hard you crank on the bolt as this just wrecks the nut on the back of the wall, it is actually to do with the temprature changes that take place between the wall and the holds (it can be up to 5 degrees in 1 day). This will have a huge effect as to whether the holds are tight on to the wall or not and thats why they spin.
Before slagging off the route setters and the grading, try to set some yourself, try grading them yourself and see what people think of your efforts and judgement! Above all of it, remember that without us, you wouldn't have any routes to climb in the first place!
As a route setter (not at manchester) its very hard to please all of you and to get the grades on the climbs. with walls, as well as at crags, the routes are dependant on
a, who sets it and what style of climbing they generally prefer will have an influence on how they set routes.
b, will depends on who grades it for the same reasons but the biggest factor in trying to get the right grades is if your tall with a huge reach and can actually use technique, you will find it easier than someone who is smaller and has a smaller reach.
On this, climbers will never be pleased with all the routes they climb, inside or out and we will all find different climbs harder or easier depending on your stlye and your ability to use technique!
As for the spinners, I think that you need to pull your head out of your arse! spinners are part and parcel of climbing indoors and the reason that holds spin, particually at this time of year, is not to do with how hard you crank on the bolt as this just wrecks the nut on the back of the wall, it is actually to do with the temprature changes that take place between the wall and the holds (it can be up to 5 degrees in 1 day). This will have a huge effect as to whether the holds are tight on to the wall or not and thats why they spin.
Before slagging off the route setters and the grading, try to set some yourself, try grading them yourself and see what people think of your efforts and judgement! Above all of it, remember that without us, you wouldn't have any routes to climb in the first place!
In reply to monkeyboy69:
I appreciate that grades are difficult to get right first time, but is it really that difficult to tell the difference between a 6b and 7a? At the Manchester wall I've seen instances of 6b+ being upgraded to 7a+ and 7b downgraded to 6c. Now I'm not against the odd sandbag but if like me you're coming back from injury, you need to know if the 6a your going to do is actually a 6a and not a 6c in disguise just so that you don't risk further injury.
>with walls, as well as at crags, the routes are dependant on
This is exactly the point, with a bit of imagination, it shouldn't be too difficult to set a route which isn't reach dependent (yes, I realise you can't do this 100%). Sometimes I wonder if some routesetters revel in the fact that punters like myself struggle up routes they've set just because they happen to have a mutant ape index.
A little bit defensive here I think, my comment was partly tongue in cheek, but are you really suggesting that temperature differences of only 5C can loosen a properly tightened bolt? If that's the case then I'm surprised any wall stays in business as it must cost them a fortune to re-tighten all the holds every morning or keep the heating on all night.
Sadly, I work for a living so spending precious climbing time frigging my way up and down a climbing wall with a bucket hanging from my harness isn't my idea of fun. And correct me if I'm wrong, but most routesetters do get paid, so is it unreasonable to expect them to actually do a decent job?
Hats off by the way to those who don't get paid, you can sandbag to your hearts content.
> (In reply to DazH)
>
> As a route setter (not at manchester) its very hard to please all of you and to get the grades on the climbs.
>
> As a route setter (not at manchester) its very hard to please all of you and to get the grades on the climbs.
I appreciate that grades are difficult to get right first time, but is it really that difficult to tell the difference between a 6b and 7a? At the Manchester wall I've seen instances of 6b+ being upgraded to 7a+ and 7b downgraded to 6c. Now I'm not against the odd sandbag but if like me you're coming back from injury, you need to know if the 6a your going to do is actually a 6a and not a 6c in disguise just so that you don't risk further injury.
>with walls, as well as at crags, the routes are dependant on
>
> a, who sets it and what style of climbing they generally prefer will have an influence on how they set routes.
>
> b, will depends on who grades it for the same reasons but the biggest factor in trying to get the right grades is if your tall with a huge reach and can actually use technique, you will find it easier than someone who is smaller and has a smaller reach.
> a, who sets it and what style of climbing they generally prefer will have an influence on how they set routes.
>
> b, will depends on who grades it for the same reasons but the biggest factor in trying to get the right grades is if your tall with a huge reach and can actually use technique, you will find it easier than someone who is smaller and has a smaller reach.
This is exactly the point, with a bit of imagination, it shouldn't be too difficult to set a route which isn't reach dependent (yes, I realise you can't do this 100%). Sometimes I wonder if some routesetters revel in the fact that punters like myself struggle up routes they've set just because they happen to have a mutant ape index.
> As for the spinners, I think that you need to pull your head out of your arse! spinners are part and parcel of climbing indoors and the reason that holds spin, particually at this time of year, is not to do with how hard you crank on the bolt as this just wrecks the nut on the back of the wall, it is actually to do with the temprature changes that take place between the wall and the holds (it can be up to 5 degrees in 1 day). This will have a huge effect as to whether the holds are tight on to the wall or not and thats why they spin.
A little bit defensive here I think, my comment was partly tongue in cheek, but are you really suggesting that temperature differences of only 5C can loosen a properly tightened bolt? If that's the case then I'm surprised any wall stays in business as it must cost them a fortune to re-tighten all the holds every morning or keep the heating on all night.
> Before slagging off the route setters and the grading, try to set some yourself, try grading them yourself and see what people think of your efforts and judgement! Above all of it, remember that without us, you wouldn't have any routes to climb in the first place!
Sadly, I work for a living so spending precious climbing time frigging my way up and down a climbing wall with a bucket hanging from my harness isn't my idea of fun. And correct me if I'm wrong, but most routesetters do get paid, so is it unreasonable to expect them to actually do a decent job?
Hats off by the way to those who don't get paid, you can sandbag to your hearts content.
In reply to monkeyboy69:
Have you climbed at Manchester Climbing Centre? We're not talking about the odd grade being a bit stiff but grades that are wrong. I've been on routes I'd expect to flash where I can't do 50% of the moves even after resting on the rope. Likewise I flash some routes tat I shouldn't manage. Obviously it doesn't matter too much but it's a bit annoying given how easy it is to fix.
Thank you
Have you climbed at Manchester Climbing Centre? We're not talking about the odd grade being a bit stiff but grades that are wrong. I've been on routes I'd expect to flash where I can't do 50% of the moves even after resting on the rope. Likewise I flash some routes tat I shouldn't manage. Obviously it doesn't matter too much but it's a bit annoying given how easy it is to fix.
> remember that without us, you wouldn't have any routes to climb in the first place!
Thank you
In reply to Tyler: Why dont you book one of our masterclasses then you might get good enough to do the routes
In reply to Jo S:
LOL, I'll bear that in mind.
Not really the point thought is it? Are you saying the grading isn't an issue?
LOL, I'll bear that in mind.
Not really the point thought is it? Are you saying the grading isn't an issue?
In reply to Tyler:
I've got to agree there does seem to be a bit of problem with relative grading and its possible got worse since with latest routes they seem have decided to make a point of grading harder without changing old routes
Specific examples:
Big stepped wall
Yellow route - originally 7b downgrade to 7a+, more like 7a
New white route - graded 6c+, definitely harder than yellow route.
Big wall right hand side
Blue route - 7b+ more like 7a+
New purple route - given 7a+, guess at 7b, certainly harder than the blue route.
It shouldn't be too difficult to ensure that if you have 2 routes on the same route that differ by 2 grades, then the easier one is the 'easier one'!
Just to note that I'm not saying a Manchester is a bad wall - I'll continue to vist regularly (until the weather improves anyway) - just that a few things could do with a bit of improving.
> (In reply to monkeyboy69)
>
> Have you climbed at Manchester Climbing Centre? We're not talking about the odd grade being a bit stiff but grades that are wrong. I've been on routes I'd expect to flash where I can't do 50% of the moves even after resting on the rope. Likewise I flash some routes tat I shouldn't manage. Obviously it doesn't matter too much but it's a bit annoying given how easy it is to fix.
>
>
> Have you climbed at Manchester Climbing Centre? We're not talking about the odd grade being a bit stiff but grades that are wrong. I've been on routes I'd expect to flash where I can't do 50% of the moves even after resting on the rope. Likewise I flash some routes tat I shouldn't manage. Obviously it doesn't matter too much but it's a bit annoying given how easy it is to fix.
>
I've got to agree there does seem to be a bit of problem with relative grading and its possible got worse since with latest routes they seem have decided to make a point of grading harder without changing old routes
Specific examples:
Big stepped wall
Yellow route - originally 7b downgrade to 7a+, more like 7a
New white route - graded 6c+, definitely harder than yellow route.
Big wall right hand side
Blue route - 7b+ more like 7a+
New purple route - given 7a+, guess at 7b, certainly harder than the blue route.
It shouldn't be too difficult to ensure that if you have 2 routes on the same route that differ by 2 grades, then the easier one is the 'easier one'!
Just to note that I'm not saying a Manchester is a bad wall - I'll continue to vist regularly (until the weather improves anyway) - just that a few things could do with a bit of improving.
In reply to Tyler: Hey Tyler
You never respond to these things but...
Currently in LA on my way back to Sydney, the bouldering in J-Tree was toadally awesome (as they used to say round ere) but it snowed and I ended up skiing in Big Bear.
Life as a climber is wierd, I spent the weekend sleeping in a bivi bag under a rock (Caveman at the Hidden Valley) then went to a business meeting in LA and am now am about to get on a business class Qantas flight.
Anyway to get to the point I am looking forward to checking out the Manc wall in a couple of weeks, I quite fancy bouldering on three continents in three weeks too.
I am really looking forward to catching up with you and Binns.
Oh by the way keep giving those rocktalk d-heads shit I absolutely luv it rite.
Archangel
You never respond to these things but...
Currently in LA on my way back to Sydney, the bouldering in J-Tree was toadally awesome (as they used to say round ere) but it snowed and I ended up skiing in Big Bear.
Life as a climber is wierd, I spent the weekend sleeping in a bivi bag under a rock (Caveman at the Hidden Valley) then went to a business meeting in LA and am now am about to get on a business class Qantas flight.
Anyway to get to the point I am looking forward to checking out the Manc wall in a couple of weeks, I quite fancy bouldering on three continents in three weeks too.
I am really looking forward to catching up with you and Binns.
Oh by the way keep giving those rocktalk d-heads shit I absolutely luv it rite.
Archangel
>
> Big stepped wall
> Yellow route - originally 7b downgrade to 7a+, more like 7a
> New white route - graded 6c+, definitely harder than yellow route.
>
That makes me feel a bit better - got my ass whipped by that white last night!
> Big stepped wall
> Yellow route - originally 7b downgrade to 7a+, more like 7a
> New white route - graded 6c+, definitely harder than yellow route.
>
Kate
In reply to Tyler:
I have climbed at the manchester wall a few times, yes the grades are reasonably hard or sometimes worng in your opinion but it will depend on who grades them! bear in mind the harder you climb, the easier you find routes of lesser grades! i.e., you all proberbly walk up 4s but struggle on 6c where as someone else will find 6c easy and struggle on 8a. its all relitive!
As for being paid to route set, I wish! Although for those not having done any route setting, its a fantastic training method! you get to use SRT, which is a useful tool, strength train cos you go up and down the ropes and try the climbs all day and improve your technique as you get to work on it whilst setting hard routes!
As for complaining about the grades, explain to the wall guys your opinions, even write them down or be even more pro active and offer to change the grades for them!
As for the temprature changes, it is an ongoing problem with some walls and depending on the building i.e. an old church, it is a continual problem which is hard to solve!
I have climbed at the manchester wall a few times, yes the grades are reasonably hard or sometimes worng in your opinion but it will depend on who grades them! bear in mind the harder you climb, the easier you find routes of lesser grades! i.e., you all proberbly walk up 4s but struggle on 6c where as someone else will find 6c easy and struggle on 8a. its all relitive!
As for being paid to route set, I wish! Although for those not having done any route setting, its a fantastic training method! you get to use SRT, which is a useful tool, strength train cos you go up and down the ropes and try the climbs all day and improve your technique as you get to work on it whilst setting hard routes!
As for complaining about the grades, explain to the wall guys your opinions, even write them down or be even more pro active and offer to change the grades for them!
As for the temprature changes, it is an ongoing problem with some walls and depending on the building i.e. an old church, it is a continual problem which is hard to solve!
In reply to monkeyboy69:
You seemed to have missed the point entirely. I'm not complaining that the grades are hard, the grades of some routes are ridiculously under graded and others over graded. If they were all "reasonably hard" that'd be fine as it suggests a level of consisitency which is lacking at the moment.
Jo S, who posted above, is manager of the wall I think but seems to think the problem is with me and gives the impression of being too defensive to lisen to suggestion. Also the issue was mentioned to the wall owner a while ago. Anyway it's not a problem important enough for me to keep whittering on about, it's most annoying because it'd be so easy to fix. It's certainly not enough to stop me going and I'd recommend anyone else to go as well, it's a really nice place to be which is unusual for a wall. The fact it's clean and not scruffy really shouldn't matter but it is something that makes it easier for me to drag my fat arse over there.
> yes the grades are reasonably hard or sometimes worng in your opinion
You seemed to have missed the point entirely. I'm not complaining that the grades are hard, the grades of some routes are ridiculously under graded and others over graded. If they were all "reasonably hard" that'd be fine as it suggests a level of consisitency which is lacking at the moment.
> As for complaining about the grades, explain to the wall guys your opinions, even write them down or be even more pro active and offer to change the grades for them!
Jo S, who posted above, is manager of the wall I think but seems to think the problem is with me and gives the impression of being too defensive to lisen to suggestion. Also the issue was mentioned to the wall owner a while ago. Anyway it's not a problem important enough for me to keep whittering on about, it's most annoying because it'd be so easy to fix. It's certainly not enough to stop me going and I'd recommend anyone else to go as well, it's a really nice place to be which is unusual for a wall. The fact it's clean and not scruffy really shouldn't matter but it is something that makes it easier for me to drag my fat arse over there.
In reply to Tyler:
Last time I sopke to John Dunne about it (after falling off something that was supposedly 6a & not being too happy about it) he agreed with me that the grades were a bit all over the place, but I think its all part of a new wall settling down, sure it'll get better. Anyway - I like Mancheser wall a lot!
Kate
Last time I sopke to John Dunne about it (after falling off something that was supposedly 6a & not being too happy about it) he agreed with me that the grades were a bit all over the place, but I think its all part of a new wall settling down, sure it'll get better. Anyway - I like Mancheser wall a lot!
Kate
In reply to Tyler:
I think I agree with just about everything you've said there. As to the grades being hard - up until recently it probably had generally the easiest lead grades of the walls I go to regularly (Manchester, Warrington, Liverpool). Above I gave specific examples of routes on the same ropes where the grades were completely wrong relative to each other. In the end its no a big deal - just causes us a bit of amusement, but it would seem to be very easy to fix. Nobody is expecting perfection - grading is always going to be inexact and dependent to some extent on and individuals strengths and weaknesses.
> (In reply to monkeyboy69)
>
> [...]
>
> [...]
I think I agree with just about everything you've said there. As to the grades being hard - up until recently it probably had generally the easiest lead grades of the walls I go to regularly (Manchester, Warrington, Liverpool). Above I gave specific examples of routes on the same ropes where the grades were completely wrong relative to each other. In the end its no a big deal - just causes us a bit of amusement, but it would seem to be very easy to fix. Nobody is expecting perfection - grading is always going to be inexact and dependent to some extent on and individuals strengths and weaknesses.
In reply to Clauso: isn't there room in there for an owl?
In reply to Tyler:
grades seem fine at mcc to me, the odd one is a bit off but generally they seem close enough.
anyway if you think you are climbing a 6b which turns out to be a 6c+ and you can`t complete it, just lower off and try something else. where is the harm or tragedy. most walls if enough people write their opinions on a route grade in the ideas/suggstions book, and they tend to agree it will probably be changed.
besides its only climbing on plastic and wood.
i think you need to relax and put things into perspective. maybe get some sex to carm you down. i am not offering.
grades seem fine at mcc to me, the odd one is a bit off but generally they seem close enough.
anyway if you think you are climbing a 6b which turns out to be a 6c+ and you can`t complete it, just lower off and try something else. where is the harm or tragedy. most walls if enough people write their opinions on a route grade in the ideas/suggstions book, and they tend to agree it will probably be changed.
besides its only climbing on plastic and wood.
i think you need to relax and put things into perspective. maybe get some sex to carm you down. i am not offering.
In reply to tafflewis:
Thank fcuk someone else has said this. Resin holds and resin panels, it's only training at the end of the day. Who cares what grade the route is realy, give or take a grade (look at 3 pebble slab for starters, how many ascents has it had and still no one can agree on the grade!)
As long as the routes are enjoyable and well thought out, which in the main they are at Manchester, what's the hasstle with grades? It is nice to have the odd soft touch (you know they are ) or blame the grade if you have failed on the route.
I have not managed to run a sub 7 minute mile on the tread mill at the local gym, I think they are not calibrated properly!
> (In reply to Tyler)
> besides its only climbing on plastic and wood.
> i think you need to relax and put things into perspective. maybe get some sex to carm you down. i am not offering.
> i think you need to relax and put things into perspective. maybe get some sex to carm you down. i am not offering.
Thank fcuk someone else has said this. Resin holds and resin panels, it's only training at the end of the day. Who cares what grade the route is realy, give or take a grade (look at 3 pebble slab for starters, how many ascents has it had and still no one can agree on the grade!)
As long as the routes are enjoyable and well thought out, which in the main they are at Manchester, what's the hasstle with grades? It is nice to have the odd soft touch (you know they are ) or blame the grade if you have failed on the route.
I have not managed to run a sub 7 minute mile on the tread mill at the local gym, I think they are not calibrated properly!
In reply to Ian Patterson:
Yellow/White anomaly on big stepped wall now fixed, white route now slightly easier than yellow, both very good routes. The purple route on Big wall is still harder then the Blue "7A(B)+" but there is no need to change either of the routes just the grade card at the bottom. Generally speaking I think the route quality is very good, with all the routes on the long steep wall serving as good training routes.
Yellow/White anomaly on big stepped wall now fixed, white route now slightly easier than yellow, both very good routes. The purple route on Big wall is still harder then the Blue "7A(B)+" but there is no need to change either of the routes just the grade card at the bottom. Generally speaking I think the route quality is very good, with all the routes on the long steep wall serving as good training routes.
In reply to tafflewis:
OK so you decided not to read the thread before posting so just for you I'll reprint the bits where I put things into perspective. From one of my posts "Obviously it doesn't matter too much but it's a bit annoying" and from another "Anyway it's not a problem important enough for me to keep whittering on about", now maybe you could tell me where I'm getting it out of perspective or why I need to carm (sic) down.
Obviously there isn't one in the same way that if you went to a restaurant and had a rubbish meal there would be no harm or tragedy but you might want to pass comment.
True and obviously that doesn't matter to you but plastic and wood is MCC's business so they probably shouldn't share your dismissive view. Like I've said it's not a big deal but most businesses value a bit of feedback (not sure if you've read the comments book at the wall but it really doesn't seem the place to write anything if you are more than 12 years old)
> i think you need to relax and put things into perspective.
OK so you decided not to read the thread before posting so just for you I'll reprint the bits where I put things into perspective. From one of my posts "Obviously it doesn't matter too much but it's a bit annoying" and from another "Anyway it's not a problem important enough for me to keep whittering on about", now maybe you could tell me where I'm getting it out of perspective or why I need to carm (sic) down.
> where is the harm or tragedy.
Obviously there isn't one in the same way that if you went to a restaurant and had a rubbish meal there would be no harm or tragedy but you might want to pass comment.
> besides its only climbing on plastic and wood.
True and obviously that doesn't matter to you but plastic and wood is MCC's business so they probably shouldn't share your dismissive view. Like I've said it's not a big deal but most businesses value a bit of feedback (not sure if you've read the comments book at the wall but it really doesn't seem the place to write anything if you are more than 12 years old)
In reply to Tyler:
I suggested a while back to one of the staff that they should have a feedback form on a clipboard at the bottom of each line. Or, an online routes database (a la rockfax) where people could leave their comments, although looking at their website it seems they're having trouble just putting together a decent static html site nevermind an online routes database. At least this way it wouldn't be necessary to constantly moan at the staff or JD about the routes.
> (In reply to tafflewis)
> True and obviously that doesn't matter to you but plastic and wood is MCC's business so they probably shouldn't share your dismissive view. Like I've said it's not a big deal but most businesses value a bit of feedback (not sure if you've read the comments book at the wall but it really doesn't seem the place to write anything if you are more than 12 years old)
I suggested a while back to one of the staff that they should have a feedback form on a clipboard at the bottom of each line. Or, an online routes database (a la rockfax) where people could leave their comments, although looking at their website it seems they're having trouble just putting together a decent static html site nevermind an online routes database. At least this way it wouldn't be necessary to constantly moan at the staff or JD about the routes.
In reply to Tyler:
Haven't been to Manchester yet but I can recommend both Sheffield walls where I have climbed for years. Both the Foundry and the Edge have excellent route setters. Spinners are very rare (and the temperatures change here as much as anywhere else). The grades are fair and mostly consistant with occasional anomallies which just add to the fun.
Haven't been to Manchester yet but I can recommend both Sheffield walls where I have climbed for years. Both the Foundry and the Edge have excellent route setters. Spinners are very rare (and the temperatures change here as much as anywhere else). The grades are fair and mostly consistant with occasional anomallies which just add to the fun.
In reply to Tyler: Chatted to JD about this issue last night and he was aware of some inconsistency in grades. He commented that their are means of letting the MCC know about issues like this (feedback/ board in MCC)and was genuinly interested in the feedback. Within minutes the grades of some of the routes were altered. EG's of this are the R hand side of the big wall - purple and blue routes, changed to 7b. Four or five lines had grade changes.
Rather than blathering on about this on here....just let them know. Businesses that are well run are usually very keen for feedback. Equally so, there seems to be an element of some in the MCC taking this feedback to personaly. JD certainly didn't.
Rather than blathering on about this on here....just let them know. Businesses that are well run are usually very keen for feedback. Equally so, there seems to be an element of some in the MCC taking this feedback to personaly. JD certainly didn't.
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Elsewhere on the site
Fri Night Vid Le Toit de Ben - Quebec 1958
This week's Friday Night Video whisks us back to Val-David, Quebec, in the Autumn of 1958. Two daring young climbers embark on the ascent of a route that seemed unattainable, resembling a roof suspended in the air, defying all the conventions of the time....
3 May
Loading Notifications...