UKC

Recommendations for routes from VDiff to E2 where I absolutely have to chimney or offwidth - no holds allowed on the nasty bit.

Cheers

In reply to Si dH:
I could also do with a bit of advice in this hideous area. Having had a largely successful trip to Yosemite last summer it would have been nice to get a bit of practice in on the blighters before being confronted by the squeeze from hell on pitch 21 of regular route on half dome.
Yes I know its only about 10ft but its 10ft of unnaturalness (my mate led the previous chimney pitches 13-15!)
Cracking route though!
Were off again next year to scare ourselves silly on the nose - so some practice for the texas flake would be nice.

In reply to Si dH:

Peapod is a classic, and Trident at Wimberry is worth a look. Theres a couple of easier (Vdiff ish) offerings at Gardoms.

The first pitch of Shadrach stops a few wannabe VS leaders.

Dolphin Cracks at Sennen are good as well but I think they can be laybacked by the more confident than me !

In reply to GrahamD:

Opening pitches of West Flank Route on Arran

Cheers

In reply to Chris McDaid:

I'd forgotten that one - you are stirring memories of getting scratched to hell in that V groove chimney thing.

In reply to Si dH:

Curbar Circuit

Keepers Crack - The unavoidable grovel can be avoided and is quite short. A good warm-up.
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=1574

The Buckle family - short, soloable. I'm not sure if they are protectable. Anyone?
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=1505
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=1505

Sorrel's Sorrow - the hard bit involves pulling on a hold (boo-hiss) but the crack above is a satisfyingly awkward width.
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=1494

Inch Crack - warm-up for..
Little Innominate
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=1551

Hercules - 5a-ish with a poor small cam, HVS if you trust it, E1 if you don't. On no account to be laybacked.
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=6201

Peapod - quite a tough HVS, getting off the ground isn't easy either.
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=1598

Left Eliminate - Several ways to do this, all quite strenuous. Quite hard for a move or two but all over quite quickly.
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=1596

Elder Crack - the proper way (no cheating face holds please)
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=1572

Right Eliminate - 5.9
http://www.rockfax.com/databases/r.php?i=1601

Now head for Yosemite or Utah.

In reply to Si dH: If you're near the Cobbler, I seem to remember a nice greasy one there.

In reply to Si dH:

Thouroughly reccommend Strapiombo at Pant Ifan, Tremadog. Not the horror that the old guide made out ("Gibber up the chimney to the top. A nightmare. HVS -E3??") but at least it hasn't become polished.

Hard Work but no more than HVS with a big cam to push into the depths, scarier otherwise. It's a narrow chimney, gently flared both outwards and downwards, so it's constantly trying to spit you out, and you have to move further out the higher you climb!

In reply to duncan:
Cheers for the list Duncan, looks good. Ive no doubt Id find it pretty tough

In reply to Si dH:

Kern Knotts Crack
(you can cheat on this one)

In reply to Si dH:
Sobrenada (VS) on Eagle Crag, Grisedale. Pitch 2 has a mildly worrying step across followed by a harder-than-it-looks-from-below chimney.
Square Chimney (S) at Almscliff is a classic of its kind which you have to back and foot (I'll now get told it's an easy layback, or Chris Craggs will say it's a jamming crack or something).
I seem to remember Sail Chimney at Birchen being another back and foot job.
And there's that shiny chimney pitch on Milestone Buttress Direct.

In reply to Si dH: That crack on the Gribyn Facet at Ogwen whose name I have forgotten - Severe anyway with some holds but a lot of tight chimney-udging, if you can get in it that is.

Ben

In reply to Si dH:

Crack of Doom at Wharncliff. Horrible HS offwidthing!! (In a 'fun' way!!)

In reply to Si dH: monolith crack.... yeah man!! no way not to chimney that one!

somewhere above Ogwen... can't remember crag name.. erhas somebody else could enlighten

In reply to Si dH: Seahorse - Chair Ladder. A minor gem.

In reply to TN:

I keep looking at that one, before turning round and walking quickly in the other direction...

In reply to Si dH:

A question I have always wanted to ask. Which is harder, Peapod or Texas Flake?

Or is there a UK chimney the same grade as Texas Flake?

In reply to duncan:

And get absolutely spanked. Lets face it the best practice would be to shut yourself in a small, tight cupbord for a few hours. It's also uncomfortable and you won't get anywhere. And as it's dark you'll have the added and invaluable experience of being stuck in one in the dark.

Steve

In reply to Si dH: I din't think that Peapod was much of a classic offwidth. Now Brimham has some true horror shows that will set you up for anything... Desperation, HVS, quote from 89 guidebook: 'Large Friends help - one above pulling and one below pushing is best'

In reply to Si dH:

Actually, if you're in the London area you could do a lot worse for training than go down to High Rocks and top rope a lot of those very smooth chimneys - they come in all widths, and typically involve fairly pure chimneying techniques.

In reply to Si dH:

On reflection, probably one of the best places in the whole country to refine your chimneying techniques, all at one roadside crag and with a minimum of faffing about.

In reply to Si dH:
I would agree with the Southern Sandstone suggestion. Also, Hercules Crack at Stanage meets your criteria. I saw an E2 leader having a real fight on it.

In reply to Si dH: You could do worse than to try Roof Route at Burbage Saaf. VS4b/c. I tried it in the freezing cold a while back and found it very interesting. Swimming on a route miles above protection was a new one for me...

In reply to Si dH:
You probably did it long ago, but I find Silver Crack at Froggatt a pig.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

My advice? Trousers, not shorts. That's all I can say (although I may have done it 'wrong'...)