/ NEWS: Good News from North Wales
Read the full report in the news at UKClimbing.com
Thats a good question. At present I am steering clear of routes like Heading The Shot, although I am sure that they will eventually be replaced. At repsent the hangers have been threaded with tape by someone. Which means that the joy of trying to fit a karabiner through the tiny wee hole in the angle iron.
At present I am keeping a fully up to date list of re-equipped routes on my website until the new guide is written. There is a link elsewhere, but I have put one here as well.
Does that mean they will re- equip in a style that mimics the run out style of the original, or will they be adding extra bolts to the routes? Never climbed there but I have heard of deck outs possible if the second bolt isn't clipped before a fall etc.
For instance, I don't see anyone putting a bolt lower than the first one at 22m on Raped By Affection. Nor do I see anyone changing the overall character of the more classic routes.
There are a few routes that may well have additional bolts added, these are routes that have been all but forgotten about or been unclimbed for some time. They certainly won't be Euro style 3m spacing
Do they heck mke the route, it's a bolt protected route with awkward clips, best thing to do is to make the clips less awkward so people can enjoy the climbing otherwise you are just artificially making the climbing more difficult. If that's what you want to do you may as well put a big spike at the bottom to make getting to the first bolt more 'interesting', oh, hold on..........
> Do they heck mke the route, it's a bolt protected route with awkward clips, best thing to do is to make the clips less awkward so people can enjoy the climbing otherwise you are just artificially making the climbing more difficult. If that's what you want to do you may as well put a big spike at the bottom to make getting to the first bolt more 'interesting', oh, hold on..........
Big spike at bottom - hmmmmmmmmmm........... like your thinking - esp. if they don't clip the bolts!
Mark, well done on the re-equipping and working on the new guide.
I have a a question re: grades for the bathtime wall in Vivian Quarry - the UKC logbook database has them all the grade higher than they are in the current guidebook (e.g. Soap on a Rope gets E5 instead of E4).
Are they going to be officially upgraded in the new guide, or did the person who entered them all into the database have a wierd moment and put them in wrong?
You are right there mate.
Heading the Shot with easier to clip bolts won't be the same.
I believe, although many Slate route have bolts for protection, they are not sport routes(granted some obviously are) and so great care should be taken with the rebolting process to ensure they keep the unique style currently found.
Turning Raped.. into a clip-up sport route - wrong
Replacing the bolt on Raped.. - fine
Replacing the bolts on Heading the Shot with standard bolts will take away some of the character of the climb, but not the climbing. Which would be ashame.
I'm confident that the Reeves at al will do a grand job with the bolts and new guide anyhow.
from the article "payable to N W Slate"
good effort guys, will send something ASAP, though hopefully it's more of a rebolting than a retrobolting effort.
We're getting there..
Have been involved with the rebolting, with Mark and Chris, Its certainly good work, with the looning the tube area being a top evening venue.
My job's mainly been questing round the quarries, visually inspecting the bolts so we can have a triage going on (heading the shot has some of the most meatiest bolts in the quarries, they may even be over 12mm!) and a bit of rebolting (the burning's one of mine) other than that I've the enviable task of cleaning up after reeves, once we've learnt how to tidily remove the offending blobs of rust..
Come and Play
no worries, I'm dim retro, just after common sense when it come to some of the esoteric, not been climbed in 20yrs cos the 1st asscentionist was on acid, sort of thing. Don't mess with a classic, And I've a very broad view of classics...
when i recently replaced my quickdraws i spent ages in the shop working out which were the narrowest, specifically for heading the shot, so i don't have the 'mare we had last time - how sad am I!
I thought that was the whole point.
I remember fumbling to get the krab into the bolt, then the clip and I used to imagine slidng down the rock and catching my leg on one of the pieces of angle iron. Added to the whole experience.
Sanitise it if you want to, i did it when it was hard and scary so I'm not fussed.
Good stuff, this is good news, particularly if as planned you retain the character of the routes. Well spaced fixed gear with huge fear factor is part of that character, but on the other hand, shite fixed gear is pointless IMO.
Can't think of anything more sanitary than you heckling people on the internet when you don't actually climb anymore.
Postal donations have been recieved in North Wales and the shops up here are also reporting very good response to the fund raising effort.
will keep everyone uptodate with progress rebolting efforts Plan a good posting late october with details of rebolted routes.
Chck Mark Reeves site for weekly updates/
Big thanks to all donators
Keep the donations coming
Ha, ha, but I'm back! On the sanitised, grid bolted, characterless French Limestone near my house.
Done (me) and done (cider nut). Gotta support the slate!
I was thinking of making a reasonable size donation if you'll put 3 or 4 bolts for a project of mine... Can I call you to discuss it with you? Should I call V12?
If it is reasonably hassle free you might well be on! So you don't think I am diddling you, just tell me the area, I'll try and guess the project!
The best donation is time! Money is needed for buying the hard-wear but all the installation time is voluntary.
If anyone can dedicate some quality time get in touch with myself, Mark or th lads at V12
Re the bolts on Heading the Shot: they're certainly solid - I know the guy who made the hangers. I thought the obvious way to deal with the narrow holes was to drop a nut down through the hanger and clip that instead. I'd be pretty sad to see Hugh's hangers being scrapped.
I am not sure what the rock is like on that side, I think it might be pretty broken, but will look when I am next up there.
I'll try to give you a ring tomorrow - I got your number from V12. I'll explain exactly where they need to be... It should be quite obvious. Thanks!
There size though is simply shocking, if you visit the www.groundupclimbing the top news item has a picture of the old bolt vs the new bolts. The are twice the diameter and double the length.
I shuddered when I saw it, thinking of the lobs I had taken onto these 'toys'.
There is a link in the news item.
My hardest ever lead was an onsite of Watch Me Wallaby, because I had the old guide that described the bolts being in Peter Pan, which is the route I wanted to do. I thought "I'm buggered if I'm falling off this - it's only 5b". Looking forward to doing Peter Pan at last!
There are two rotues nearby these that aren't in the guide. Gerboa Racer and Patio Doors of Perception, climbed by Rob Mirfin and friends a few years back.
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