I'me learning Spanish so it was good practive for me. Some of it doesn't make sense but it's the best I could manage given my limited time. Enjoy....
9a+ without pressure...
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And with a hangover. Edu Marin arrived in Siurara to enjoy a month of holidays, without pressure, and to relax from too much competition. Perhaps it was the key...
30th Nov, and it's night time at Siurana. Beers at the campsite, time to celebrate one of the most desired link-ups on the (Iberian) peninsula; especially after the siege that La Rambla has undergone over recent days, thanks to Hirayama, Sharma, Andrada... and also by Edu Marin of course, who managed it a few hours ago, hungover, and the first repeat of the route. As such... a second consecutive night of beering, and with good reason.
Q: Drunk, Edu?
A: We're drinking a beer...
Q: Who's belayed you on the route?
A: So I was belayed by Gerard Rull, and also Carlos and David Brasco, and a japonese friend of Yuji... they have been totally crazy.
Q: What is your impression of the route?
A: Incredible! I found the overhang straightforward enough, but when I realized that I had reached the crux (two-fingered) pocket I was bewildered. Suddenly all the world started shouting and I reacted, leaving the pocket really nervous...almost falling. Afterwards I reached a little rest that's on the right, before the chains, my mouth was dry and my heart going "tucu-tucu-tucu", and at the end I flung myself upwards, super tense...(?)....and reached the belay.
Q: What has it meant to you to do such a mythical route, one that hard climbers, such as Yuji or Chris, have taken so much time trying it?
A: It is a dream for me to do La Rambla, and finally the day has arrived that I complete it, great. It's true that it has been pretty quick, it didn't wait for me (?), it has surprised me also; I still can't really believe that I have linked it...very happy.
A: For you, what has been the hardest thing of La Rambla, the crux sequence?
Q: If do the overhang comfortably you can get the sequence right to reach the pocket. But the pocket sequence (where Ramon (Julian) fell so much) didn't cost me as much - I only fell once or twice from there. Also, I knew that I needed the psycological part, because Dani (Andrada) fell after reaching the pocket and I understand that perfectly - your heart beats like crazy. You know that you have practically done it, but you still have a few little mini-cruxes left, and your head can give you a bad time.
The crux this: if you do the route at 'just the right the level', it's very complicated, because there are some 'luck' moves, and also the conditions are important. But if your level is slightly above what's required then it's more attainable. Because you arrive at the pocket more psyched-up, less tense, and you have more options to sort yourself out at the pocket. It's a really 'lucky' move, launching yourself to a small pocket...
Q: Does This link-up demonstrate that competition [climbing] and high [grades] on rock aren't contradictory?
A: I think it's the other way around. The climber who dedicates himself to competition has little time to climb on rock, and the little time that he does free up, like in my case, he wants to dedicate himself to relaxing, and be cool, and disconnect a little bit - the problem is that you don't stay strong. There's lots of comps, lots of training...but okay, if you maintain the high standard on real-rock, and you do it well, you can go and do some some good link-ups...
Q: How many goes have you given it in total?
A: Not many, eh? Think that I managed it within a month of practice.
Q: You worked out the route in one month?!
A: Yes.
Q: ANd the night before, drinking with Yuji?
A:Yes, because he was going to Japan. I had woken up with a migraine, a bit like now...crap.
Q: Lost of beer last night?
A: Beer and wine...
Q: And normally you don't drink?
A: Of course, but it's fine. Later I went to El Pati really calm, because it was not very good. I messed around with La Rambla, and it didn't look good to me, I rested for an hour, then returned to try.... and linked it.
Q: You staying many days en Siurana?
A: Yes, yes...I've just arrived. I put aside one month of holidays that I wanted dedicate to trying La Rambla, but the truth is I've just arrived.
Q: YOu came here on holidays...!?
A: Yes...because I was burned out, because this year has been hard. Many competitions, because it's the first year that I have done the whole World Cup circuit, and also the Spanish Cup, and I've ended up tired. I came to try La Rambla, but also to have a good time, without any type of pressure, because I've already had lots of that this year with comps, so I came to enjoy myself. Perhaps that has been the key.
A: And with a month ahead of you. You now don't have an objective...?
Q: Already...perhaps Chilam Balam, or I'll go trying something around here. There's plenty of hard enough routes in Siurana.
