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NEW ARTICLE: North Wales Rock.....PUBLISHED!!!!!!

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 Michael Ryan 09 Feb 2007
From: "Simon Panton"
To: "Michael Ryan" <mick@ukclimbing.com>
Subject: Re: from Mick Ryan: at UKClimbing.com: Is it ready?
Date: Fri, 9 Feb 2007 10:58:09 -0000

Mick,

Just spoke to Al. He is picking up the first batch of books in Yeadon at 1.30 and driving straight to Llanberis. We should have them in V12 around 4.30-5.00pm (assuming that road conditions don't deteriorate too badly).

So I guess that means, yes.

I'll put the graded list up on the GU site and send you an url.

How excited am I?!!!!!

Simon


Simon Panton gives us a preview of the now available NORTH WALES ROCK, the first guidebook available from Ground Up.

Includes a competition to win copies of the guide, The North Wales Rock Challenge and where to buy a copy of this guide....the V12 Outdoor elves are at the ready.

Read more in this UKClimbing.com exclusive.... http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=311
 Tyler 09 Feb 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Great news but the link to graded list PDF on the Groundup website does not work.
 gingerdave13 09 Feb 2007
In reply to Tyler: it's an issue with the ground up web site

however, guide looks chuffin fantastic,, it's gonna be one that wish list of mine!
 Tom Briggs 09 Feb 2007
In reply to Tyler:

Let the grading debates begin! Strawberries E6?! Mussel Beach 8a?! Shame they don't seem to have corrected these obvious ones (though Zippy did get Strawbs right in his guide).
Simon Panton 09 Feb 2007
In reply to Tyler: Dodgy link is now fixed.

 Tyler 09 Feb 2007
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:

> Let the grading debates begin!

OK I'll start! Heading the Shot above Shitlegruber? My one E6 and all three potential targets are all now E5. At least Killerkranky and Rimsky are back up.

In case anyone takes me to task I'm aware that graded lists are not to be taken seriously etc. But they are there to start debates like this.


 Tom Briggs 09 Feb 2007
> (In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor)
>
> [...]
>
> OK I'll start! Heading the Shot above Shitlegruber? My one E6 and all three potential targets are all now E5. At least Killerkranky and Rimsky are back up.
>
> In case anyone takes me to task I'm aware that graded lists are not to be taken seriously etc. But they are there to start debates like this.

Funny how Simon has written a whole paragraph about the graded list Some good upgrades though - Magallen's Wall. And I thought it was just me!

Simon Panton 09 Feb 2007
In reply to Tyler: The truth is that we do take graded lists very seriously. There's no shame in a grade debate, it's what it's all about.
Simon Panton 09 Feb 2007
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor: Pete Robins put forward a rather mischievous argument for downgrading Muscle Beach, namely that it would annoy loads of people who have done it as their only 8a!

I decided that was too mean.
 Tyler 09 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:

Phew, I thought Tom and I were the only ones! In which case what the heck is Crimson Cruiser doing up there?! It's not even E5 let alone one all the way up there and then you have the temerity to put Hyndsight in as the easiest E4 after all my lobbying on this site to get it graded E5. Don't even get me started on the relative positions of Memory Lane and Sai Dancing and................!

Simon Panton 09 Feb 2007
In reply to Tyler: That's the spirit, let rip, and don't hold back!
martin k 09 Feb 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: at least they listened and got rid of that dreadful 'wrap around' front cover photo that could have been of any route, anywhere. well done. i still have issues with their description of 'ghosts', but they know this.

well done, lads. what next? (as if i need to ask!)

cheerio
 Ian Patterson 09 Feb 2007
In reply to Tom, UKC News Editor:
> [...]
> Some good upgrades though - Magallen's Wall. And I thought it was just me!

I think we've had this discussion on here before - I agree completely. I did Warpath straight after and I know which I found harder by a long way.



Robert Wilson 09 Feb 2007
In reply to martin k:
Now now Martin, are you stirring the pot about what's next or what should be next?
martin k 09 Feb 2007
In reply to Robert Wilson: whatever can you mean?! (er, yes)
 John2 09 Feb 2007
In reply to martin k: What's Old Holborn doing at the top of the E1s? It used to be HVS for God's sake. Quite serious but not difficult. And SS Special is not the easiest E2 by a long way. There's no way Erosion Groove Direct is easier than Bran Roll or Pull my Daisy either.

The list seems to place too much emphasis on seriousness, even when the climbing is relatively easy.
 Fiend 09 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:

> The truth is that we do take graded lists very seriously. There's no shame in a grade debate, it's what it's all about.

Blimey! I don't know whether that attitude is highly old-fashioned or splendidly futuristic...

PP back to E5? Come on be serious, Malice In Wonderland @ Hodge is at least as scary. It better be back to it's correct grade in the forthcoming Slate guide...

Oh, BTW, congrats, look forward to seeing it in the paper!
 Fiend 09 Feb 2007
In reply to Fiend:

Would just like to say that at the low-mid extremes this doesn't look like it's going to change North Wales' reputation for soft-touches...
martin k 09 Feb 2007
In reply to everyone who has bitten: graded lists are indisputably 100% accurate and must be taken seriously.

cheerio
shadrachyrci 09 Feb 2007

You rse A ole H

TTFN
 jethro kiernan 09 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton: can you get a copy to Sue still offshore back next week. Good effort
 Adam Long 09 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:

Get in, Crow the hardest E5, Vulture the hardest E4. Do I see a pattern here? Give me loose rock over getting pumped any day.

Look forward to seeing it. Were any dropped round sheff or have they all been shipped to you first?
 richard kirby 10 Feb 2007
In reply to Tyler:

Good to see the Camel top end E4. Hugh may be dissappointed with Ormuzd not jumping to E5. Must be hard for "shire" folk.
 Al Evans 10 Feb 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Come on Mick, why havent I won the quiz, all the knowledge of ages failed you mean
Simon Panton 10 Feb 2007
In reply to Al Evans: Who did you send your entry to? I didn't receive it.

Thus far I've had quite a few incorrect entries and one correct entry. I won't say who it is yet.

Simon Panton 10 Feb 2007
In reply to richard kirby: Camel is a proper battle; good job the gear is good!
 richard kirby 10 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:

Can't say I remember the gear being good /bad, just wanted to get up it fast, hoyin' gear out as quick as possible....and I only seconded it !! I recall it being a real thrutch and asking for a tigt-ish rope a lot, never quite sure whether to back and foot or climb it face on. Tough!
 Veronica 10 Feb 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

That's the funniest graded list I've ever seen! Nice one ha ha ha!
Simon Panton 10 Feb 2007
In reply to Veronica: We aim to please Mike. Glad it tickled your funny bone.
 dr evil 10 Feb 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Im confused, maybe the graded list applies to bouldering grades?
Simon Panton 10 Feb 2007
In reply to dr evil: C'mon Grant, doesn't it make you feel homesick for Wales?
Simon Panton 10 Feb 2007
In reply to jethro kiernan: Consider it done.
Simon Panton 10 Feb 2007
In reply to Adam L: The first batch was brought straight to Llanberis by Al last night. Cordee will have the rest next week.
 dr evil 10 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:
Hiraeth? I suppose so! Good luck with the guide BTW can I doss on your floor?
Simon Panton 10 Feb 2007
In reply to dr evil: Of course, although I'll be handing out space allotments on a first-come-first-served basis - I've got a sneaking feeling that this year I'll be getting more than the usual number of house guests.

Call it a hunch.
 whispering nic 11 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:
Sucked in...

Conan and Strawbs used to define E7
Atomic HR and King Wad used to define E6
Capital P E3?! trying to kill people?
Yob route only HVS - clearly E2 5b...

on the other hand

Kubla Khan has to be the easiest E4 ever

The most inspiring thing was that I've done nowt in N Wales for the last 15 years but there's a whole bunch of routes I've not done/ heard of - bring on summer!
 Si dH 11 Feb 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Not surprised to se Hangover top of the E1 list. The position high up in the E2 list for Left Wall puts me off attmpting it slightly...need to get stronger.

I think Diagonal should be higher up the HVS list (assuming you do the first pitch as described in the PW book, and not the lower traverse), and I would have put Kaisergebirge Wall and Scrtach Arete lower. And Mur y Niwl - HVS? Sabre Cut I think should be much higher up the VS list (significantly closer to HVS than Mur y Niwl!) Still, I agree with everything else there that I've done

Its fun seeing new lists
 Si dH 11 Feb 2007
In reply to Si dH:
oh and Noahs warning should be higher too, theres not much difference between it and CG.
Simon Panton 11 Feb 2007
In reply to Si dH: Mur y Niwl has got a committing crux section. You wouldn't really want to fall off at this point. Plus the route is very sustained; basically, there's hard climbing all the way.

Hangover very nearly became E2. I doubt I would've heard many complaints had that been the outcome.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 11 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:

Mu y Niwl - there used to be a 'gargoyle' flake on the crux pitch that you could flick the rope over to protect the second on the traverse - might even have been mentioned in the guidebook description. My mate at the time, Graham Arnold, slipped the start of the pitch, he didn't actually fall off but the rope came tight, the gargoyle came loose and just missed him - looks like no-one had ever actually weighted it before!


Chris
Anonymous 12 Feb 2007
In reply to Si dH:

Mur y Niwl at HVS, that one puzzled me too. My initial comment was that its no more HVS than Gob is, but since Gob gets listed as a "meaty HVS" in Climber this month (despite being three VS pitches on top of each other)............

Those first pitches of Diagonal were quite tricky too.

AJM at home
Anonymous 12 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:

Which pitch did you think was the crux? Theyre all 4c aren't they, and I can't remember feeling that any one stood out as being a lot harder...........

AJM at home
Simon Panton 12 Feb 2007
In reply to Anonymous: I'm talking about the 2nd pitch. I reckon this has got a 5a move on it, and if you blow it you're going to take a big swing.
 Postmanpat 12 Feb 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Yonks since I did Helsinki Wall but did something fall off t make it E1 ?
 Morgan Woods 12 Feb 2007
In reply to Si dH:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
> The position high up in the E2 list for Left Wall puts me off attmpting it slightly...need to get stronger.
>
>
don't let that worry you....and it's more of a stamina rather than strength game.
 steve taylor 12 Feb 2007
In reply to Postmanpat:

Helsinki Wall was my first experience of HVS. Managed it with a struggle, but there is no way it's E1.
Anonymous 12 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:

Fair enough. I didn't lead that one. I remember my partner taking a while working out where the traverse went (he tried higher up first as far as I remember), but once he got the line it seemed to go okay, and I don't remember feeling hard done at VS 4c by when I followed him across.

AJM

In reply to Simon Panton:
> (In reply to Si dH) Mur y Niwl has got a committing crux section. You wouldn't really want to fall off at this point. Plus the route is very sustained; basically, there's hard climbing all the way.

Do you mean the diagonal traverse crack - I think there's a lot of confusion here - and the guide book descriptions don't help. There is a lower, easier, not-so-obvious, traverse that fits in with some of the descriptions, but you have to drop down slightly.
 Philip 12 Feb 2007
Any idea how much of the profits from the book goes to access funds, environmental work, re-equipping (where relevant)?
martin k 12 Feb 2007
In reply to any: has anyone started ranting yet about left wall being up graded to E3?

cheerio
V12 Outdoor 12 Feb 2007
In reply to martin k: and why?
Simon Panton 12 Feb 2007
In reply to Philip: Well, the book includes a free BMC advert for the RAD website, and a number of the people involved with Ground Up have played a significant role in the current re-equipping campaign. This has been mostly focussed thus far on the slate quarries, but there are plans to move on to the Limestone crags. I was talking with Chris Parkin a few days ago about forming an official re-equipping group for all of the N wales bolted crags.

As for a specific amount of cash to support access/environment work, I haven't haven't really thought about that yet. Once we've paid off our not inconsiderable debts and got ourselves in a more comfortable position we'll give it some thought.

On a personal level I have been involved with access negotiations in N Wales for many years. I also sat on the BMC Access and Conservation group for a while. It's not all about money, getting involved in groups such as NWCAG is just as important. And, as Alan James has pointed out on numerous occasions on here it is a little unfair to focus on guidebook producers as sole financers of such work, when there are plenty of bigger businesses operating in the outdoor sector.
Simon Panton 12 Feb 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Still only got one correct entry to the competition. Come on folks, give it a pop.
 Ian McNeill 12 Feb 2007
In reply to martin k:

have you found it hard ?

 steve taylor 12 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:

I take it that I'm not a winner - who was it with the correct entry?
Simon Panton 12 Feb 2007
In reply to steve taylor: It occurred to me that if I said who the correct entry was from, they could just tell their mates to send in an identical entry.

So, Steve, you might be the one, but then again you might not.

Today I received another correct entry; just one left to go now.
Simon Panton 13 Feb 2007
In reply to steve taylor: Okay Steve, I can put you out of your misery...you...did...not...win...the lottery (I think).

Instead, you were one of the North Wales Rock competition winners!

Patricia Novelli and Mark Lloyd also got through with 5 correct answers:

1. In the 1980s Phil Davidson appeared on a poster soloing a famous Welsh route. What was it and what year did he first solo it? (Right Wall,1982)

2. What year did Ron James first publish his groundbreaking selected guide, Rock Climbing in Wales? (1970)

3. What is the url for Mayfair Wall on the BMC Regional Access Database? (http://www.climbingcrags.co.uk/ViewCrag.aspx?id=830)

4. What grade did Peter Harding originally give his route Spectre on Clogwyn y Grochan? (Exceptionally Severe)

5. Name either of the English/Welsh team that did the first ascent of what was subsequently named Katana on Holyhead Mountain? One now lives in France and the other is the new secretary of the BMC Wales/Cymru area committee. (John Redhead, Keith Robertson)

Commiserations to everybody else who sent in entries. Most of you only got one question wrong. Ain't life cruel.



 Alun 13 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:
Rats! I couldn't remember or find anything to do with Harding's original grade, so I guessed VS. Woe is me!

I'll have to go and buy the thing now!
 steve taylor 13 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:

Get In!!!

Cheers Simon.
 Mark Lloyd 13 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:
Cheers Simon, I'll buy you a pint if I see you in the pub.
 The sharp end 13 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:

Thanks Simon!!

Pat

 Wilbur 13 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:

Just been reading mine this morning - frickin amazing. well done.

shld keep me busy during my 10 days there in April...
Simon Panton 14 Feb 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Forgot to explain the answer to the last question. This was of course a trick question, as the 1990 CC Gogarth guide gives incorrect historical details.

What happened was, in 1982 JR and Keith had been running around climbing lots of hard routes, and they stopped off at Holyhead Mountain one day and decided to nip up the obvious diagonal crack line. They called this route Penny and graded it E2, as it felt considerably easier than the E6s they had been thrashing about on elsewhere. When Mike Gresham came to write up this section of the guide around 86/87 he took their vague description to mean the next crack line to the right, reasoning that they couldn't have done the line of Katana as this was clearly much harder than the quoted E2 grade.

Katana was subsequently claimed by another team.

All very obscure and impossible to google, which is why I gave the extra clues.

So now you know.
 Tyler 14 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:

Good bit of trivia that! But isn't Penny also credited as a Mike Gresham oute in the Gogarth guide. Don't have it to hand so can't check?
 The sharp end 14 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:

I am slightly biased living near the beautiful Welsh borders, but even when I lived "down South" I have always been a huge fan of climbing in Wales. So when I got the new North Wales Rock guidebook by the Ground Up team today I was pretty keen to explore it.

And my have I not been disappointed. Simply, first things first, it looks great! Photography and graphics: sleek, modern and stunning without being ott. It has a great practical “feel” being just the perfect size to fit in my top pocket of my rucksack. The maps, topos and route descriptions are very clear and concise. I doubt there will be any disgruntled folk with regards to the selection of climbs, grading etc as it looks incredibly well researched from a team that knows the crags like the back of their hands.

On an initial count – there are at least 90 different crags listed split into 5 geographical locations. Whatever takes your fancy; bouldering, sport, trad, sea-cliffs, mountain epics – you name it; it is all there for you to choose from.

I shall be reading the book back to front in the next few days and am itching to go out and try some new routes. Pictures on pages 376-77 and 527 simply say to me: "Wow - I wanna climb there!"

In a nutshell – a quality production for a world class climbing area!
 steve taylor 15 Feb 2007
In reply to Simon Panton:

Cheers Simon - got my "winners" guide in the post this morning.

I have to say it is a wonder - you have achieved something pretty special. As a guide author myself, I really should try not to look at any other guides as it only depresses me that:

a) seeing guides started after mine have come to print before mine (which was the case for N Wales Bouldering too)
b) they look soooo nice!

However, I'm heartened to see that I've done the top routes in the graded list in all grades up to E3 (almost) and that you have fitted 540 pages into a single binding, which would appear to be pretty strong.

A fine effort Simon

Cheers

Steve
pasbury 15 Feb 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Excellent stuff.
My balls bigger than your balls - no way!
Simon Panton 16 Feb 2007
In reply to Tyler: Mike Gresham was putting up quite a lot of new routes around this time, but he is not credited with Penny. It just says: 1982 Summer, Penny, J M Redhead, K Robertson

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