UKC

Hi All,
Hope you all had a good Christmas, and are ready for a new year full of climbing.

I was watching the Set In Stone film, very good viewing, over the Christmas period.

During the film it mentions that Dave Birkett had a huge ape index. I was wondering what is an ape index, how do you measure it and knowing it how would it help my climbing.

Thanks
Andrew

In reply to woodsman:

It is your wingspan minus your height.

In reply to woodsman:

measure your height then measure your arm span....the over/under in inches is your ape index.

i am exactly 0

In reply to woodsman:


Knowing what it is isn't going to help your climbing but is generally considered that if it is postive i.e. +2 inches this is beneficial for climbing.

In reply to Simon22:

yeah knowing what it is is no reason to do anything differently or stop trying.

In reply to Simon22:

What specific training should I do to improve mine?
I.e. what do I need to do to get those two extra inches?

In reply to JLS:


Rack your arms 'till they're 2" longer Or... my personal favourite, strap yourself tightly into a rallycar and get your spine battered about utill you're 2" shorter.

Neither help your climbing but both improve ape index. Result!

jk

In reply to JLS:


Try a medieval torture rack to lengthen your arms, or chop 12 inches off your legs.............

In reply to JLS:
Kneel down, or stand in a hole.

In reply to grahamt:

>"Kneel down"

Need I fear getting more than two inches if I kneel down? And isn't kneeling poor style anyway?

In reply to Simon22:

but anyone at any height can have a +2 ins ape index, so it is a fallacy that being able to reach further than you can stand is beneficial.

In reply to JLS:

It's only considered poor style because it gives you an artificial boost in ones ape index, which (of course) makes for a better climber

In reply to anthonyecc:


A positive index is better than a negative index whatever your height.

In reply to Simon22:
I've got a negative ape index, should I give up climbing?

Ade

In reply to woodsman: mine is 6 cm. does this make me a monkey?

In reply to philo:

No, but you will likely be a disappointment with the ladies.

In reply to soveda@work:


No, so do I and I am the best climber on our street.........

In reply to philo:

no

mine's 25cm

In reply to JLS: Don't stand on your tip toes!

In reply to woodsman: My ape index is 2 inches.

Iam 5"6 and have arm span of 5"8. Ima fully grown.

I wondered why i never get any girls.

In reply to IanJackson: I once worked with a girl who complained to me (I'm 6') "Why are all the nice looking men short?"

In reply to Ian Hill:
Freak!

In reply to Richard Bradley: That is a very good point sir!

In reply to IanJackson:


If your taste in women is as bad as your taste in crags i'm surprised it's any problem at all. Whitestone Cliffe, are you for real!?

In reply to Steve Ramsden: I like my women A bit loose and very wild, and never frightened to pump me out!

In reply to IanJackson: Mine is currently almost 2", but as I'm getting older won't I shrink so it should be improving any time. Icidentlt Gersaldine is very short and she has negative ape index, and she's 52 and can still lead London Wall, so I guess teres no real excuse, or substitue for training.

In reply to Steve Ramsden: Just looking through your very impressive logbook. And couldn't see one Whitestone entry!

I hope you didnt just Judge Whitestone, and keep walking on by. Everyone needs to go to Whitestone once in there life. There's a very good pub just above Sutton Bank to retreat too as well. Try Nightw*tch and Central Crack, on a sunny day, before you Dam it to hell.

Its in the middle of a nature reserve. The smells and sounds of Whitestone in summer can be compared to nothing on the moors. No queuing for routes ever. I have never once meet another climber at Whitestone. Its true bliss!

Compared to the others local crags. No, hang on there's nothing to compare!

Iam Sure Mr Caldwell will stick up for me!

Ian

In reply to Al Evans: Nope i Fully agree. But it can be a pain sometimes.

In reply to woodsman: +0.5 inch. Lets rock!

In reply to IanJackson:
I'll stick up for you

Most people who damn Whitestone have never been there. Most people who go there once, will return for more.
There is some loose rock, sure, but far less (on the main areas of the crag) than at places like Horseshoe Quarry, or Robin Proctor's Scar (</shudder>), where people queue up to be showered with bits of crag.
Whitestonecliffe is about as close as you can get to a proper mountain experience while on a (nearly) roadside crag.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:

I'm +4 inches but I've got short legs .. is that good or bad?

In reply to JimR: Which bit?

In reply to woodsman:
I get many emails from people promising to give me extra inches. If anyone would like me to forward their name and email address please let me know.

In reply to IanJackson: I have actually climbed at whitestone a few times. Agreed it's got it's positives, probably the main ones being the view and guaranteed seclusion. So though i wouldn't 'damn it to hell' it's far from my favourite crag! The actual climbing isn't so good (even on nightw*tch). The nearby peak scar has marginally better climbing, though not as nicer setting. I assume you love it there too!?

In reply to Steve Ramsden: I love peak scar, but the setting in not as nice. Peak scar does have some roof climbs. and can stay dry in wet weather. I agree i was not impressed with Nightw*tch but other climbs there, which fail to get any attention, would make great climbs with a little clean up.

Countdown Direct and Central Crack are great jamming cracks.

The Skab Direct provides excellent powerful face climbing. finishing in a pleasant crack filled with doggers and chockstones.

The Leash provides a frightening Slab climb, the only gear is an old pipe,from Chris Woodals Sink. The top pitch is rather exciting pulling over one of the last remaining roofs at Whitestone, pulling on to a huge Dogger shaped like a cannon ball, its looks like something out of a climbing wall!

The traverse of Whitestone, Chameleon is a local challege, rarley completed, only by the FA

I have yet to Venture further Left, next summer.

Please dont just take my word for it!

Ian