UKC

Alderley Edge Topo

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 willhunt 15 Nov 2006
Calling all cheshire climbers. Any topos for alderley edge out there. If so Id love to see one.
Ta las
 dread-i 15 Nov 2006
In reply to willhunt:
Oddly enough I was there on Sunday, just checking things out though. It all looks very green. There is a soft sandstone base with a softish gritstone cap on top. So some of it would be OK, though it would be a bit tricky to lead in places.

I did chat to 2 lads on BMXs who had a rope, harness and a couple of quickdraws, but not really much else. They had their rope tied around a tree, as if they were going to ab down, but from what I could see they had no belay device.

I imagine that you probably dont want to go there on a weekend, as you would be pesterd by kids/ families or scallies. Probably good for summer bouldering away from the heat but that is about it.
 billy.granty 15 Nov 2006
In reply to willhunt: if your desparate there is some bouldering to be had on softish rock with small pockets. doubt youll find any routes unless theres some secret quarry with really tough rock lurking somewhere.

its good to have a look about and if you dont want to be driving miles for gritstone it could make a good training venue in the summer but itll be damp as anything at the moment.
OP willhunt 15 Nov 2006
In reply to billy.granty: righty. Not so much looking for routes but is bouldering/highballing possible?
 billy.granty 15 Nov 2006
In reply to willhunt: you might boulder if youre lucky but dont expect anything of any great quality or climbing in any volume. drive 1/2 an hour further towards the roaches. thats what i do and i live less than a 5 minute drive from the edge.
 ampfryer 15 Nov 2006
In reply to billy.granty:
> (In reply to willhunt) unless theres some secret quarry
>
> LOL... the edge itself isn't too good - the bunters are decidedly loose! - there are a couple of quarrys with some bouldering...about 2*...One..turn immediately left past the pub...and almost fall in it.

 thekirkz 16 Nov 2006
In reply to willhunt: Do you mean the quarry next to Wizard Inn? Tried bouldering there this summer during the heatwave. The long wall leading to the cave is spoilt by a large ledge at chest height, meaning bouldering starts 6ft up. The aretes and corners to the right look alright, but the landings are very slopey and the rock is covered in moss and it'd be one heck of a cleanup operation. Traversing the quarry is the best bet (it's difficult). The weirdest things there are the homemade climbing holds to be found on the wall with the overhanging arete. You don't see that everday...
Yorkspud 16 Nov 2006
In reply to thekirkz:

Also have to remember that the quarries and mines are part of a SSSI and Natural England, should they notice, could be unhappy about cleaning operations.
 LMB 16 Nov 2006
In reply to Yorkspud: Glad you brought this up. I emailed the National Trust to ask their permission (if you like) to climb or clean routes. This was what they said:
You may be aware that Alderley Edge is one of the most significant archaeological sites of its type in the country. The main archaeological interest is related to the 4000 year history of copper mining.Unfortunately due to the extremely sensitive nature of much of the archaeology at Alderley Edge, the mines forming an essential part of the resource, we would rather people do not climb and risk damaging the extremely fragile mining evidence which still remains.
The trust does allow climbing at certain properties but only under licensed arrangements whereby the licencee needs to agree to certain conditions relating to health and safety, ecology, best practice, local conditions etc.
I appreciate the fact that you have taken the trouble to contact us with regard to this matter, it is unfortunately the case that not everyone who wishes to climb does so and I'm afraid also the case that we have experienced serious accidents in the past involving unauthorised climbing on Trust land. I hope you appreciate the need to regulate such a potentially dangerous activity.
stan 17 Nov 2006
In reply to LMB:

Interesting reply. As a un experienced climber , does this mean then that you cannot climb anywhere you would like ? Also,from the reply above it clearly appears that National Trust are very concerned about lawsuits filed against them with regards of climbers having an accident on their land. Surely this would never stand in court ?? Is there any evidence that it has happended succesfully in the past ?
Only other question remaining is: If you cannot climb anywhere you like - how will you know where you can and where you cannot ?
 thekirkz 17 Nov 2006
In reply to stan: A good place to start is here http://www.climbingcrags.co.uk

From what I understand the NT usually allow climbing unless there are reasons such as the quarry being of historical importance (and falling to bits).

In gereral, if you ever have to scale a 6ft barbed wire fence only to be confronted with a farmer, his shotgun and attack dog, you probably can't climb there.

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