/ NEWS: Neil Gresham solos The Flying Dutchman E7, Lundy

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Michael Ryan - on 11 Sep 2006
Neil Gresham took advantage of good tide conditions to make an impressive solo of The Flying Dutchman E7 on Lundy.

Story in the news section of UKClimbing.com

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
sutty on 11 Sep 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

DWS? It looks from the picture you need to be accurate at falling off to hit water.
Adam Lincoln - on 11 Sep 2006
In reply to sutty:

Yes, hence the S grades in use nowadays. DWS isnt always safe.
Mike Stretford - on 11 Sep 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I wander what sport grade the climb would get?
sutty on 11 Sep 2006
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

After nasty landings off tre branches and diving boards in water DWS is off my list of things to do. I do know one in the IOM that may not have had a DWS yet if you are interested?

http://www.isle-of-man.com/sport/climbing/pistol.htm
Magic roundabout.

http://www.isle-of-man.com/sport/climbing/calf.htm

Fourth Dimension is supposed to be excellent and may be another DWS. Unfortunately missed out on the FA as a rope of three was a bit much on unknown ground.
mark reeves - on 11 Sep 2006
In reply to sutty:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> DWS? It looks from the picture you need to be accurate at falling off to hit water.

I don't think the guy in the picture is on the route Neil Climbing, I think it is nearer the overhanging arch by the sounds of the news report? And the tide was probably in a bit!
woodster on 11 Sep 2006 - client-82-3-95-163.manc.adsl.virgin.net
In reply to Papillon:

The route is on the other side of the arch from the photo, there are no routes, yet, on the underside of the arch. He soloed the first pitch, reconed to be about 7c. The tides were massive - around 8.5m - and the route is above a deep channel - so as safe as DWSing gets.
Tom, UKC News Editor - on 11 Sep 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Also last week, Nic Sellers on-sighted (with ropes) Tim Emmett's E7 next to Antiworlds. Nic thought it more like E6 and F7b climbing, rather than E7 and F7c. He on-sighted four other E6s.

Nic flashed The Flying Dutchman in 2003 (with ropes...)
Fiend - on 11 Sep 2006
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

Bon efforts all round!
whispering nic - on 11 Sep 2006
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
Is this the same route as 'Flying the Colours' posibly minus a Gibson bolt?
Paul Ha on 11 Sep 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
This is all a bit inaccurate I'm afraid. Neil soloed the firt pitch only of the Flying Dutchman and traversed off onto HVS ground, apparently DWS 1 7c and very impressive. Also Nic Sellars 1 pitch ascent was in 2003 not 1995.
Paul Harrison
Adam Lincoln - on 11 Sep 2006
In reply to whispering nic:

No
Michael Ryan - on 11 Sep 2006
In reply to Paul Ha:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> This is all a bit inaccurate I'm afraid. Neil soloed the firt pitch only of the Flying Dutchman and traversed off onto HVS ground, apparently DWS 1 7c and very impressive. Also Nic Sellars 1 pitch ascent was in 2003 not 1995.
> Paul Harrison

I think you will find that that is what is says Paul.

Cheers,

Mick ; 0 )

whispering nic - on 11 Sep 2006
In reply to Adam Lincoln: Can u be a bit more specific - i.e. where does that route go?
woodster on 12 Sep 2006 - client-82-3-95-163.manc.adsl.virgin.net
In reply to whispering nic:

It traverses out to and then follows the line of the arete in the photo.

The desperate, unrepeated, infinitely desirable and highly under-rated route 'Kulus' reaches the traverse directly from the groove below at E6 6c.
Dr Avid - on 13 Sep 2006
In reply to woodster: oh WOW its THAT guy from the cover of that magazine!!! You are like totally rad dude, I've got you on my bedroom wall, your clean living way of living has inspired me to change my decadent ways and follow you in the Service of Christ. Can you electro mail me your autograph?
DAVETHOMAS90 - on 14 Sep 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Can we have a bit more realism in the reportage on UKC please. I spoke with Nick White last night (followed him on the first ascent), and we both agreed that the first pitch was E5 6b or f7b max. People like to omit all sorts of important detail when reporting DWS ascents - for example, safely jumping off low down on a route, in order to avoid what may be a considerable amount of scary climbing above.

Dave T.
Michael Ryan - on 14 Sep 2006
In reply to DAVETHOMAS90:

News item updated Dave. Thanks.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

Mick
Tom, UKC News Editor - on 14 Sep 2006
In reply to DAVETHOMAS90:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> Can we have a bit more realism in the reportage on UKC please. I spoke with Nick White last night (followed him on the first ascent), and we both agreed that the first pitch was E5 6b or f7b max.

Er, it's usually the climbers overhyping French grades of trad routes and not the journos.
woodster on 14 Sep 2006 - client-82-3-95-163.manc.adsl.virgin.net
In reply to Dr Avid:

Firstly, what relevance does your post have to the original thread?

Secondly, what makes you think I am, in any way, religious?
DAVETHOMAS90 - on 15 Sep 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Re other Lundy activity, does anyone have any info on Neil Dixon's impressive (onsight?)ascent of the hanging central arete on Two Legged Buttress? Fantastic line.

Dave T.
woodster on 15 Sep 2006 - 82-32-118-61.cable.ubr03.hawk.blueyonder.co.uk
In reply to DAVETHOMAS90:

He abbed it, cleaned it, fell off it first go, got it second. Not sure of the grade, Neil (Youth) was being typically understated and I wouldn't want to stick my neck out on this forum and quote him wrongly. Not sure of the name, Reticent Man was a fitting suggestion.

Youth also removed the bolt on Intensive Care and reclimbed it, and did a new route, maybe E7, somewhere else. Pickford and Dr Garthwaite did a new two pitch E5 in Starship Zawn and Woodburn did Out Come the Freaks in the Black Hole without the bolt (Now hammered flat as corroded) at a similar grade. Harry Pennells climbed Some Crack in Nine Toed Zawn, an excellent (they say) HVS that looks like E5! Some other stuff was climbed too.

Fine effort all round - conditions were rubbish for much of the two weeks.

Amen.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Dr Avid - on 15 Sep 2006
In reply to woodster: I knew it :)

This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.