/ NEWS: Good News from North Wales

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Michael Ryan - on 13 Sep 2006
Chris Parkin reports on some stirling work on Welsh slate.

Read the full report in the news at UKClimbing.com

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
Ed Booth - on 13 Sep 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Thats cool, but does that mean that Heading The Shot will lose those ancient chunks of bed. I think its a good thing in all. If you get to a bit of gear, you want it to count, especially when you are on a spicy slate runnout! Cool!! ED
mark reeves - on 14 Sep 2006
In reply to boothy: Hi Boothy
Thats a good question. At present I am steering clear of routes like Heading The Shot, although I am sure that they will eventually be replaced. At repsent the hangers have been threaded with tape by someone. Which means that the joy of trying to fit a karabiner through the tiny wee hole in the angle iron.
mark reeves - on 14 Sep 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Hi Mick

At present I am keeping a fully up to date list of re-equipped routes on my website until the new guide is written. There is a link elsewhere, but I have put one here as well.

http://web.mac.com/mark.reeves/iWeb/Markreevesinstruction1/Safe%20Slate.html
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Does that mean they will re- equip in a style that mimics the run out style of the original, or will they be adding extra bolts to the routes? Never climbed there but I have heard of deck outs possible if the second bolt isn't clipped before a fall etc.

Davie
mark reeves - on 14 Sep 2006
In reply to I am the God of Strathyre: It is very much a case by case basis.

For instance, I don't see anyone putting a bolt lower than the first one at 22m on Raped By Affection. Nor do I see anyone changing the overall character of the more classic routes.

There are a few routes that may well have additional bolts added, these are routes that have been all but forgotten about or been unclimbed for some time. They certainly won't be Euro style 3m spacing
Glyn Jones - on 14 Sep 2006
In reply to mark reeves: please, please, please leave the homemade bolts on Heading the Shot! Purleez!!!!!!!
Tyler - on 14 Sep 2006
In reply to Glyn Jones:

Why?
C Tomkins on 14 Sep 2006 - 213.2.193.162 whois?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: if i send a cheque who is it payable to? is it NW Slate Llysfaen
Glyn Jones - on 14 Sep 2006
In reply to Tyler: cos they make the route! And I want to repeat it in the old style anyway
Tyler - on 14 Sep 2006
In reply to Glyn Jones:

Do they heck mke the route, it's a bolt protected route with awkward clips, best thing to do is to make the clips less awkward so people can enjoy the climbing otherwise you are just artificially making the climbing more difficult. If that's what you want to do you may as well put a big spike at the bottom to make getting to the first bolt more 'interesting', oh, hold on..........
Glyn Jones - on 14 Sep 2006
In reply to Tyler:
> (In reply to Glyn Jones)
>
> Do they heck mke the route, it's a bolt protected route with awkward clips, best thing to do is to make the clips less awkward so people can enjoy the climbing otherwise you are just artificially making the climbing more difficult. If that's what you want to do you may as well put a big spike at the bottom to make getting to the first bolt more 'interesting', oh, hold on..........

Big spike at bottom - hmmmmmmmmmm........... like your thinking - esp. if they don't clip the bolts!
Alun - on 14 Sep 2006
In reply to mark reeves:
Mark, well done on the re-equipping and working on the new guide.

I have a a question re: grades for the bathtime wall in Vivian Quarry - the UKC logbook database has them all the grade higher than they are in the current guidebook (e.g. Soap on a Rope gets E5 instead of E4).

Are they going to be officially upgraded in the new guide, or did the person who entered them all into the database have a wierd moment and put them in wrong?
Enty - on 14 Sep 2006
In reply to Glyn Jones:
You are right there mate.
Heading the Shot with easier to clip bolts won't be the same.

The Ent
martin k on 14 Sep 2006 - 213.2.193.162 whois?
In reply to Enty: "heading the shot" with difficult to clip homemade bolts that are twenty odd years old...a classic in the making! if there are bolts, they might as well be good ones, eh? if you want fixed equipment that snaps when you fall on it, i can point you at plenty on south stack.

cheers!
panad - on 14 Sep 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I believe, although many Slate route have bolts for protection, they are not sport routes(granted some obviously are) and so great care should be taken with the rebolting process to ensure they keep the unique style currently found.

Turning Raped.. into a clip-up sport route - wrong
Replacing the bolt on Raped.. - fine

Replacing the bolts on Heading the Shot with standard bolts will take away some of the character of the climb, but not the climbing. Which would be ashame.

I'm confident that the Reeves at al will do a grand job with the bolts and new guide anyhow.

Well in
richardh - on 15 Sep 2006
In reply to C Tomkins:

from the article "payable to N W Slate"


good effort guys, will send something ASAP, though hopefully it's more of a rebolting than a retrobolting effort.
hoseyb - on 16 Sep 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

We're getting there..

Have been involved with the rebolting, with Mark and Chris, Its certainly good work, with the looning the tube area being a top evening venue.

My job's mainly been questing round the quarries, visually inspecting the bolts so we can have a triage going on (heading the shot has some of the most meatiest bolts in the quarries, they may even be over 12mm!) and a bit of rebolting (the burning's one of mine) other than that I've the enviable task of cleaning up after reeves, once we've learnt how to tidily remove the offending blobs of rust..

Come and Play

Hose
hoseyb - on 16 Sep 2006
In reply to richardh:

no worries, I'm dim retro, just after common sense when it come to some of the esoteric, not been climbed in 20yrs cos the 1st asscentionist was on acid, sort of thing. Don't mess with a classic, And I've a very broad view of classics...
In reply to martin k:

when i recently replaced my quickdraws i spent ages in the shop working out which were the narrowest, specifically for heading the shot, so i don't have the 'mare we had last time - how sad am I!

GLTMD
ads.ukclimbing.com
Enty - on 17 Sep 2006
In reply to martin k:
> (In reply to Enty) "heading the shot" with difficult to clip homemade bolts that are twenty odd years old...a classic in the making! if there are bolts, they might as well be good ones, eh? if you want fixed equipment that snaps when you fall on it, i can point you at plenty on south stack.
>
> cheers!

I thought that was the whole point.
I remember fumbling to get the krab into the bolt, then the clip and I used to imagine slidng down the rock and catching my leg on one of the pieces of angle iron. Added to the whole experience.
Sanitise it if you want to, i did it when it was hard and scary so I'm not fussed.

The Ent

Fiend - on 17 Sep 2006
In reply to mark reeves:

Good stuff, this is good news, particularly if as planned you retain the character of the routes. Well spaced fixed gear with huge fear factor is part of that character, but on the other hand, shite fixed gear is pointless IMO.
Slacker-Jon on 19 Sep 2006 - 87.114.7.241.bbplus.thn-ag1.dyn.plus.net
In reply to Enty: Towel.

Can't think of anything more sanitary than you heckling people on the internet when you don't actually climb anymore.
Chris Parkin - on 20 Sep 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Postal donations have been recieved in North Wales and the shops up here are also reporting very good response to the fund raising effort.

will keep everyone uptodate with progress rebolting efforts Plan a good posting late october with details of rebolted routes.

Chck Mark Reeves site for weekly updates/

Big thanks to all donators

Keep the donations coming

cheers
Enty - on 20 Sep 2006
In reply to Slacker-Jon:

Ha, ha, but I'm back! On the sanitised, grid bolted, characterless French Limestone near my house.

The Ent
Fiend - on 20 Sep 2006
In reply to Chris Parkin:

> Keep the donations coming

Done (me) and done (cider nut). Gotta support the slate!
Slacker-Jon on 20 Sep 2006 - 85.133.121.64 whois?
In reply to Chris Parkin:

I was thinking of making a reasonable size donation if you'll put 3 or 4 bolts for a project of mine... Can I call you to discuss it with you? Should I call V12?
mark reeves - on 20 Sep 2006
In reply to Slacker-Jon: Give me an email Jon. There area few projects that are gonna get some new bolts, as well as some that will be described as projects in the guide.

If it is reasonably hassle free you might well be on! So you don't think I am diddling you, just tell me the area, I'll try and guess the project!

Chris Parkin - on 21 Sep 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
The best donation is time! Money is needed for buying the hard-wear but all the installation time is voluntary.
If anyone can dedicate some quality time get in touch with myself, Mark or th lads at V12
NickD - on 21 Sep 2006
This is a great project and I'd like to thanks everyone involved.

Re the bolts on Heading the Shot: they're certainly solid - I know the guy who made the hangers. I thought the obvious way to deal with the narrow holes was to drop a nut down through the hanger and clip that instead. I'd be pretty sad to see Hugh's hangers being scrapped.
mark reeves - on 21 Sep 2006
In reply to Slacker-Jon: With regards to your project Jon. Was it from the top or bottom of the route you mentioned.

I am not sure what the rock is like on that side, I think it might be pretty broken, but will look when I am next up there.
Slacker-Jon on 21 Sep 2006 - 85.133.121.64 whois?
In reply to mark reeves:

I'll try to give you a ring tomorrow - I got your number from V12. I'll explain exactly where they need to be... It should be quite obvious. Thanks!
mark reeves - on 23 Sep 2006
In reply to Slacker-Jon: Hi Jon I think you tried to phone me is your number 0113 etc...? If so I got hold of your house mate tonight. I will be in the quarries when `i recover fron tonight
mark reeves - on 23 Sep 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I was out again today rebolting round german school girl. I finally manage to remove an old bolt. The bolts I removed were 'good' for the quarries the person who placed them had sealed them with araldite, meaning that the thread wasn't corroded.

There size though is simply shocking, if you visit the www.groundupclimbing the top news item has a picture of the old bolt vs the new bolts. The are twice the diameter and double the length.

I shuddered when I saw it, thinking of the lobs I had taken onto these 'toys'.
NickD - on 24 Sep 2006
Mark, will you be updating this thread when you finish a route? It's hard to keep my guide up-to-date!
mark reeves - on 24 Sep 2006
In reply to NickD: you need to visit my website. it is the most up to date place for info. I will up date there as and when I make it to the quarries.

There is a link in the news item.
Michael Ryan - on 24 Sep 2006
NickD - on 25 Sep 2006
Yes I know about the site (very nice btw, good photos), but it's easier for me to bookmark this thread and see when it's been bumped. Just being lazy!
mark reeves - on 25 Sep 2006
In reply to NickD: Hi Nick. I have updated the page again. Peter Pan, who's bolts were removed several years back are now back in place making a nice E2, if you move left to the arete at the top bolt. A harder move can take you direct to the lower-off.
NickD - on 26 Sep 2006
Thanks Mark.

My hardest ever lead was an onsite of Watch Me Wallaby, because I had the old guide that described the bolts being in Peter Pan, which is the route I wanted to do. I thought "I'm buggered if I'm falling off this - it's only 5b". Looking forward to doing Peter Pan at last!
mark reeves - on 26 Sep 2006
In reply to NickD: Nick I have been on Rail track Slab today. Re-bolting some old lines and adding lower off where the rock is sound enough at the top. Mad on the metro now sports some safe bolts as does Red Throated Diver.

There are two rotues nearby these that aren't in the guide. Gerboa Racer and Patio Doors of Perception, climbed by Rob Mirfin and friends a few years back.
NickD - on 28 Sep 2006
Awesome - thanks for your hard work Mark.

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