UKC

Hello,

this is for the guys who've been climbing in Comb Gully this Saturday, especially to the one I very nearly knocked down when I fell. I hope you got up the route OK after that and also safely back down. I don't know how scary it looked to you, but I'm still feeling rubbish now. I'm really sorry for being such a muppet.

Oh and if you read this and you're the team that climbed above us, let me know how I can get the gear you left in place back to you.

Take care,
David

In reply to dsiska:

sounds like an eventful route/queue...

In reply to dsiska:
Oh sorry, wrong thread. I thought this was where you booked a place in the queue for Comb.

In reply to dsiska:

There's been all sorts of posts about falls, accidents etc. I reckon one of the best ways to reduce some types of accidents is to be upfront and open when we have falls, near misses etc. With this in mind, how did you fall? And why do you feel rubbish (just hope its not because other climbers where clearly too close to you)?

Ta, Mick

In reply to dsiska:

maybe people should start taking a guidebook t the ben - just to inform them that there are other routes that can be climbed, not just those already with climbers on them.

people need to wake up a bit and assess their route choice before commiting to an already busy route.

In reply to dsiska:

If you choose to follow folk up routes you have to take what's thrown at you, literally in this case.

Anyone can fall off. What is perhaps of greater concern is that you appear to have needed other parties to place gear for you. Or perhaps I misread that bit?

In reply to Jamie B.:
How do you know the OP didn't top out after the fall and on the way simple picked uip some gear the party ahead left behind?

In reply to Jamie B.:

Maybe they were climbing with a disposable, biodegradable rack?

In reply to mick taylor:
We had a belay about 15 meters below the end of the route. I got there after seconding the one steep pitch of the gully. There's been really annoying spindrift so while climbing you couldn't really look up and see where you're going. I had terrible hot aches when I got to the belay, I was tired and I wanted to get to the top ASAP. I grabbed some gear and set of. First I was going up nice neve. I din't place any gear - there was no choice. Unfortunaly that led to a bit of a cornice. There was less of a cornice on the right and so I started moving there. That meant kicking steps in very steep powder (perhaps 70 degrees slope). Just as I was getting to the top the whole thing went. I fell with it, past the belay and back on the steep bit. I missed the guy from the team behind us by only few inches. That I haven't knocked him of was sheer luck. That the belay held was another piece of sheer luck (and that's why I fell rubbish). So there, that's how I fell.

In reply to Jamie B.:
No, no one was placing gear for us . The second from the team above us didn't seem to be able to get that piece of their gear. So I got asked if I could retrieve it for them.

In reply to dsiska:

Apologies for the misunderstanding. Glad you're okay; I'm sure that you'll ultimately be stronger and wiser for the experience.

In reply to dsiska: Thats winter climbing for you. Hope you're OK.

In reply to dsiska:
Yes the last belay on comb gully is a snow one if you haven't got 60 metre ropes isn't it?

When I did it a few weeks ago there was no cornice.

In reply to dsiska:

Thanks for your reply.

Sounds more like you triggered a wee avalanche/slide than a fall. And your belay holding - you must have done something right. Gald you're alright also.

Having mainly ice-fall climbed for the last good few years, events like this remind me of how serious climbing in Scotland is compared to most ice-fall venues. As far as I'm concerned, the skills and fitness levels needed to climbed safely and 'enjoyably' in Scotland can make Scotiish grade 4's seem overall harder than many WI4's.

Ta, Mick

In reply to CurlyStevo:

i thought the belay at the top of the long main pitch was a rusty bolt and nut on the left side. then there is a shorter (20m) pitch up the crux to a belay at the rocks on the left where there is an in situ peg and some nut placements - I don`t remember any `snow belays`

In reply to joe king:
Sorry I'm getting confused with another route.

In reply to mick taylor:


Exactly my thoughts on Saturday, halfway up Andromeda in Coire an Lochain, looking in vain for a solid belay.
Having had 9 days in Rjukan, I've got used to having two 20 cm ice-screws buried to the hilt in bombproof blue ice! And getting over the cornice on insecure sugar snow was a draining experience, even to second (Steve led that one, and reckoned he was making harder tech moves than anything he did on El Cap!)

It was a fantastic day out, testing us more than anything we've done to date. Finishing that route in one piece - and seeing the amazing views across the plateau - is the highlight of my season so far.

In reply to joe king:
The last belay was a peg on the right and a dodgy ice screw. Thankfully the peg wasn't that rusty.

In reply to dsiska: Its seems you did every right really. You got home. You didn't kill/harm anyone. You built a super belay. You have a great belayer. You didn't just climb past gear, because it looked easy, and iam sure the falling bit could not of been avoided.

A good experience, what we all cant walk away from.

Ian.

In reply to dsiska:
Small avalanche? I was over on The Cascade a 100m or so to the left at 4pm ish. There was a hugh avalanche coming down and 3 climbers were helicoptered out by the MRT. It wasn't you, was it?

In reply to Skinny Kin:
I hope not. I wouldn't think it was that was me, because I heard the helicopter just after my fall and that would have been a bit too quick. Also we met people in A&E in Fort William who we've been avalanched on the Ben and airlifted of, but they said that was in number 3 gully.

In reply to dsiska:
Hi
That was me you fell past! Like people say, climb below people and you take what ever comes down so no need to apologise. And yes, falling 50m (assume you came all the way from the cornice?) looked pretty scary, glad you're ok - also glad you missed me...

Good little route though!

cheers
Danny