UKC

Best route on Almscliff

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 jkarran 30 Nov 2006
Ok... I'll get the "yawn, another boring, limited grit list thread" out of the way to start with to save some typing.

Right... What's the best route on Almscliff? I'll allow best you've done and best looking line.

Done: Black Wall Eliminate - great aspect, great climbing
Line: The Wall of Horrors

jk
 MeMeMe 30 Nov 2006
In reply to jkarran:

Done: Overhanging groove - not that technically difficult (compared to others at Almscliff at the same grade) but lovely climbing and has nice exposed/run-out feeling at the top.

Line: Western Front - The obvious but much harder line up the face with Great Western.

Also Wall of Horrors but didn't want to repeat you.
OP jkarran 30 Nov 2006
In reply to MeMeMe:

It was a tough call between OHG and BWE for the best I'd done, it was the view over the viaduct that swung it for me.

jk
 SiWood 30 Nov 2006
In reply to jkarran:

Always enjoy Z climb eliminate for the nice moves low down and the variety once in the wider crack.

As for best looking line has to be OHG for me.

Mind you does anyone do routes at Almscliff anymore - seems more and more a rarity (yet there are always 50 boulderers in situ)
 Simon Caldwell 30 Nov 2006
In reply to jkarran:
<Bob>
The best route at Almscliff is the path back to the car
</Bob>

Done: Parson's Chimney
Line: Frankland's Green Crack

There are probably some better looking lines on routes that are too hard for me to ever contemplate climbing, but I never bother looking at those


 SiWood 30 Nov 2006
In reply to Simon Caldwell:

Franklands green crack - exactly what it says on the tin !!
 Rich Guest 30 Nov 2006
In reply to jkarran:

Best route done : Fluted Columns

Best looking line : Fluted Columns


Seriously!
 ste_d 30 Nov 2006
In reply to jkarran:

best route?

that walk back to the car through the cow dung
 2pints 30 Nov 2006
In reply to Rich150606:

Ditto

Or maybe Birds Nest Crack. a lovely little line
 SiWood 30 Nov 2006
In reply to Rich150606:

As in the much used line.....How was your ascent of El Cap ?? Good, but not as good as Fluted columns at Almscliff.

(You had to be there really... I will get me fleece)

S
 Simon Caldwell 30 Nov 2006
In reply to ste_d:
beat you to it by about 4 hours
 Kid Spatula 30 Nov 2006
I really like Pothole Direct and Stomach Traverse, I have no idea why as the former has, at my standard, an incredibly strenuos start, and the latter just hurts.

I really like the 2 VS offwidths on the left of the Rift as well.

Maybe I like pain?
 Kid Spatula 30 Nov 2006
Shothole Direct even.
 andi turner 30 Nov 2006
In reply to jkarran:

Any of the big E3's too, Wall of Horrors, Western Front and the Big Greeney. All sweet.

Central Climb and Z Climb Eliminate don't have a bad move between them.

Black Eliminate, quality varied climbing; Fluted Columns, yes it really is good; The Gypsy is definitive highball.

Best however is probably Demon Wall, it's perfectly formed.
 Kid Spatula 30 Nov 2006
I think I do something wrong on Fluted Columns. As I find gaining the second break nails. I end up having to do a very sketchy mantel/rock over. Maybe I suck?

This is despite the fact I am comfortable at VS/HVS.
 Simon Caldwell 30 Nov 2006
In reply to Kid Spatula:
Most people wander from left to right and back again at will, in order to find the easiest/best protected way up. If you go straight up the middle then it's harder, bolder, and better. Gaining the second break becomes the crux, probably only about (H)S though; at this point, most go to the left edge where it is much easier.

I prefer Fluted Crack
 Kid Spatula 30 Nov 2006
Bizarrely I find Fluted Crack easier!
 Paul Clarke 30 Nov 2006
In reply to jkarran:

What about Western Front combined with Grand Illusion?
Or Great Western with the Five Star Finish?
Or Demon Wall
Or All Quiet
Or OG
Or All Our Yesterdays

Or.......

Paul
 andi turner 30 Nov 2006
In reply to Kid Spatula:

Go all the way to the left and you'll find an undercut, this makes the next move up much more amenable. HTH.

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