UKC

Any tips or info gratefully recieved

thaNKS

In reply to billyboy: it's very good. be very careful on the traverse from the notch on the north ridge (good bivi spots) to the start of the route. SOmetimes snow, can be a bit dangerous. sometimes no snow and fine. Take very little, and you'll be up and down in no time. We even left trainers at the bivi, which made the traverse across the snow a bit scary, but meant we carried very little on the route, and were back at the bivi within about 8 hours. hardest bit of the day is probably descending the north ridge. a bit arduous, so a lot to be said (if you have lots of time) for carrying trainers, and going over the top to the hut on the itaslian side, and making the pleasant walk back the next day

enjoy

In reply to GDes: Thanks for the info Ged. What is there in the way of fixed gear at belays etc?
Anyone else?

In reply to billyboy: all belays are bolted. occasional bolt/peg in between

In reply to GDes:

I'd have to disagree with the "take very little" comment. The Badile is prone to some quite "exciting" weather. We were caught in a storm on the North Ridge this summer and two Belgian climbers on the Cassin needed their crampoms and axes to finish the route. We took very little, moved fast and got very, very cold as a result.

In reply to GDes: I'd have to disagree about all belays being bolted unless they have been done since summer 2003. Most belays on the north ridge are bolted. However, the Cassin itself as the odd peg and rely's mainly on nuts/cams. It goes at about HVS 5a ish for the crux and mainly at VS for the most.

We did it in August 2003 when it was very hot and there was no snow around. However, I could imagine it being horrific under bad weather. Read Cassin's account of the first ascent for a 'mare. Two of the five in the party didn't return.

Ben

In reply to BenTiffin: i'm sure i remember there being bolts on the belays. maybe i'm wrong, or they've been removed.

As for taking very little, i'm not talking about doing it in shorts and t shirt. But if the forecasts good, chances are any freak storms wont happen til later, so if you leg it you'll be ok

As to what to take is a personal choice the climber has to make himself, considering weather and ability and many other factors. A decision i will make in June myself on the cassin.

As Ben said, you should read the account of Cassin doing the route. Scary.

Good luck with your plans.

Ian

In reply to IanJackson: Do you know where i can find this account by Cassin?

Thanks

In reply to billyboy: his autobiography

In reply to Doug: The book is called 50 years of alpinism but is quite rare these days due to only one run having been made.

Basically, Cassin's team were joined by two others who later died of exhaustion on the descent in a huge storm.

Ben

In reply to Ben at work: Yes thats the one, i had a quick read of a copy at our club libary. Didnt realise it was rare!

In reply to IanJackson: They were flogging copies in Kirkland books in Kendal a few years ago for £20. I think only one edition was printed. I picked up a copy for £8 in Lancaster about 5 years ago - Idon't think the shop realised what they had.

Ben